Camshaft Seal - Is this still good to use?

[Speedstyle]

I ordered some new old-stock cam seals and the part is the older part number MD133317. Should this seal be solid and hard to bend or should it be soft and bendable rubber?

I am swapping camshafts for the first time so this is new to me as to what characteristics this seal should have.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Our cam seals are metal with a rubber sealing ring, like any typical axle or shaft seal.
Here is an example but FelPro makes a good camshaft seal also, just FYI.

https://www.autozone.com/internal-engine/camshaft-oil-seal/p/fel-pro-camshaft-oil-seal-tcs45483/68139_0_0

Mitsubishi OEM Camshaft Seal for 4G63 Evo DSM (MD372536)

Genuine OEM Mitsubishi cam seals for the 4G63 1G/2G DSM, GVR4 and Evo 1-9 models. Two are required for a full replacement. Sold individually as needed. Price is for one seal.

stmtuned.com

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[dwb]

It's a rigid rubber (nitrile?) coated steel frame that will press (hammer) into the bore with a soft lip inside for sealing against the camshaft.

I learned this the hard way - install the camshafts and caps first, then install your seals after the bolts are torqued. If you bolt down the cam cap with the seal in place it tends to gouge the outer rim of the seal.

 

[Speedstyle]

Ok, good to know. I've never dealt with these parts before so I wasn't sure what to expect. Thanks for the information guys!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I don't know about anyone else, but I use a thin film of RTV on the outside of the seals to prevent leakage.

 

[jdxnc]

New oem seals are nice and soft, if they're hard they will leak. Make sure to oil both sealing surfaces before install, I never used RTV and never had one leak.

 

[97egl]

New oem seals are nice and soft, if they're hard they will leak. Make sure to oil both sealing surfaces before install, I never used RTV and never had one leak.

Just curious do you install them "per the service manual"? Where you drive the seal in once the cam cap is on or do you do what I think most of us do and put the cam cap on over the seal and then tighten it down? I've had them leak without RTV but I also install them the "wrong way"

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I've done both ways and find that putting the cam cap on first and then pressing the cam seal in (usually by hand) until it "seats" at the back, so it is perpendicular to the cam face, ensuring a round seal all the way around. Just the way I do it. The RTV lets it slip in easier IMO also and MAKE SURE to lube the cams and seal with oil.

 

[Speedstyle]

I've done both ways and find that putting the cam cap on first and then pressing the cam seal in (usually by hand) until it "seats" at the back, so it is perpendicular to the cam face, ensuring a round seal all the way around. Just the way I do it. The RTV lets it slip in easier IMO also and MAKE SURE to lube the cams and seal with oil.

Ok, I will use this method for installation. The camshafts themselves actually arrived today in the mail, which was surprising since they weren't supposed to ship until September. I will probably install them in the next few weeks.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

This is just MY method of installing camshaft seals.
Feel free to use whichever way you feel most comfortable with.
Marty

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[Speedstyle]

Thanks for the video Marty, it's very helpful!

 

[jdxnc]

Just curious do you install them "per the service manual"? Where you drive the seal in once the cam cap is on or do you do what I think most of us do and put the cam cap on over the seal and then tighten it down? I've had them leak without RTV but I also install them the "wrong way"

I put them on the cam first.

 

[dwb]

Here's what happens to the seals if you bolt the cap down on top of them instead of pressing them in after installing the caps. I installed these a few times during mockup but opted for new ones later.

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[BLACK'98DSM]

I installed a 10 year old (new) main seal once... 2 months later the trans had to be removed again to replace it. It's not worth risking it. OE cam seals and main seals can last a long time when they're conditioned by engine oil and softened by heat. Sitting in a dry package at room temperature is not healthy long term.

I always give seals and gaskets a squeeze test. If they're excessively hard or crunchy, no go. If they're fairly soft and flexible, good to go.