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Building Head and NEED HELP!!!

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BOOSTIN21

15+ Year Contributor
413
3
Sep 22, 2003
Cedarburg, Wisconsin
Alright well for those of you dont know I am installing a ported 2g head on my 1990 TSi AWD and i have a few questions. I am getting the 2g head ported and drilled and tapped to go onto my 6bolt block. i am wondering if my setup will work. i want to get the best flow i can out of the head on my budget. i want to eventually put FP2's in the head so i know i will need to get upgraded springs and probably retainers. i want to buy crower titanium springs/retainers. i probably wont have the $$ for the cams right away so i will stick with my 90' cams for now and swap out later. do u guys think i will need to upgrade valves? i want J.A.M S.S valves they utilize the swirl polish to help increase flow. thats good... right. but will i need it or should i just buy OEM valves? i know i need to upgrade lifters... well not necessarily but i want to be safe. my goal is to run low-mid 12's. if i am missing anything or whatever just let me know. this is my first time doing something like this removing a head and building one and all that jazz. i just dont want to mess anything up i cant afford it.
thanks for reading my book i just wrote:D
Cullen
 
BOOSTIN21 said:
Alright well for those of you dont know I am installing a ported 2g head on my 1990 TSi AWD and i have a few questions. I am getting the 2g head ported and drilled and tapped to go onto my 6bolt block. i am wondering if my setup will work. i want to get the best flow i can out of the head on my budget. i want to eventually put FP2's in the head so i know i will need to get upgraded springs and probably retainers. i want to buy crower titanium springs/retainers. i probably wont have the $$ for the cams right away so i will stick with my 90' cams for now and swap out later. do u guys think i will need to upgrade valves? i want J.A.M S.S valves they utilize the swirl polish to help increase flow. thats good... right. but will i need it or should i just buy OEM valves? i know i need to upgrade lifters... well not necessarily but i want to be safe. my goal is to run low-mid 12's. if i am missing anything or whatever just let me know. this is my first time doing something like this removing a head and building one and all that jazz. i just dont want to mess anything up i cant afford it.
thanks for reading my book i just wrote:D
Cullen
Just why are you using a head that has smaller ports?
Hell get a 1G head off ebay or the yard for 100.

I mean a heavily ported 2G head can match the size of the 1G, but that's after ALOT of porting.

I got the JAM S/S valves and upgraded springs. I like them. When I bought them they were 260 ish for 16. now they are cheaper. So now they are probly closer to the cost of the OEM replacements at 16-20 a pop.

You do not need to get everything off the bat, just the heavier things like internal parts that require machine work, or heavy down time you want done now. Head parts, especially lifters, and cams are a 20 minute deal to do. So those parts can be done anytime.
 
well i really didnt want to get into it but u scratched my back i guess i can scratch yours. in all actuality a 2g head will outflow a 1g head. this is going to turn into a heated debate i imagine. but it has to do with the port angles of the 2g head that make it a better design and actually a 1g head is a poorer design. it only flows more intake wise because the TB is bigger the intake manifold is a better design and a 1g has more aggressive cams. dnt get me wrong 1g head is fine. i still have to take mine off the car but i want to do something not many people have done with this. my 1g head is fine it only has 59k on the whole shabang. i guess lifters and cams can wait will i need to upgrade valve guides at all i know that bronze are better but will it be necessary for my future setup when the head is complete with cams and all?
and when i drill and tap the holes in the head for the head studs could i do that myself i have access to the tools and my autos/metals teacher could help or should i have the guy who is porting it do it. he said he could jet blast, port, and drill and tap for $450 is that a good price? i hope i make sense here. i am kinda panicing here i need to get my car out and i can use all the help i can get
i appreciate it guys keep replies coming
cullen
 
Its not port size its the design that will get you the flow, a 2G head with mild porting will help you heaps
 
another good reason to switch to a 2g head on a 1g car is that because the velocity in the 2g head the turbo will spool up way much quicker then the 1g head! If you did your reading you would found out that the first gen head is great for drag but poor for street as the 2g head aint all that great in drag but is your best bet for street use. BUT can the 2g head acually be wired up right on a 1g dsm??
 
You'll be fine with the OEM valves. Just re-use the ones that came in your 2g head and worry about other things first.

Why are you having your head bolt holes tapped?

Velocity and port design doesn't matter in a forced induction application. I would worry about port velocity and design of a 2g head if I were building an n/a engine, but in all honesty I would just stick your 1G head back on there and not mess with putting on a 2g head at all. Realistically, you won't be able to tell a difference in the two.
 
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