building 500+ whp 98 gsx, suggestions

[ACKERSON]

The divided flange T4 or the T3 housing will not spool faster than the mistu hotside. They will flow much better though.

 

[larsrya8]

You can use evil_eagle's setup to help judge what you do and don't need to make 500HP. He made 477HP on pump gas with the wheels slipping, so he probably was making at least 500. On race gas, he made more than 600HP. With a 50-shot, almost 700HP.

For those too lazy to click:

Mods are 2.0l
fp3575 turbo
ported 2g exhaust manifold
AEM EMS
JMfab SMIM
SBR race FMIC
8.5 ross pistons
crower rods
stock head with OEM valves with little port work on the exhaust side only
crower valve springs and retainers
272/272 cams
1000cc injectors
ect ect.

You may make a tad less power than that with DSMLink instead of AEM, but it probably won't be that noticable. Note that he only used 1000cc injectors, a stock 2G exhaust manifold, and a 2.0 liter motor. The FP3575 has bigger wheels than the FP3065, but the same turbine housing, so if it can flow enough for the power he made it should be fine. The stock exhaust manifold was probably holding him back, so the 3575 was probably behaving more like a 3065. That's just my guess though. He also speculated that the 2G manifold was holding him back.

I would vote against the stroker since torque breaks things, and your goal is to have horsepower, not torque. The spool-up and powerband of the stroker would be rediculous; however, as you can see above your choice of a FP3065 on a 2.0 liter should meet your goals. The ball-bearing design of the FP3065 will help make up for the extra "lag", and DSMLink has a few things that can help get rid of that too.

My suggestion is to look at the setups that people with 500+HP have, and then decide which turbo to go with from that data. That would be more productive than asking people that aren't making that kind of power to speculate as to what is needed. For instance: you definitely don't need a full T4 turbo to make 500HP. Finding out what you really need and don't need will also save you money in the end.

 

[mirkoelek]

You can use evil_eagle's setup to help judge what you do and don't need to make 500HP. He made 477HP on pump gas with the wheels slipping, so he probably was making at least 500. On race gas, he made more than 600HP. With a 50-shot, almost 700HP.

For those too lazy to click:

Mods are 2.0l
fp3575 turbo
ported 2g exhaust manifold
AEM EMS
JMfab SMIM
SBR race FMIC
8.5 ross pistons
crower rods
stock head with OEM valves with little port work on the exhaust side only
crower valve springs and retainers
272/272 cams
1000cc injectors
ect ect.

You may make a tad less power than that with DSMLink instead of AEM, but it probably won't be that noticable. Note that he only used 1000cc injectors, a stock 2G exhaust manifold, and a 2.0 liter motor. The FP3575 has bigger wheels than the FP3065, but the same turbine housing, so if it can flow enough for the power he made it should be fine. The stock exhaust manifold was probably holding him back, so the 3575 was probably behaving more like a 3065. That's just my guess though. He also speculated that the 2G manifold was holding him back.

I would vote against the stroker since torque breaks things, and your goal is to have horsepower, not torque. The spool-up and powerband of the stroker would be rediculous; however, as you can see above your choice of a FP3065 on a 2.0 liter should meet your goals. The ball-bearing design of the FP3065 will help make up for the extra "lag", and DSMLink has a few things that can help get rid of that too.

My suggestion is to look at the setups that people with 500+HP have, and then decide which turbo to go with from that data. That would be more productive than asking people that aren't making that kind of power to speculate as to what is needed. For instance: you definitely don't need a full T4 turbo to make 500HP. Finding out what you really need and don't need will also save you money in the end.

I will pretty much know what else i would need, and i do have a lot of other stuff already done .. mine main problem is what turbo and what shortblock i should go with....(dont have much experience with it) this stock 7-bolt keep me of pushing more boost (just afraid of it) ... I think i will stick with 2.0l or i may search more about 2.1l destroker (it seem to be expensive) .... now there is fp3575 that jumped into the game... i wanna make 10sec eclipse and i believe with 550whp i should be able to reach it... this could take some time but i have i lot of time and will ...

 

[GILZTSIAWD]

I honeslty would not waste the extra money on the destroker. A built 2.0 can be had much cheaper and will be plenty for your goals. If you wanted you could go with 9:1 compression pistons to help a little bit with spool time, but it will narrow down your window for tuning somewhat. I think the 3065 turbo would be plenty for your goals also, 3575 would be good if you were wanting to make about 650 IMO. Another good turbo you might want to look at is the SCM61 from Precision turbo. That is the turbo that I run and I love it. I am only pushing about 400 hp right now, but that is on stock head/cams, etc. I have alot of room to tune alot more out of it and have already ran an 11.5 with 25 lbs boost. The tranny is out right now, but as soon as it gets back together we will see some 10's on stock head/cams and with some heavy 17's that weight 24 lbs a piece without tires on them! I also love the spool time on it, spools up by 4500. It is also ALOT cheaper, especially by the time you buy the o2 housing and exhaust and everything to use with the 3065 or 3052 or 3575.

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

I'm sure you will hear different, but in my opinioin there are no real major advantages to it. I can go into detailed explanation if you want, but to make it simple: It cost a lot more for very little gain in most vehicles.

