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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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When you bleed the system you have to wait till the fans turn on and off and the thermostat to open before you put the radiator cap back on. So you still have to do it manually.
 
Thanks for the replys!

Well I dunno if it bleeds by itself or not but I went ahead and manually did that. Took a quick ride and was still doing the same thing!!

I replaced the thermostat with a 180 degree one from AUTOZONE. I am still having overheating issues, and now my A/C fan will not turn on!!

I am getting so frustrated with this, but do not want to quit bcuz this is part of having a DSM!

Any idea's on the overheating or the fans?

Thanks guys!
 
Ok so after my driver side fan(A/C FAN) stopped working I went and started checking fuses and what not, the 30a fuse was blown out on the rad fan so I replaced that and the pass side(cooling fan) started to work. I checked all wires from the A/C fan but cannot find out why it is not turning on.

I can control the passenger side fan with the A/C switch in the car, I thought the driver side fan was controlled by that switch :confused:

Anyways now that the other fan started to work, I am not overheating anymore, THANK GOD! But I still wanna know wtf is going on with the A/C fan.

I am still gonna run a compression test tomorrow just to be on the safe side.
 
THe relay for the driver's side fan is up above your brake booster in that little box in the corner. Check all the connections in there. The reason you can control your fan with the A/C switch is that when you hit that button both fans should come on. If your driver's side fan is not working then only the passenger's side will come on.
 
THe relay for the driver's side fan is up above your brake booster in that little box in the corner. Check all the connections in there. The reason you can control your fan with the A/C switch is that when you hit that button both fans should come on. If your driver's side fan is not working then only the passenger's side will come on.

Ok that makes sense, I will test/replace the relays in the box later tonight and hopefully that will fix it.

Thanks again for the reply!



Check the fan itself. The fan motor might be toasted.

It better not be seeing how I got that fan 4 days ago, but now that I look at it the two wires coming of the fan are melted right where they connect to the fans motor from the heat of the manifold. I wonder if the the fan got overheated and motor burned out! If its not the relays cant I just hook the wires from the fan up to my battery to ensure the fan still works?

Thanks!
 
Ok that makes sense, I will test/replace the relays in the box later tonight and hopefully that will fix it.

Thanks again for the reply!





It better not be seeing how I got that fan 4 days ago, but now that I look at it the two wires coming of the fan are melted right where they connect to the fans motor from the heat of the manifold. I wonder if the the fan got overheated and motor burned out! If its not the relays cant I just hook the wires from the fan up to my battery to ensure the fan still works?

Thanks!
Yes. You can do that. Just pray that the fan is not toasted or it might be defective. If the wires are melted, just modify the wiring to the fan. Good luck!
 
This will most likely sound odd but it happened to me a while ago in mine I changed(thermostat,water pump,check fan & fuses and since I didnt get no positive results I went on and rebuilt the whole engine since I was planning to do it soon anyways and still had the same problem and at the end of everything it was the damn cooler bottle next to radiator that had a whole in it and was causing all the problem I fixed it up and car was running again like it never had a problem:beatentodeath:
 
So i took the car to the shop..

The car had been overheating and i had already gone through the "Here"s how to fix it" tech post. Well mainly jus some steps. I knew it wasnt my radiator, my hoses, i mixed coolant with water (seemed to work but only temporaly) thermostat (took it off too and it still overheated), or waterpump and since i had noticed some white smoke coming from the muffler i concluded that it was my headgasket..

I was sick a couple of days and didnt want to deal with it so i took it to a shop. So a couple of days go by and i get a call from the shop and this is what they told me.

They checked the headgasket and it was ok.
They did a compression test.
1. 160
2. 160
3. 110
4. 120
Also perfomed a leak down test on the engine and headgasket was holding good.

So basically I'm lost here.

Any help?
 
It could be a blown headgasket or the head is really warped badly. the service limit for compression is 120. bad piston rings will also cause low compression. If you timing is off you will have low compression. If you timing marks are lined up correctly, and you have bad compression the head needs to come off. Im working on a volvo that the block and head were warped and it was leaking at the headgasket but the headgasket looked fine. The block and head are aluminum though.
 
if your radiator fan is not turning on at the right temp, it will cause overheating issue. might be the thermoswitch fan in the rad itself, or the fan motor, or the fuses that supply the power to the motor. have you checked your rad cap too?
 
the service limit for compression is 120.

mgsx98 They did a compression test. 1. 160 2. 160 3. 110 4. 120 [/QUOTE said:
The compression test clearly show something is wrong. And bent valves would be really bad compression, blow head gasket will have about the compression the car is getting. The stock compression is 180.
 
Ok, so I am coming home from work and I did a quick pull from a stop light, I notice my car start to overheat!!!!:mad: I pulled into a parking lot and turned it off, then my coolant light came on, so I put about a half gal of coolant in, keep in my I just topped that b*tch off yesterday.

So I start it up and it starts to sputter at idle, I give it gas and it sputters up till like 2k . But it is not overheating anymore....

I have not had time to get around to the compression test, but I am thinkin my head gasket is on its way out.

What do you guys think?


thanks!
 
have you changed your water pump? i did mine and still overheating i did everyting i could to deal with the coolant and it has to be the H/G. another fun job for me :beatentodeath:
 
I'm pretty sure its not the radiator cap or anything to do with the radiator..

The closest thing i can think of is the head is in a real bad condition and its leaking thus burning.
but i could be wrong. the car itself has over 180k on it.
should i get a new head or get the one i have resurfaced?
 
This will most likely sound odd but it happened to me a while ago in mine I changed(thermostat,water pump,check fan & fuses and since I didnt get no positive results I went on and rebuilt the whole engine since I was planning to do it soon anyways and still had the same problem and at the end of everything it was the damn cooler bottle next to radiator that had a whole in it and was causing all the problem I fixed it up and car was running again like it never had a problem:beatentodeath:

Had that happen too when I bought the car but I didn't replace nearly as much stuff. Hole was in the top and it never drew coolant back in as it cooled down. Would have to top off the coolant every 3 or 4 days or the temps would start to climb. Little RTV fixed it right up.
 
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