Can ARP head bolts be installed without removing the head?!

[bling5tatus]

wrong!!
You have to take the motor mount off anyways, so then all you have to do is take out the water pipe and loosen the mount to block bolts (4 bolts) then lift the head.

What keeps someone from using the allen head driver to take the studs out then lifting the head over the locating pins in the block and going sidways around that motor mount? I've done it that way and haven't had an issue w/ scoring anything... it's just a matter of how much you're willing to do things that others say "you can't do".

You don't have to install the studs into the block and then slide the head down the studs... everytime I've installed studs, I did it with the head already seated on the block and it works just fine.... and Yes, you can swap all the stock head bolts for head studs w/o cracking the head gasket's seal (assuming you're still using a composite). It's a 10mm hex driver for 1g head bolts and a 12 point 12 mm socket for 2g head bolts.

 

[napkinthief]

Removing the head would make the job so much easier. Say your doing it without removing the head, and you get the first 4 studs done, and the rest are seized. Your screwed with half arps n half stock studs. Then you gotta pull the head.


If you think you can do it, and your fingers are nimble, go for it. It seems like a few people have done it. So it is possible, I dont know if its reasonable though. A MLS gasket could only improve your boost capabilities.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Removing the head would make the job so much easier. Say your doing it without removing the head, and you get the first 4 studs done, and the rest are seized. Your screwed with half arps n half stock studs. Then you gotta pull the head.


If you think you can do it, and your fingers are nimble, go for it. It seems like a few people have done it. So it is possible, I dont know if its reasonable though. A MLS gasket could only improve your boost capabilities.

How do you plan on pulling the head if the old head bolts are seized? If that were the case, you're looking at some fun work anyway. I've personally never seen them get seized and if they do, it's not something that happens very often I'm sure. It's much easier if you just keep the head on it unless ya wanna also have to purchase a headgasket along with any other gaskets you may need, oil, coolant, etc. as well as getting the head decked.

 

[PandaTalon]

quick question do the cams need to be removed to do the studs?

 

[E116]

You do not need to take the cams out

 

[turboglenn]

if that is what he wants to do, they can be done one at a time. drop washer in place, then run stud through washer and block, tighten stud to spec. when done install nuts and tighten per spec.

jim

I've done one of my own and several customer cars this way as well, never had an issue when running, tuning or taking any of them to the strip. The key is putting the washer on first, then putting the stud in to avoid damaging the valve spring seats that get rubbed by the ARP washers

 

[erald01]

I am in the same situation and been running my OEM head studs with 25psi and no problem yet, BUT just like everyone is saying, the ARP studs are a cheap insurance. Is there a sequence to taking the the head studs off and putting the ARP's one (this offcourse with the head being one)? Someone said that if you do it in a fast sequence you should be okay, but what is fast, Nascar crew fast, or 5 min in between the change?

 

[Black99gst]

I am in the same situation and been running my OEM head studs with 25psi and no problem yet, BUT just like everyone is saying, the ARP studs are a cheap insurance. Is there a sequence to taking the the head studs off and putting the ARP's one (this offcourse with the head being one)? Someone said that if you do it in a fast sequence you should be okay, but what is fast, Nascar crew fast, or 5 min in between the change?

i too would like to know the meaning of "quickly" for instance, break loose, removed OEM stud, blow out the hole, put ARP in, and torque, then relax.... and prepare to start the next...? or would you have to complete the entire job quickly from one bolt to the next until the entire job is done?

 

[crimsondragon]

It took me 4 hours to do them all. I did not have access to a compressor. I had to use lung power so it took a little longer. I haven't fully tested it out but I have maxed out at 25 psi and no problems. I say just take the OEM bolt out, clear the hole, then thread the stud in and torque it as fast as you can do it. You can relax in between intervals as it's torqued back down.

 

[Black99gst]

i guess, im still not sure... could i replace one stud (torqued properly) **not touching the other studs**, then take a break, then come back and replace another stud (torqued properly) **again, leaving all others alone** then go to bed... 8 hours later change out another stud (torqued properly) **only touching that one stud** etc... ? or by the meaning of "quickly" does that mean from one stud to the next (torquing the first one before loosening the next obviously)... thanks

 

[erald01]

Also is there a sequence to this, left to right, or from the middle going outward?

 

[pboglio]

That sequence is there to balance out the headgasket crush. With all the other headbolts already evenly crushing the headgasket, unloading one at a time makes little difference and thus the torque sequence isn't necessary. I wouldn't sweat it. I retorqued mine after a couple of heat cycles. Still going strong

 

[erald01]

I def want to do this now, i just hope everything goes smooth. Btw what is the torque spec for the arps's?

 

[imagine3163]

I def want to do this now, i just hope everything goes smooth. Btw what is the torque spec for the arps's?

The torque spec will come in the box with the ARP's. I believe mine were 80-85 with the moly lube.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

You guys seem to be neglecting the major issue of making sure all fluids are out of the stud holes in the block before putting them in. You can and WILL hydrolock a stud in place causing an improperly seated stud if you get any oil or coolant into the head stud holes. Once your engine heats up, coolant will turn to steam, and oil can too depending on temp, and this can crack your block or cause other issues.

It is always better to fully take the head off, have it at least decked, and replace the gasket and t-belt depending on mileage that way you can verify that no fluid is in the bottom of the holes before threading in your studs.

 

[dsm-onster]

Use an airgun and air compressor or filled air tank, and blow out the oil in the threaded hole .

If you get coolant in one of the holes when removing and replacing one fastener at a time, then you have already blown your headgasket

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

You dont have to but you can. Just replace the gasket while your at it and save yourself some time in the future.