Can ARP head bolts be installed without removing the head?!

[rich3389]

Can I put in my arp head studs without taking the head off and replacing the head gasket?
For example, taking one head stud out and replacing it with the stud ant torquing it down one at a time.

 

[airmail96]

Yes you sure can.

 

[dSmgs-T]

correct

 

[asd_gst]

why would you have to take the head off? all you have to do is take off the valve cover and anythign over the head bolts/studs then change them 1 at a time

 

[crimsondragon]

It's not the correct way to do it. You risk unseating the head and blowing out the headgasket. If you are to do it, follow the sequence and do it quick. Make sure to blow it out with compressed air to get any debris or oil out. The longer you take to get it done, the higher the risk it'll blow.

 

[turboglenn]

It's not the correct way to do it. You risk unseating the head and blowing out the headgasket. If you are to do it, follow the sequence and do it quick. Make sure to blow it out with compressed air to get any debris or oil out. The longer you take to get it done, the higher the risk it'll blow.

Exactly my thoughts, I've done a few of them this way and two things i do are ..One at a time in sequence and do them as fast as possible.. Make sure to not have any oil on them and use ARP molly lube when torquing...I also like to double check torque after 200 miles and once the car has cooled to room temperature (overnight)

 

[daren_p]

I did mine this way & know of multiple others who have as well. There should be a few threads floating around here on this subject if you look around abit. Mine have been done for 2-3 years (can't remember) & with the stock gasket now running 24-25psi daily & have hit 30psi, & no issues as of yet.

 

[KYNgsx]

One other thing you should remember to do is to put the washers in place before threading the studs in. Makes it easier that way; the clearance between the valve springs is tight and not all of the washers can slide in place once the stud is installed

 

[rich3389]

I'm not even sure if I want to waste my time changing out the stock bolts for the ARP's.
I don't see any proof that the stock bolts really stretch from high boost.
I ran a 16g with stock bolts and headgasket for over 2 years and 30k miles at 20+ psi, the bottom end gave out before the head gasket or bolts did.

I wouldn't reuse the stock bolts though, when I take the head off I would def. install the ARP studs.

 

[Project2G]

STM didn't take the head off there evo when they put on the new ARP headstuds.

 

[1glaserturbo]

STM didn't take the head off there evo when they put on the new ARP headstuds.

Yeah, and look at them....deep into the 10's with no issues so far!

 

[pboglio]

I'm not even sure if I want to waste my time changing out the stock bolts for the ARP's.
I don't see any proof that the stock bolts really stretch from high boost.
I ran a 16g with stock bolts and headgasket for over 2 years and 30k miles at 20+ psi, the bottom end gave out before the head gasket or bolts did.

I wouldn't reuse the stock bolts though, when I take the head off I would def. install the ARP studs.

My 2g head bolts definitely stretched. Its cylinder pressure that stretches them, didn't take much more than 350 h.p. worth on my car. Switched to ARP's and haven't looked back since.
Come to think of it, I do have a tendency to run a lot of ignition timing advance thanks to my VPC setup. Thats probably what stretched them.

 

[RipperXX]

I plan on A1 head studs and OEM HG. Overkill yea, but those sons a bitches will crack your head before they streach!

 

[crimsondragon]

STM didn't take the head off there evo when they put on the new ARP headstuds.

The way we did it is not the right way and does not work every time. Do it at your own risk.

-Emery

As quoted when I questioned them about it. It's still risky.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

One other thing you should remember to do is to put the washers in place before threading the studs in. Makes it easier that way; the clearance between the valve springs is tight and not all of the washers can slide in place once the stud is installed

I learned this the hard way as did many others.. ARP should include that note within there instructions for the DSM's....

 

[Grimis]

so this can be done?? what about an engine that hasn't been fired up yet? I got oem bolts in there now but did't have enough funding to get arps and its still on the engine stand. So i could do it one at a time or what? I did't want to use oem but had no choice at the time, Now i have the funds, i want to fix it.

 

[Highbooost]

I'm not even sure if I want to waste my time changing out the stock bolts for the ARP's.
I don't see any proof that the stock bolts really stretch from high boost.
I ran a 16g with stock bolts and headgasket for over 2 years and 30k miles at 20+ psi, the bottom end gave out before the head gasket or bolts did.

I wouldn't reuse the stock bolts though, when I take the head off I would def. install the ARP studs.

I second that, I ran 28psi daily on retaped and redied used head bolts for 5,000. My bottom end ended up loosing compression, never lost the head gasket.

I would say anything over 30psi is where I would probably go to something more.

Later Dr Turbo

 

[dsm-onster]

what is 30 psi? Cylinder pressure is what stretches headbolts not boost. Boost does increase cylinder pressure but 30psi from an hx35 is not 30 psi from an evo3 16g. Massflow of the hx35 will make the cylinder pressure MUCH higher. Thus it's horsepower than is directly related to the tensil strength limit of the headbolts. If you havn't strtched a 7bolt headbolt, then you arn't runnign enough power to merit arp headbolts. That doesn't meant hat the op won't. He jsut may not be the best tuner on the market and may see a string of knock which tells him he needs to richen up a bit. The arps will save his gasket; the oem bolts will not.

 

[crimsondragon]

Think of it as insurance. Keeps the head on. Some are more lucky than others.

 

[big_d]

^^ Yeah I totally agree... Hell, I even have arp's in my winter beater. I just didn't feel comfortable reusing stock head bolts. It's cheap insurance.

 

[pboglio]

2g head bolts are smaller in diameter than 1g, hence they tend to let go alot earlier. About as hard to change as an oil filter.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Very nice. I needed a thread like this one...I have ARP's in the talon and was thinking on swapping to the gsx...And all I have is time at the moment...

 

[toofast82]

I suppose you could do it as mentioned if you did it one at a time. Don't know if this would have any long term effect on headgasket, but probably not a big issue?

 

[talondave]

You would never be able to get the head off without removeing the studs again b/c the motor mount is in the way and you can't lift the head straight off the studs without cutting it. Cutting it with the head on would be pretty hard too.

wrong!!
You have to take the motor mount off anyways, so then all you have to do is take out the water pipe and loosen the mount to block bolts (4 bolts) then lift the head.

 

[turboglenn]

Yes, it can be done as others have said. Just pull and replace one at a time and use the OEM torquing sequence as your guide for the order to replace them in.

And remember when you pull the OEM bolt. put the washer down on the hole first, then install the stud...this will keep you from tweaking one or more of your spring seats that the washer can hit on some of the head bolt locations when the stud is put in before the washer is placed over the hole