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Building head to rev 8.5k

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fwdeclipse

15+ Year Contributor
809
4
Dec 17, 2005
salt lake city, Utah
Ok this winter I am going to be building my head so i can rev to 8.5k. I was planning on going with 272s but I can get a good deal on some bc 280s. After reading it seems that 272s wont really pull that high. My car is by no means a daily driver. It gets driven on sunny weekend days and I take it to the track a dozen times during the race season. I am also planning on putting in manley springs and retainers,and removing the balance shafts. My other question is will the stock valves be fine to leave in or should I upgrade. So do you think to rev this high I should go with the 280s? Thanks for the help.
 
You won't need anything other than the springs, the rest of the components will work fine.
 
So I can rev that high with stock cams? I thought they will peter out in a hurry that why I asked if I should go 280s or 272s.
 
The valve springs are what are responsable for a high reving motor. 272s with upgraded single springs will be fine. The stock valves will work fine as well. 8500 is a safe rev limit for a mildly built head.
 
Have you ever thought about going with a 1G head & intake. The 2g head will probably peter out very quickly.
 
The 1g heads flow real well with a good valve job and clean up the casting. I will say it again the turbo and intake manifold is were your going to get the high RPM flow out of these motors not just the head work. Alot of porting is worthless unless your shifting the car at 9k+ and are over 500 hp. Even so the more porting you do the less velocity is there at lower RPM so its forcing you to spin the motor higher to get the flow.
The 1g intake levels off at 7000 and is were a magnus style intake will come alive as long as you have the cams and turbo to go along with it.
I would say once you hit the 450 mark on the dyno you are ready for a SM intake and will see a good gain out of it.
Building one of these motors is not rocket sience just common sense.
 
I just recived my Brian Crower 280's and the Brian Crower valvetrain kit. After talking to Brian we came up with this... The 280's are going to be great at 8500, but you must have the upgraded valvesprings. You can get the Brian Crower valve springs for under 100 and skip the retainers if you are really cheap. You really should go with the Ti. retainers also to lighten up the valvetrain. His springs and retainers can be had for a little over $200. Brian told me guys have spun there motors past 10k rpms with his single springs. I will use them to 8500 or past that if my turbo is still making airflow.
 
The 1g heads flow real well with a good valve job and clean up the casting. I will say it again the turbo and intake manifold is were your going to get the high RPM flow out of these motors not just the head work. Alot of porting is worthless unless your shifting the car at 9k+ and are over 500 hp. Even so the more porting you do the less velocity is there at lower RPM so its forcing you to spin the motor higher to get the flow.
The 1g intake levels off at 7000 and is were a magnus style intake will come alive as long as you have the cams and turbo to go along with it.
I would say once you hit the 450 mark on the dyno you are ready for a SM intake and will see a good gain out of it.
Building one of these motors is not rocket sience just common sense.

The 1G intake will make plenty of power past 7000 as long as the rest of the setup is geared towards high rpm power, it really isn't a big bottleneck. I still have the stock intake manifold and rev to 8500 but I feel that I need to raise the rev limit to 9000.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I really would like to stick with my 2g head but you guys are saying they flow like garbage. If I get it ported by a machine shop to match everything will that help out.
 
I would find a good used core on the trader or on this board. The 2g intake runners are real small compaired to a 1g. You may find one thats already done and all you need is your cams/ springs but I would have it check out before using it.
There have been tests on diffrent maifolds including a stock 1g and it does stop flowing well at 7-7300k. This does not mean the motor will stop making power but the intake desighn with the long runners are made for low to mid rpm street power.
 
I just recived my Brian Crower 280's and the Brian Crower valvetrain kit. After talking to Brian we came up with this... The 280's are going to be great at 8500, but you must have the upgraded valvesprings. You can get the Brian Crower valve springs for under 100 and skip the retainers if you are really cheap. You really should go with the Ti. retainers also to lighten up the valvetrain. His springs and retainers can be had for a little over $200. Brian told me guys have spun there motors past 10k rpms with his single springs. I will use them to 8500 or past that if my turbo is still making airflow.


OK, good. Maybe you can then be the first one to give some kind of assessment of the cams. There is another thread going and I have been waiting for some feedback. The only feedback on the BC stuff that I have dealt with personally was negative and it was in regards to cranks.

MB
 
OK, good. Maybe you can then be the first one to give some kind of assessment of the cams. There is another thread going and I have been waiting for some feedback. The only feedback on the BC stuff that I have dealt with personally was negative and it was in regards to cranks.

MB

I plan on it sir! I have also posted in another thread on this board and I think the title of it is Brian Crowers 280's or somthing like that... I plan on updating it with results... I have logs of before and will have logs of after. My before logs are with Web Cams Street Grind (272/256, weird huh?). My head went out today for a cut, o-ring and to get the new valvetrain installed. Should get it back soon after the new year and will have the car back togather the same day!
The only feedback I have right now isnt worth much... Shipping was fast, products look great and they were well packaged... But all that matters is how they preform. I know alot of people have his cams already, but it seems like no one is giving feedback. What problems did you have with the cranks?

In regards to everyone downing the 2G head... The 2G head is a much better design than a 1G head. Stock for Stock a 1G head flows better, ported a 2G head will make more power. There is more involved then just port size, the 1G head is like a hogged out head from the factory. The 2G head has alot better angles and the air flows into the combution chamber more efficiantly. A EVO head is disiged alot closer to a 2G head then a 1G head.

To the OP, your 2G head is fine. The stock 2G intake manifold is not. Put on a Magnus or some other type of SMIM along with the cams and valvetrain and rev the piss out of that thing!
 
I would find a good used core on the trader or on this board. The 2g intake runners are real small compaired to a 1g. You may find one thats already done and all you need is your cams/ springs but I would have it check out before using it.
There have been tests on diffrent maifolds including a stock 1g and it does stop flowing well at 7-7300k. This does not mean the motor will stop making power but the intake desighn with the long runners are made for low to mid rpm street power.

For a street mainly car the 2g is a better choice because it spools very quick but in a race application it will work ok but a 1g is better.

Also I do have a SM intake along with tubular hearder, and bigger turbo for the race car. I also have Comp Cams 259
 
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