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Building Head during spring....

4g63telantra

Proven Member
455
0
Dec 10, 2004
Toronto, Ontario_Canada
During the end of winter, I would like to build a DSM 4g63 head. I have the block built with rods, pistons, ARP's etc...

What I would like to know is...

1- Best head 1G or 2G?
2- What should I be upgrading? (1mm valves, dual valve springs, porting????)
3- What should I leave stock?
 

dsm-onster

DSM Wiseman
8,594
111
Jul 11, 2004
Bloxom, Virginia
4g63telantra said:
During the end of winter, I would like to build a DSM 4g63 head. I have the block built with rods, pistons, ARP's etc...

What I would like to know is...

1- Best head 1G or 2G?
2- What should I be upgrading? (1mm valves, dual valve springs, porting????)
3- What should I leave stock?

3- Well, you havn't stated a horsepower goal. That will be neccesary to determine what you should leave stock. But assuming you want to reach the potential of your turbo, and your block seams to be able to handle it...

2- I would go with FP2X cams; higher lift than HKS 272s, Higher ramp rate (broader power band: up top and down low), less expensive, FP is a VERY reputable company. With the savings over the HKS 272s, get a set of Manley springs. I run FP2Xs with this set up on stock new valves to 8500 rpms all day long. SBR (another VERY reputable company) recommended them to me for the FP2Xs. Going 1 mm over on valves gives you alot of top end flow. I didn't bother as I feel that I wouldn't gain that much. But since you've built your bottem end you might as well. Porting is more for your first question...

1- Many say right away that the 1g head is the best for flow. If you look at the ports they are huge. And, based on my research on this forum, it seams that the 1g head 1g intake is actually not that bad for flow to redline. But, also have researched and found that a properly ported 2g head can out flow a 1g head because the experienced porter has enough material to shape the ports perfect for your application. I say if you don't want to spend the money on a good port job then grab a 1g head (and a matching intake mani: 1g or smim). If you are will go put out the bones for a good port job then the 2g is probably best because of the extra material in the ports.

Do ALOT of research. Matching your head to your goals can be meticulous and time consuming. But I love the details. Horsepower is in the details with head work.
 

4g63telantra

Proven Member
455
0
Dec 10, 2004
Toronto, Ontario_Canada
Well Thanks for the reply. Well ya I guess im gonna do some more reading on head mods to see whats best.
 

Scrymerr

Proven Member
1,370
4
Sep 22, 2002
Vacaville, California
Thats pretty much what I am doing. Head parts are not that expensive so I bought a bunch of aftermarket stuff. I am going with a 1g head, FP2x cams, nitrited 1mm oversized valves, FP spring and retainer setup, bronze valve guides, new valve stem seals. Very excited about this setup.
 

1SloColt

Proven Member
281
6
Sep 24, 2004
port royal, Virginia
Scrymerr said:
Thats pretty much what I am doing. Head parts are not that expensive so I bought a bunch of aftermarket stuff. I am going with a 1g head, FP2x cams, nitrited 1mm oversized valves, FP spring and retainer setup, bronze valve guides, new valve stem seals. Very excited about this setup.
Read this guys post and its perfect for a good head upgrade/overhaul. Forget about any port job on a 1g head unless you are thinking of going over 600whp. I think the FP hardware scrymeer mentioned along with ferrea guides, and some stock valves would be plenty enough for most people on this board. I would actually like to see how much 1mm oversize valves help out above 7k rpm on a car making around 500 to the wheels, guess I better do my research on that cause my head is coming off soon for a good upgrade.
 

Spool'n Spyder

Proven Member
119
2
Feb 2, 2005
West Monroe, Louisiana
I've been trying to decide the same. I have a 4g64 and i'm about to do the dohc head swap. My hp goal is 300-350 and I know that the 2g head has better throttle response and mid-range and the 1g head has better top end. I would go with a 2g head except I have some friends here in town with 1g' s and I can get a complete head, mani, tb, and pretty much everything else to do the swap for 50 bucks. I'm wondering if its a BIG difference in the 2 heads or if I wont really be able to tell a difference.

Thanks, Nathan
 

Scrymerr

Proven Member
1,370
4
Sep 22, 2002
Vacaville, California
Spool'n Spyder said:
I've been trying to decide the same. I have a 4g64 and i'm about to do the dohc head swap. My hp goal is 300-350 and I know that the 2g head has better throttle response and mid-range and the 1g head has better top end. I would go with a 2g head except I have some friends here in town with 1g' s and I can get a complete head, mani, tb, and pretty much everything else to do the swap for 50 bucks. I'm wondering if its a BIG difference in the 2 heads or if I wont really be able to tell a difference.

Thanks, Nathan

As much as other's might argue, I don't think it is as big of a deal as people might say. Plus with your higher compression I don't think it will be too big of a deal.
 

BrokenTsi

Proven Member
1,832
29
May 3, 2003
Rome, New_York
In order to really get down onto a 2g head to make it a better investment than a 1g ported head, you need a flowbench and to know what your doing. That being said, i strongly suggest just porting a 1g head.

Also, 1mm oversized valves really arent necessary in most applications. If your already trapping over 130mph go for it if youd like.

Nice light port job is all thats needed, maybe switch to some ferrea valves, upgrade the valvetrain and go with fp2's or 272's. Keep it simple. Stock head has put down sick numbers.
 

Scrymerr

Proven Member
1,370
4
Sep 22, 2002
Vacaville, California
BrokenTsi said:
In order to really get down onto a 2g head to make it a better investment than a 1g ported head, you need a flowbench and to know what your doing. That being said, i strongly suggest just porting a 1g head.

Also, 1mm oversized valves really arent necessary in most applications. If your already trapping over 130mph go for it if youd like.

Nice light port job is all thats needed, maybe switch to some ferrea valves, upgrade the valvetrain and go with fp2's or 272's. Keep it simple. Stock head has put down sick numbers.

I agree, however I would not even go so far as to port the 1g head. Like you said not much can be done without a flow bench, and stock 1g head should be fine. As far as valves, I agree as well that 1mm OS is not needed, however if you are considering replacing stock valves for whatever reason, go aftermarket. Once you decide that you will be going aftermarket, 1mm OS is the same price, and the cost to install them (from the shops I remember talking to) although i dont have an amount, was not much. In addition the the 1mm OS valves being better flowing, they are lighter and when nitrited reduce friction. No matter what level you are at reducing weight and friction is always a good thing! Whichever route you go (stock, aftermarket, or aftermarket oversized) I am sure you will be happy.
 
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