oil burning problem after rebuild

[MeetSueBeShe]

hi it's me again...

i'am driving a 92 1g EDM DSM FWD N/T and have done a N/T to turbo conversion...everythings fine...

i have all new gaskets from bottom to top, and all internals meets spec. also turbo is in spec. and needs no oil...

i have put in new topline pistons (8:1), also valve seals are new...block is not bored or honed, because all cylinders are quite looking good and measuring spec...compression test says 170 psi across the board...

my problem now, i have put all together and cranked...car runs very good, datalogger says everythings ok...

i drove about 50 kilometers and burned about half an liter oil and when i put out the spark plugs theres a huge amount of oil an all four pistons...

the car runs very well before the conversion no oil need or so...

i have read all across the board but dont found any possible answer...

hope you can help me...=)

greets from austria...


so long,

gary!

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I was going to say "Well what about your turbo; what condition is that in?", but then I re-read your post and thought "WHA!!!"

You say you replaced the pistons and didn't even hone the block? Ouch that's gotta hurt. Sorry to hear that bud. Looks like you need to start over. Any time you pop the pistons out of the block, you are going to want to hone and re-ring it.

Ps. I read your other post and was wondering; Did you add a knock sensor to your system when you did the conversion? That's the other difference in the engine wiring that I know of.

 

[MeetSueBeShe]

thanks for reply...=)

well engine is back out again and everything looks still fine...hone is still "seeable" and both pistons, the N/T OEM Pistons and the Topline Turbo pistons, still have same sizes...

i have noticed that the spacer from the oil ring looking different to the OEM spacer...

i mean if its the block, why is so much oil on the top of the piston after shut the engine off...when the engine is off the crank only rotates a few times, and i dont think that its possible it comes from the crankcase...

or is it possible?!

EDIT// the EDM N/T comes standard with a knock sensor...and the MAS is still the same as the USDM Turbo cars...


so long,

gary!

 

[heckles]

so your assuming its coming from the head? Who did the heads (valves)?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Check your intake manifold. Is it full of oil? If you have new valve seals it's not flowing through those. It would have to either come past the rings, or flow through the manifold. Assuming the head gasket is sealed too. But It doesn't matter how nice the cylinders look. You can't re-ring a block without at least a few passes from the flex hone.

 

[MeetSueBeShe]

nope intake is quite clean...PCV Valve is new and checked...

IC Pipes all clean and charger has no shaft play or in/out play...

i have read that the valve guides may be worn, but before the conversion it still work fine...

valves sealing fine...checked with fuel...


so long,

gary!

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Well there you have it! Definitve proof that you need to hone your cylinders before you change the rings. Sorry to hear that Gary. Good luck with your conversion. I'm in the middle of the same job. But in a Colt... cue laughter here.

 

[MeetSueBeShe]

its me again...big confusion...^^

the block and head where out for measuring...


everythings fine...cylinder bore sizes are in spec...near to limit but in spec...

out of roundness is also ok...only cylinder 3 has 0,016 mm...thats 0,006 mm too much but i think it should be fine...

valve guides to valves are near new one...

so i'am at the same point as before...


so long,

gary!

 

[Rob10_99]

Rings need to be right side up or they will push oil into the cylinders as well.
Hone is a must, and proper gapping for your HP range.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

its me again...big confusion...^^

the block and head where out for measuring...


everythings fine...cylinder bore sizes are in spec...near to limit but in spec...

out of roundness is also ok...only cylinder 3 has 0,016 mm...thats 0,006 mm too much but i think it should be fine...

valve guides to valves are near new one...

so i'am at the same point as before...


so long,

gary!

I think you have boring and honing the cylinder walls mixed up. Boring is where you resize the cylinder walls when there is a gouge or the walls are just worn to the point where you cannot reuse them at that size. That is where you would bore the cylinder walls out, hone it and use bigger oversized pistons.

When you are honing the cylinder walls you are using stones to sand the walls to take the glaze off. You do this after you bore the cylinder and if you are reusing the block without boring. You HAVE to do this in order for your new piston rings to seat properly. If you don't do this you will push and burn oil. Your pistons and cylinder walls will still be within spec and you will get good compression numbers, but your rings are just not seating.