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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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hi guys. I installed a new front mount intercooler earlier before this issue with overheating. I have a brand new radiator with upper an lower hoses, new cap, new thermostat and I even rented a pressure testor from autozone and I found out that two of my water lines were leaking. I fixed them but I still have a problem with overheating. I have seemed to control it but I have to have the a/c on so the temp stays under 230. I let the car run without the a/c on tonight and I watched the temp gauge to not overheat the car but when I looked under the hood none of the fans were on. I have an aftermarket faze temp gauge. can I directly wire the fans to turn on when the car is running in order to control my temp? Also when the car starts to get really hot I can smell antifreeze inside the car, like a slight smell...is this bad? Please help I'm really stumped on this one.
 
on my probe i wired my fans to stay on all the time. all you need is a switched power from underneath the hood. in my probe i spliced in a wire from my coil (not the actual coil but the power wire going to it). but any switched power will work. just run that wire to your connector and the run a ground to any metal. it worked for me. and have you checked your heater core? if you are losing fluid even with doing all you did(the hoses,line) your heater core or heater core lines could be bad. well hope this helps:thumb:
 
What kind of FMIC is it? This will help a lot.

- Also check all of the hoses.

- A soft hose can restrict water flow.

- Check the water pump.
If the vanes are worn down from corrosion it will not move enough water.

Maybe it's the fan?
 
When you smell coolant, is it pushing it out of the overflow or anyplace else? Did this start immediately after your front mount install? I would try getting your fans to run all the time, not with the ac though because the heat that is taken out of the air is released right in front of your radiator. You could do it by removing the fan relays and jumping them to run all the time. It will be a four post and I believe it is back left to front right if you are standing in the front of the car. Go for a drive an see what happens.
 
It's an eBay intercooler. It started hapening after I did the install. my radiator broke then I replaced it with a brand new one.I don't know if the fluid is comming out of the reservoir or the heater core becuase I'm driving when it happens. But I haven't seen anyfluid in the passenger area. The warerpump is brand new. I had the stock intercooler on after I did the head job with new valve seals and a new timing belt. But the car didn't overheat with that setup. On the water neck there are only spotsfor two sensors. I took 1 out and I put the aftermather one in there. My stock gauge is still working. What could be re other sensor?
 
It might be the water pump and running the a/c will heat the car up even more. It doesn't help cooling it down.

whenever I run the a/c the cars temp runs cooler. Like without a/c the temp goes to 225 and if I turn it on the temp begins to drop. But if I drive for a long time she gets hotter slowly. It's weird and frustrating. I was think to take out the thermostat and run it like that for a while.
 
What kind of FMIC is it? This will help a lot.

- Also check all of the hoses.

- A soft hose can restrict water flow.

- Check the water pump.
If the vanes are worn down from corrosion it will not move enough water.

Maybe it's the fan?

I have noticed that none of the fans turn on at all unless the a/c is on and then both are on. What temp is the fan supposed to cut in. Is there a sensor?
 
I was getting the CEL for coolant temperature sensor. I replaced the sensor, reset the ecu, no CEL, HOORAY!! I drove it and no issues, felt better matter of fact. When I sat and let it idle for a few minutes it starts to overheat. I noticed the fans were not coming on. I have checked by turning the a/c on and the fans work. I also unplugged the new sensor while the car was running and the fans will come on and run non-stop , thus cooling the car back to normal operating temp until I shut the car off. Is it possible I got a bad sensor or what? I am completely lost. Somebody please help!!

Edit: Further info. The fans came on and worked properly before I swapped the sensor.
 
I was getting the CEL for coolant temperature sensor. I replaced the sensor, reset the ecu, no CEL, HOORAY!! I drove it and no issues, felt better matter of fact. When I sat and let it idle for a few minutes it starts to overheat. I noticed the fans were not coming on. I have checked by turning the a/c on and the fans work. I also unplugged the new sensor while the car was running and the fans will come on and run non-stop , thus cooling the car back to normal operating temp until I shut the car off. Is it possible I got a bad sensor or what? I am completely lost. Somebody please help!!

Edit: Further info. The fans came on and worked properly before I swapped the sensor.


If you have the manual look up Chapter Six under engine electrical. In there it will tell you how to use a mulit-meter to test for a bad sensor.

Where did you get the senor? NAPA or some place like that? Take it out, take it back and tell them it's bad. Get another one, and see if that fixes your overheating problem.



Do you have a logger to read what your coolant temps are? If you log coolant temps, and it says --- or doesn't read it then you still have a bad sensor, or bad connection to the ECU. Since your fans operate based on tempature read at the ECU, via the sensor, they won't come on if the sensor is bad.

You could also need a T-Stat, but start with the sensor. Just take it back, and try a new one, or test it.

You are new here, to make sure you update your profile with what you have done to your car, it'll help us help you.
 
If you have the manual look up Chapter Six under engine electrical. In there it will tell you how to use a mulit-meter to test for a bad sensor.

Where did you get the senor? NAPA or some place like that? Take it out, take it back and tell them it's bad. Get another one, and see if that fixes your overheating problem.



