Burning oil after shifts?

[jettster91]

My Build, 30 Over Manle Pistons, 6 bolt rods, BS Delete, Acl Bearings, triple layer head gasket, ARP head studs, HKS 272 cams, Stock mani, Garrett 50 trim turbo, FMIC, DSM Link v3, 2g mas. Compresson test 180 across, Give or take a psi.

my problem I seem to be Burning oil after shifting from a Pull, Doesn't burn it during driving I dont seem to see it while idling, But i do get a pretty stinky Garage when i start it in the morning. my turbo has 558 miles on it, So im thinking i can rule that one out, I have little to no shaft Play and no in and out,

If i sit on 2 step and let off i get the same Puff when im shifting after a pull,
recently I had a timing belt failure, And I had to replace the head, due to a couple bent valves, When i got my other head, I did not replace the valve seals cause they looked "ok"... I was also strapped for time and needed a car for work.
So im just posting to see what you guys think before i pull the head to change the valve seals, Cause i dont want to waste my time with somthing that isnt wrong. But im suspecting its the valve seals. Seems every post i look it there is 3 main answers, Valve seals, Rings, Or a turbo, But I cant find any posts the resemble my problem,

thanks In advanced.

 

[DSM1G90]

It's common to see oil after high rev shifts since the oil pressure and the revs are high.

When you drop the clutch and suddenly let off the gas just for that split moment, the sudden throttle plate closure creates tonnage of vacuum in the cylinders to pull oil past the rings which then get burnt off when the throttle plate reopens.

You don't get this in normal driving since the throttle plate closure is more gradual and revs aren't as high which the results is a much lower vacuum level.

If more oil shows up, it could be rings aren't as tight as they should be.

 

[JusMX141]

Smoke show under vacuum = valve guide seals or oil bypassing the turbine sealing ring of the turbo. Even if the turbo has no shaft play it can still smoke if the oil drain is kinked or there is excessive crankcase pressure that is preventing the turbo from draining effectively.

Excessive crankcase pressure will also cause oil to bypass the valve guide seals.

 

[jettster91]

Im running 2 8an welded fitting off my valve cover, to a catch can. with pcv blocked off,
why would vacuum cause oil to bypass the turbine seal? i have no oil in my IC piping, so if its the turbo it would have to be the hot side, How does vacuum affect that? and the turbo is Brandnew JusMX141, your the one i got my turbo from.

 

[JusMX141]

why would vacuum cause oil to bypass the turbine seal?

If the crankcase can't breathe well enough on it's own, especially at idle or under decel, it will breathe through the turbo or even the valve seals.

Post up some pics of your catch can / PCV setup as well as your turbo's oil drain. This may be easy to solve.

 

[jettster91]

Just performed a leak down test and each cylinder was around 12% No higher than 15% Which seems pretty good,

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[JusMX141]

Catch can looks good...although I'd run the lines ABOVE the intercooler piping if possible. The way you have it there, any oil that enters the lines and doesn't make it to the can will lay in the lines and prevent the engine from breathing.


I'm a little concerned with the oil drain there, the metal braided portion has a little bit of a kink to it. You have to remember that despite being metal on the outside, they're still rubber on the inside...and the rubber can kink without the metal appearing kinked whatsoever.

All of the bends in the line should be done with fittings- the hose portion should be straight as an arrow. You already have the roll stop bracket notched, which is a HUGE plus...from here I'd look into getting two 45* fittings, or run a 30* off the turbo and a 60* off the pan if your turbo is placed pretty close to the block. The end result should look like this:

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[jettster91]

Alright ill work shop it a little bit see if that stops my issue.
thank you for the advice


Update

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[JusMX141]

^ MUCH better.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Catch can looks good...although I'd run the lines ABOVE the intercooler piping if possible. The way you have it there, any oil that enters the lines and doesn't make it to the can will lay in the lines and prevent the engine from breathing.





I'm a little concerned with the oil drain there, the metal braided portion has a little bit of a kink to it. You have to remember that despite being metal on the outside, they're still rubber on the inside...and the rubber can kink without the metal appearing kinked whatsoever.



All of the bends in the line should be done with fittings- the hose portion should be straight as an arrow. You already have the roll stop bracket notched, which is a HUGE plus...from here I'd look into getting two 45* fittings, or run a 30* off the turbo and a 60* off the pan if your turbo is placed pretty close to the block. The end result should look like this:

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Nice pic jus

 

[Blu90GST]

Off topic but are those shock bars stock on lasers? I have the same exact one and it came with my car if not

 

[Archer Fabrications]

None came with a strut bar

 

[jettster91]

Mine was on the car when i got it. its kind of annoying gets in the way

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Then remove it?

 

[d1978]

I have to agree when that vac hits pulling oil from valve seals, or turbo seals.... Your getting very mi-nute oscillation from one of the two because somethin is out of spec causing oil to escape past the seals

 

[jettster91]

None came with a strut bar

im lazy,

I have to agree when that vac hits pulling oil from valve seals, or turbo seals.... Your getting very mi-nute oscillation from one of the two because somethin is out of spec causing oil to escape past the seals

Im thinking its the valve seals Its still burning a little after shifting, hasnt changed