Installing arp's without removing head?

[jking29]

Does anyone know if it is possible to install arp head studs without removing the head? Right now my 93 7 bolt is sealed well with great compression and runs well. I do not have any reason to remove the head but would like the extra insurance this year before hitting it with the nitrous. If it is possible I will install the head studs to make sure the bolts don't stretch and lift the head from the spike in cylinder pressure from nitrous. I guess if you can't, I will wait until I need to pull the head.

 

[SkURTnDSM92T]

Loosening the ARP head studs is going to change the compression because the studs will no longer be in tension. If they are loosened, the block and head will not be compressed..this is what you are measuring when you do a compression test.

If i am reading the question properly. If you are going to use nitrous and have the time, just pull the head off. Use the correct procedures to replace the studs, and torque everything to spec and in order..your compression should be just as good, and you will now have the ARP's. Just make sure you use the correct method of assembly and tightening

 

[daren_p]

There have been a couple threads on this subject, is it the best way, probably not. Can it be done, yes. Make sure you do one stud at a time, in proper order. Torque it down to spec in several steps, to the ARP recommended value. Its preferred to use the ARP molylube, which the studs should come with. Then after a few heat cycles check the toque spec again, like you would normally do on a head stud install. I used this method last year & haven't had any issues so far.

 

[Staytuned]

I wouldn't attempt it at all. Better to do it properly and do it once than do it wrong many times.

 

[jking29]

There have been a couple threads on this subject, is it the best way, probably not. Can it be done, yes.

I realize it is not the best way to do it, I was just wondering if it was possible. The motor is sealed up well right now, and I do not feel the need to break that seal and have to surface the head and buy a new head gasket when it is still sealed up well. That is why I said if it is not possible to do, I would wait for the arp's until I HAVE to pull the head. I just have other things to spend the money on right now. Thanks.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

we do it at the shop all the time. Be sure to torque in the proper sequence and correctly. Start in the middle and work your way out.

best of luck

 

[turbo addict]

I have done this on 2 of my dsms, like darenp said do one at a time and in order, also torque in stages complete one stud at a time then move to the next. I have run 22psi and a wet 50 shot, then changed turbos and now run 22psi on pump and 35psi on race gas with not one problem, P.S. I turqued the studs to 105ftlbs with the moly lube.

 

[daren_p]

I have done this on 2 of my dsms, like darenp said do one at a time and in order, also torque in stages complete one stud at a time then move to the next. I have run 22psi and a wet 50 shot, then changed turbos and now run 22psi on pump and 35psi on race gas with not one problem, P.S. I turqued the studs to 105ftlbs with the moly lube.

Wow 105 ft/lbs with the moly lube & I was worried at first that I may have over torqued them when I did 90 or 95 ft/lbs (can't remeber now) Is this on a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt? as the 6 bolt come with a higher recommended torque spec from ARP. Believe ARP recommends 75 ft/lbs for the 7 bolt & something like 85 ft/lbs for the 6 bolts (being they use a larger stud)

 

[Defiant]

Putting new studs on an old head gasket? Hrmph.

 

[1sick91tsi]

i have done it on my last engine. did one at a time reversing the torque order. started at 12 and went down to 1. also i did this with no coolant or oil in the engine and it turned out fine.

 

[GRNDSM]

I used to think that this is a terrible idea... But seeing so many people successfully performing this swap (especially on EVOs, which use the same 11mm stud kit), made me change my mind.

I wouldn't do this on a 6 bolt motor, unless I was looking to run over 30psi (instead, wait for the next time you have to take it apart), but on a 7 bolt motor, this isn't such bad idea if you are looking to run over 23-25psi.

 

[turbo addict]

Wow 105 ft/lbs with the moly lube & I was worried at first that I may have over torqued them when I did 90 or 95 ft/lbs (can't remeber now) Is this on a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt? as the 6 bolt come with a higher recommended torque spec from ARP. Believe ARP recommends 75 ft/lbs for the 7 bolt & something like 85 ft/lbs for the 6 bolts (being they use a larger stud)

At the time I only had 2 cars a 1998TSIAWD and a 1989 mirage turbo. One of each, 6 and 7bolt. The mirage is a 4G61T a 6bolt 1.6l version of the 4g63, 82or83bore with a 75mm stroke. did both at 105 with the molylube. I have a friend that had a 1995 tsiawd the red one that blew the motor on the dyno at 450ish, all stock motor 7 bolt and I think that he was at like 120 with molylube. I thinik would be a little much but the rod let go at 37psi on a 60-1 and after the tear down the head gasket did not leak, stock mitsu not metal.
I don't know if they get baked on or what but the dsm crowd that I hang with we have less problems with head gaskets leaking leaving the head on. Could also be improper install or machine work. But still.