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Burned Exhaust Valve?

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iiNFAMOUSCHRiS

Proven Member
264
0
Sep 3, 2013
Kalamazoo, Michigan
So, my car has a burned exhaust valve, just wondering what a good replacement for them would be? I was looking at the Brian Crower ones on there site, but wanted some input from the users here...

running a stock setup for right now, aftermarket bov....planning on doing a big 16g, FMIC, and tossing in DSMLink in the near future, so will the BC valves hold up nicely?
 
Removing the cylinder head just do the right job the first time. Port & polish, 1mm over valves, performance springs and etc... I like Ferrea, since I don't have my own parts yet, but its up to each customer to see what they can afford.
Regards,

TRILOGY TURBOS
 
So, my car has a burned exhaust valve, just wondering what a good replacement for them would be? I was looking at the Brian Crower ones on there site, but wanted some input from the users here...

running a stock setup for right now, aftermarket bov....planning on doing a big 16g, FMIC, and tossing in DSMLink in the near future, so will the BC valves hold up nicely?

Yes the BC valves will be fine, also pick up a set of the BC1100 springs or the BC100 spring kit w/ Ti retainers.

Guides will need checked, and the cause of the burnt valve found.

Good chance the seat that had the burnt valve is distorted and will need cut.


Removing the cylinder head just do the right job the first time. Port & polish, 1mm over valves, performance springs and etc... I like Ferrea, since I don't have my own parts yet, but its up to each customer to see what they can afford.
Regards,

TRILOGY TURBOS


WOW, the way I read the OP's post, he is nowhere needing a head built like that.

Do you even have a clue what needs to be done to install +1mm os valves properly so you can get the benefit from the larger valve?
 
Yes the BC valves will be fine, also pick up a set of the BC1100 springs or the BC100 spring kit w/ Ti retainers.

Guides will need checked, and the cause of the burnt valve found.

Good chance the seat that had the burnt valve is distorted and will need cut.

Would I be able to get away with not getting the spring/retainers for right now? I'll get them at the end of the month(I know, it's kinda stupid to open it up, replace the valves then open it again to replace the springs, but it's my DD and I can't afford the springs until the end of the month, and don't wanna risk ruining the motor), or should I just hold off on the entire job until I get paid? I'm currently babying the car, it barely even boosts...the only time it boosts is merging onto the highway to get to class.

WOW, the way I read the OP's post, he is nowhere needing a head built like that.

Do you even have a clue what needs to be done to install +1mm os valves properly so you can get the benefit from the larger valve?

Yeah, i'm not looking for a "high performance" car, just one that can handle the B16G without imploding haha


also, any DIY guides on doing the valves? never tried it before...but i've got some mechanical knowledge, and common sense.
 
If you just going to freshen up the head with some valve seals, you may could lap the valves and go, but with a burnt valve you have other issues that may not be able to be fixed DIY style.

basic single springs are not all that expensive, BC1100 will cost about $85 Chances are better than not that your springs are weak.
 
If you just going to freshen up the head with some valve seals, you may could lap the valves and go, but with a burnt valve you have other issues that may not be able to be fixed DIY style.

basic single springs are not all that expensive, BC1100 will cost about $85 Chances are better than not that your springs are weak.

What could the cause of it POSSIBLY be?(I know there can be many causes, but what's the most common with the 2G?)

I know, for one thing, the stock boost controller is bypassed(there's a little hose connecting in place of the boost controller)...i've got a brand new, in box boost controller from the dealership, should I go ahead and toss that on as well?


the only thing I found on the BC site was the spring/retainer set, and it was $255...unless you can point me in the direction of a legitimate vendor, just don't want some cheap eBay knock-off set.

http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0100
 
Just disconnect your WG actuator from the flapper arm and drive it NA for a couple weeks if you want to wait to do it all.

Engnbldr valves on eBay are a decent choice too. I think I got my set for just about $100 shipped. If Bogus says its ok for a stock rebuild, then it's ok!

Extremepsi.com for the valve springs. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=23801&cat=1447&page=1
 
Last edited:
Loose guides will cause it, it allows the valve not to seat properly.

Carbon build up on the back of the valve is another one, the carbon will hold the valve cracked open.

With the BCS bypassed, you are running wastegate spring pressure, so installing the new one from will return you to stock settings. Or you can get a MBC and adjust that.

There are many vendors that can sell you just the springs, check the supporting vendors in the market place.
 
I tossed the BCS back on, it's now boosting at 12PSI rather than 20-22(according to the my aftermarket gauge) that it was doing without it. I'll just be careful with that until I can afford to do the whole thing rather than just the valves.

could it have been caused by the turbo boosting to 20-22psi that burned the valve?
 
it was between 10-15. i'm in the process of rebuilding the head as well as EGR delete and replacing all the gaskets and vacuum lines.
 
Just disconnect your WG actuator and drive it NA for a couple weeks if you want to wait to do it all.

Careful, someone might interpret that as disconnecting the vac line to the actuator instead of how you meant it, as disconnecting the wastegate flapper arm from the rod.

would this burned exhaust valve cause it to not hold boost, or would that be a vac leak?
It won't cause a boost leak. It can hurt spool though, and it can cause misfires and even more dangerous backfires.

could it have been caused by the turbo boosting to 20-22psi that burned the valve?
Yep. Most likely it detonated a couple of times, which produced extreme heat and pressure, and that killed the valve.

Also, a low vacuum reading doesn't necessarily mean a manifold boost/vac leak, it can also mean low/no compression on a cylinder due to a burned valve.
 
slight...update, I suppose.

I found out i've got 650cc injectors, no tune, and the car was running without a boost control solenoid when i first got it....seems that would account for my burned valve? currently taking the head off to replace it and fix the valve issue, as well as putting in stock injectors, and already put a brand new stock BCS in a month or so ago.

and the vacuum always fluttered +/- 1-3 PSI when it idled, btw.
 
BCS doesn't matter. It does very little, unless you re-write the programming for it. On a stock car it allows wastegate pressure to be increased upward by a few psi for a short time under the right conditions.

The bigger injectors without any tuning is almost impossible. The car would run like crap if you got it to run at all.
 
well, it was running somewhat decently..rich as all hell, obviously....didn't need a wideband to tell me that haha, and without the BCS the gauge would peak at 22-25PSI, with the BCS it would peak at 15-17PSI.
 
That's with the WGA connected directly to a nipple on the compressor discharge? Or did someone simply unhook the WGA from the boost source? In stock form, the boost signal travels through the BCS to get to the WGA, under certain conditions the BCS opens the pressure to vent, which keeps the WGA from seeing full pressure thereby increasing boost.
 
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