1G Car is jerking bad at full boost

[Dustin0201]

What are some reasons my car is jerking bad at full boost? Only things done to the car is a 255 fuel pump, eBay 16g turbo with a 14b waste gate, Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator, MBC turned all the way out almost that hooked to the j pipe and the waste gate. I also found a Greddy spec 2 boost controller that’s hooked to the fuel pressure regulator then into the intake. The Greddy reads 10lbs of boost but adjustments on it seem to do nothing but the other boost gauge reads 16.

 

[dwb]

Spark plugs and wires are a common issue, so replace those and see if it helps. NGK wires and NGK bpr6es plugs are known to work well in these cars.

Edit: Also it's important to check and fix any boost leaks

 

[Dustin0201]

Spark plugs and wires are a common issue, so replace those and see if it helps. NGK wires and NGK bpr6es plugs are known to work well in these cars.

Edit: Also it's important to check and fix any boost leaks

I just changed my bpr6es to 7s an it’s gaped at 28 but I haven’t done nothing with the wires. My 16g turbo wastegate the arm to adjust it fell off so while I’m waiting on the arm to get here I put on my 14b wastegate but it’s just a rod can’t twist it to adjust. An I did a boost leak test I had one at the bov, throttlebody, pipe clamp, but I fixed them. For the fmi the bottom pipe I hit a cracked it a while back but for that I have duct tape wrapped all around it tight.but some reason I didn’t test that I just checked up top. An also my transmission is leaking on top of the transmission right where the breather vent is. But when I sick my finger in there it’s dry.

 

[pauleyman]

what are some reasons my car is jerking bad at full boost? Only things done to the car is a 255 fuel Pump eBay 16g turbo with a 14b waste gate. Fuel lab fuel pressure regulator. Mbc turned all the way out almost.a that hooked to the j pipe a the waste gate. I also found a greddy spec 2 boost controller that’s hooked to the fuel pressure regulator then into the intake. The greddy reads 10lbs of boost but adjustments on it seem to do nothing but the other boost gauge reads 16.

If I'm reading this correctly you have 16 lbs of boost on a 16g on an otherwise stock car. Welcome to fuel cut. Turn the boost down until you have supporting mods.

 

[Dustin0201]

If I'm reading this correctly you have 16 lbs of boost on a 16g on an otherwise stock car. Welcome to fuel cut. Turn the boost down until you have supporting mods.

Idk which one is right the greddy spec 2 is reading 10 but the other gauge is reading 16. If it’s fuel cut what size injectors should I get?

 

[pauleyman]

Idk which one is right the greddy spec 2 is reading 10 but the other gauge is reading 16. If it’s fuel cut what size injectors should I get?

What gauge are we talking about? You do know you can't just add bigger injectors. It doesn't work that way. We also can't answer the question without knowing the plans for the car.

More importantly still is what do you plan to use for engine management? Stock ECU won't cut it.

 

[Dustin0201]

What gauge are we talking about? You do know you can't just add bigger injectors. It doesn't work that way. We also can't answer the question without knowing the plans for the car.

More importantly still is what do you plan to use for engine management? Stock ECU won't cut it.

I don’t really know much about these cars that well. But my plan for the car is to make it fast but nothing to crazy just enough where I can win some races .

It’s an after market gauge that’s reading 16lbs. I just noticed today when the car is warm it pulls pretty good but after a while of driving normally then when I get on it it feels like it has no power really. Could y'all give me some ideas on what stuff I should get that would help me out with this car.

 

[We're on Boost]

wires are a common issue, so replace those and see if it helps. NGK wires and

That link goes to wires for 2g.
The NGK wires for 1g DSM are the RC-ME64 (Stock # 9634) which you can also get from Amazon for $43 or from Rock Auto for $30 plus about $12 for shipping.

 

[dwb]

That link goes to wires for 2g.
The NGK wires for 1g DSM are the RC-ME64 (Stock # 9634) which you can also get from Amazon for $43 or from Rock Auto for $30 plus about $12 for shipping.

I seriously have no idea how those links got there. It wasn't like that when I clicked post.

 

[We're on Boost]

I seriously have no idea how those links got there. It wasn't like that when I clicked post.