Do you have a logger to read what your coolant temps are? If you log coolant temps, and it says --- or doesn't read it then you still have a bad sensor, or bad connection to the ECU. Since your fans operate based on tempature read at the ECU, via the sensor, they won't come on if the sensor is bad.

You could also need a T-Stat, but start with the sensor. Just take it back, and try a new one, or test it.

You are new here, to make sure you update your profile with what you have done to your car, it'll help us help you.


I got the sensor at Advance. I'm gonna try to return it and see what happens. I don't have a logger so I can't read all those temps and such. Hopefully will in the future. I have two DSMs. This one is the new TSI AWD I got. It is bone freaking stock. The one with all the mods only has a broken door handle ;)
 
If your gauge still works than i'm assuming you took the larger more important of the two sensors out which will most likely give you a check engine light and also probably not trigger the fans to come on. If I had to guess I would say the fans come on around 210deg. I would put this sensor back in and see if that fixes it.
 
Edit!: Problem solved. It came down to the piece of crap GP Sorensen coolant temperature sensor from Advance Auto Parts. I went and got a Duralast from Autozone and it looks like an exact replica of the factory one and now my fans actually come on! Hooray!! Thanks for the all the help, fellas.
 
if it cools down when yout turn the a/c on its b/c it kicks the fan on so i would look in to that first. do you have air in the system?
 
Hey no problem man, glad could help.

I had coolant tempature sensor problems in the past. What happens is the ECU in your car will use this sensor (among other things) to calulate fuel injector and injector pulsewidth, so you were probably noticing fuel problems, or performance related problems.

It's funny how one little sensor or thing can be bad, and it effects the whole car. Welcome to the DSM community, might as well get use to it. :)

Don't forget about your homies! Recommend those rep points! :)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/reputation-recommendations/

Good luck bro! :thumb:
 
Edit!: Problem solved. It came down to the piece of crap GP Sorensen coolant temperature sensor from Advance Auto Parts. I went and got a Duralast from Autozone and it looks like an exact replica of the factory one and now my fans actually come on! Hooray!! Thanks for the all the help, fellas.

I am sure you will be happy to hear tha Advance switched to the cheaper line of Borg Warner sensors now. ROFL
 
About a month ago the car started to overheat and burn little oil so i thought. So I though

maybe my headgasket is shot. So after two weeks of pure procastination i came around

to buying a Cometic HG. After the install i noticed the car started smoking and

overheating. the smoke this time tho was not minimal. :mad: After countless hours of

reading, searching and troubleshooting I came up with this.

1. Smoke is gray. i read somewhere that if you were burning oil and it was gray the

problem was your turbo seals.

2. the car is still overheating. Migth be water pump, (i know i should've replaced it when i

took the head out) :coy: or radiator. i did notice that when i turn the ac and the fan turns

on the car slowly starts to cool down.

any help?

A guy from town is throwin me a 14b so i can see if the turbo is what's making all the

smoke. do u guys have a list of what i need to install this turbo. i still have the T-25 in

there. i know i should search but my computer is being real slow sorry.
 
i don't know too much about the 14b swap but i do think you need different oil and coolant lines for it. certian places make a kit for it i believe. as far as the smoking. blue=oil, white or "cloudy"=coolant, and dark grey sooty looking smoke=fuel, due to running rich. just thought id throw that out there. hope this helps you a bit

oh, did you happen to check your head for flatness when you had it off? is it possible that it may be warped due to overheating?

:dsm:
 
i believe if it were oil it would be blue smoke either way, out of the exhaust. is the smoke you're experiencing coming out of the exhaust?

do you have a wideband? you should update your profile so others can view what you have parts wise on your car to help diagnose problems. and blocks typically don't warp easily. it would have to get super hot for that to happen. we know it wasn't hot enough because your head isn't warped.
 
My car was doing the same thing, it started to get hot after a pull, and I did the same thing as you, changed the headgasket and to my surprise it was still having the same problems so I did a leakdown test and it did have some leaks, so I took the head off and took it to the machine shop to get it inspected, the valve seats were bad and my damn valve guides were loose so they rebuilt it and I haven't had the chance to test the car. (Did I tell you that the head was brand new and it only had like 3000 miles on it)

So to start check your coolant sensors and fan switches. Then if that don't give you any answers do a leakdown test (to pin point the oil burning).
 
My car was doing the same thing, it started to get hot after a pull, and I did the same thing as you, changed the headgasket and to my surprise it was still having the same problems so I did a leakdown test and it did have some leaks, so I took the head off and took it to the machine shop to get it inspected, the valve seats were bad and my damn valve guides were loose so they rebuilt it and I haven't had the chance to test the car. (Did I tell you that the head was brand new and it only had like 3000 miles on it)

So to start check your coolant sensors and fan switches. Then if that don't give you any answers do a leakdown test (to pin point the oil burning).

he's saying its grey smoke, so doesn't that seem more like he's running rich? since grey/black smoke is fuel...
 
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