Amazon
They might disappoint you with the packaging too. I ordered new NGK wires a year ago and I decided to get them from Rock Auto because I knew they wouldn't ship them out in a plastic bag. With Amazon the packaging is pretty variable and sometimes just not good.

 

[dwb]

I'm not going insane. I hovered over the hyperlink and saw the below message. This must be a "feature" of the last site upgrade. Why Amazon though?

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[Dustin0201]

Also it's important to check and fix any boost leaks

Found a boost leak on one of my injectors

 

[pauleyman]

Found a boost leak on one of my injectors

If that's the case I would suggest some general maintenance.
How old are.....
Wires
Plugs
Vacuum lines
Pcv
Fuel filter
Air filter
Timing belt
Ribbed belts
harmonic balancer
Does the car.....
Have boost leaks
Oil leaks
Vacuum leaks
Gasket issues
Knock sensor melting

Those are some general things that should be in good shape.

 

[We're on Boost]

I'm not going insane. I hovered over the hyperlink and saw the below message. This must be a "feature" of the last site upgrade. Why Amazon though?

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Oh yeah I see, it did the same thing with mine in post #10 because I just typed in the letters and didn't intend for it to be a link.
Also in post #8.
So something new in DSMtuners scoops it up and makes basically an ad out of it. A sneaky monetization.
Man that's gotta go!!!
@Ludachris

 

[Ludachris]

I'm not going insane. I hovered over the hyperlink and saw the below message. This must be a "feature" of the last site upgrade. Why Amazon though?

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Sorry for the confusion guys, this has actually been in place for years now. Every little bit helps with the operating costs. I think I can disable the links for certain usergroups, like the 10-20 year contributors if it's absolutely too intrusive.

 

[We're on Boost]

Sorry for the confusion guys, this has actually been in place for years now. Every little bit helps with the operating costs. I think I can disable the links for certain usergroups, like the 10-20 year contributors if it's absolutely too intrusive.

I don't want my posts to get hijacked like this.
And it would be just too weird if somebody bought a wrong part for their car because of one of these phony links, and they thought it was my fault.
This thing should be disabled for everybody.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

If that's the case I would suggest some general maintenance.
How old are.....
Wires
Plugs
Vacuum lines
Pcv
Fuel filter
Air filter
Timing belt
Ribbed belts
harmonic balancer
Does the car.....
Have boost leaks
Oil leaks
Vacuum leaks
Gasket issues
Knock sensor melting

Those are some general things that should be in good shape.

These are all fantastic (and basic things to think about) suggestions to keep in mind for anyone encountering these issues.

The first time I encountered what the OP is, it scared the heck out of me. Wide open throttle on the highway, trying to show off for a friend, and suddenly felt like someone pulled the Ebrake for a split second. Boost leaks are 'usually' the culprit in this situation, but spark cutting out under load has generally been my second offender in these situations. Pull your plugs, make sure they're the right heat range. Make sure they're gapped properly. Make sure the wires and boots don't have any damage. Built a cheap boost leak tester and pressurize the system 5lbs higher than you're running your boost levels at. Fix everything you find. Usually new/proper range/properly gapped plugs, undamaged wires, and sealing up any boost/vacuum leaks resolve these issues.

That being said, you're never going to overcome the issue of cranking up your MBC beyond what your fuel delivery and tuning can handle. So just make sure that you're sitting at a comfortable level the vehicle can handle.

Sorry for the confusion guys, this has actually been in place for years now. Every little bit helps with the operating costs. I think I can disable the links for certain usergroups, like the 10-20 year contributors if it's absolutely too intrusive.

Unrelated to the post but I feel is important to speak in a dedicated reply; Personally I don't see much of an issue with advertisements built into the site. I'm sure it costs a decent chunk of change to maintain everything. Perhaps a sticky or something somewhere warning everyone to double-check their purchases on links against the knowledge base would be helpful. But if ads are helping the site stay alive then keep it the way it is.

 

[Dustin0201]

Where do these go?

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[dwb]

Where do these go?

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The single broken wire looks like the AC clutch. I couldn't tell you the other one, it's always been unplugged on mine too.

 

[Dustin0201]

The single broken wire looks like the AC clutch. I couldn't tell you the other one, it's always been unplugged on mine too.

What about these I believe the one with the wire is the knock sensor an if so is it bad. The screw I have no idea what it is.

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I just looked it up it says bad knock sensor causes poor acceleration which my car is doing that in first gear, an after driving a while it starts to rumble a pop kinda then goes away. Car has a 255 fuel pump, stock injectors, eBay 16g turbo with the 14b waste gate. Ngk wires, 7s plug gaped to 30, mbc that’s turned almost all the way out a the gauge reads 17psi of boost an a crushed bov, an a fpr that’s set at 43psi. 2 1/2 fmic and I think that’s it.

 

[pauleyman]

As I stated above you've already written a recipe for disaster. All of that flows too much air for stock fuel. You have something wrong with your boost controller. Would be better at this point to remove it and just run a direct line to the actuator. You need to turn it down, fix what's broken and plan for more fuel. That means you need a tuning solution.

I just looked it up it says bad knock sensor causes poor acceleration which my car is doing that in first gear, an after driving a while it starts to rumble a pop kinda then goes away. Car has a 255 fuel pump, stock injectors, eBay 16g turbo with the 14b waste gate. Ngk wires, 7s plug gaped to 30, mbc that’s turned almost all the way out a the gauge reads 17psi of boost an a crushed bov, an a fpr that’s set at 43psi. 2 1/2 fmic and I think that’s it.

You've got to be complete with your description or it's difficult to help you. Your first post has no mention of an FMIC. Please make a profile and list everything done to the car. We also need to know what maintenance you've done and what you've already checked.

As you have posted your knock sensor is bad.

 

[jed344]

Sounds like fuel cut. That is enough to hit it. Second yes the knock sensor looks bad, but without ECMLink or something its hard to guarantee it. When it is bad the ECU will default and pull a TON of timing so the car will be a dog but from what i have seen it wont make the car cut or pop that would be fuel cut. More info is needed too.

 

[Dustin0201]

As I stated above you've already written a recipe for disaster. All of that flows too much air for stock fuel. You have something wrong with your boost controller. Would be better at this point to remove it and just run a direct line to the actuator. You need to turn it down, fix what's broken and plan for more fuel. That means you need a tuning solution.

You've got to be complete with your description or it's difficult to help you. Your first post has no mention of an FMIC. Please make a profile and list everything done to the car. We also need to know what maintenance you've done and what you've already checked.

As you have posted your knock sensor is bad.

The car has, 2 1/2 fmic, fuel lab fpr that’s at 43psi, 16g turbo with 14b waste gate, ngk wires and plugs I have 7s in there now gaped to 30, ball and spring mbc, crushed bov, walbro 255 fuel pump, with stock injectors. balance shaft delete which is what the guy I got it from says it has. Now for the boost leaks I have fixed all except for the 1 injector. Now the fuel filter I do not know if it’s good or bad I need to get one because it looks like it hasn’t been changed.

And I think that’s everything on the car that I know of. I haven’t had the car for long an if it helps the guy that had the car did YouTube videos on it @bacarrs8396. An sorry for making it confusing this is my first Talon an I’m still learning about them.

Ohhh a when I first got the car it had the stock 14b turbo an it ran good with no problems till it went out then when I switched the turbo out that’s when it started acting up. And I do have the 16g waste gate on the way since the arm fell off when driving the rod that you turn to adjust that why the 14b waste gate is on there but I can’t adjust it because it’s just a straight rod an no where to adjust.
[/QUOTE]

 

[pauleyman]

The root cause is likely too much airflow. Turn the boost down. You're hitting fuel cut on a 16g. That's likely why it ran ok on a 14b. I recommend just removing the MBC for now. Show us how it's hooked up. Your description of its behavior doesn't sound right. All of the other items I listed for maintenance need to checked and if necessary fixed. You 100% need to address that knock sensor.

 

[Ludachris]

Hey Dustin, when you get some time, why don't you create a vehicle profile for your car here and copy/paste all your mods in there:

Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser vehicle profiles, photos, build threads, specs, and information.

DSM vehicle profiles and build threads - posted by Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 owners

www.dsmtuners.com

It's easier for people quickly reference that when you post any other questions in the future. That way you don't have to answer the same question about your mods multiple times.