If you don't mind waiting until 5500 rpms for the turbo to spool then stick with the 2.0/GT35R combo, if you want a quicker spool and more low end/midrange torque go with a larger diplacement engine like the 2.3 stroker or a 2.4 hybrid.

I weigh in at 3300lbs with me in the car and I trap 126-127mph on 26-27Psi on a Stock 6bolt shortblock, Head has manley springs and Viton valve seals and FP2s... That equates to somewhere in the low 500AWP range My GT35R Does not spool at 5500rpm I get 15psi @ 4000rpms and Full boost @ 4200rpms.... I Just put on a JM Fab SMIM and switched to the GM Maft This had made the car pull even more insane in the upper power band... I'm almost certain I can get 130mph @ the same 26-27psi.. But I think I'll run 30psi just to see if I can go higher than 130mph... And yes I drive this to work Every Single day as this is my only car

 

[BGRIPTP]

Don't waste your money with the strocker. You should hit full boost on a 2.0 with a GT35r under 4500rpms. You can also use DSM Link's antilag. Once the GT35r starts to build boost, its builds the rest of the boost within 2-300rpm's.

 

[Slippi84]

Yeah I would stay 20l and rev high. Speakin of evil eagle he has a write up you shoudl go check comparing the 3065 and the 3575. The diffrence between those two will be almost identical to the diffrence between the 3065 and the gt35r if you go t3 with the gt35r. Both are capable of makin the power you want but of course the 3065 wil spool faster but be harder to make the power and the gt36r will spoll slower yet be easier to make big power. If you plan on dd or even driving the car on the street I would go 2.0 3065 fp2x cams and either JM smim or magnus and with the rest of your mods you should be good. They're right the 2600 won't hold up with street disk but with a 6 puck you would be fine.

 

[sweet97]

I can't speak for the turbo's mentioned here but I have heard that they are all good.
I do have the JM SMIM and can recommend it for your intake and at $450. it's a deal. I have 950cc FIC inj's which should yield 500awhp but FIC also has an 1150cc injector out which may be more suited to the larger of the turbo's.
For cams I have the answer hands down. Crower stage 4's.
I had HKS 272's and they are nice cams. 213* duration at .050" lift in and out with lifts of .406" and .386". Well proven for 15 years. The Crowers I got when I went with the SMIM. 218* and 216* in/out at .050" lift. Lifts are .425" and .416". My rev limiter is set at 9K and I have hit it twice, these cams just keep pulling! Amazing. 500awhp on pump would be very difficult. Only a handful can do that. I have had the DN Performance tubular exhaust but I am trying the SBR cast with what I read are HUGE runners. My Holset turbo with Bullseye turbine is heavy so the DN has trouble holding it so I am selling the replacement they sent me. I can't recommend an exhaust manifold either.
I guess I will stop with the SMIM and the Crowers, for sure the Crowers!!! Mark
PS: I realize cam specs do not tell the whole story behind a cam grind, my point being the Crowers do hve more lift and duration on a newer design lobe. Also TUNING, Evil Eagle showed the importance of tuning.

 

[Spyderman7]

I'd go with a 2.3 and the GT 35R .I have a 2.3 with a T360-1 and made 432 awhp at 20 psi on pump and reving to 8200 with eagles no problem and a stock trans . Im at full boost by 3800 rpm.I was running out of fuel with walbro an 6 an line and never saw any nock on 93 octane. Waithing to get back on the dyno. But i go with a 2.3 (makes bigger cams and turbos very easily steet driven

 

[Slippi84]

I'd go with a 2.3 and the GT 35R .I have a 2.3 with a T360-1 and made 432 awhp at 20 psi on pump and reving to 8200 with eagles no problem and a stock trans . Im at full boost by 3800 rpm.I was running out of fuel with walbro an 6 an line and never saw any nock on 93 octane. Waithing to get back on the dyno. But i go with a 2.3 (makes bigger cams and turbos very easily steet driven

Your running out of fuel or atleast it seems that way cause your on pump gas. A walbro if rewired with 6an lines will easily support 500hp so you should not be running out of fuel at 432whp. WHat size injectors are you using. By the way you don't see many guys reving real high like that with strokers how does the car feel when you get up that high in the rpms.

 

[1SloColt]

Where to start?? For the guys sayin a 2600 isn't gonna hold 500-600whp, ask Shep how deep into the 9s he got with his 2600 and street disk before going to a puck and helping him none. 272s work, but there are too many other better cams out nowadays for less money: Fp2x, FP3s, crower stage 4s, so on and so forth. A 35r on a 2.0L will see 20psi of boost somewhere in the range of 4200rpm. Its a street turbo with very good power capabilities and should make 500ish around 28-30psi on a 2.0L with a good set of cams, SMIM and the rest of your mods. A heavily ported 2g manifold should suit you well.

 

[Spyderman7]

I running 850 at 72 % but fuel pressure droping off after 7500 and it was rewired . Also on the high reving it seems to smooth out and loooks like it wants to keep going.Now i have 10an lines with A1000 ex fuel pump

 

[Slippi84]

Where to start?? For the guys sayin a 2600 isn't gonna hold 500-600whp, ask Shep how deep into the 9s he got with his 2600 and street disk before going to a puck and helping him none. 272s work, but there are too many other better cams out nowadays for less money: Fp2x, FP3s, crower stage 4s, so on and so forth. A 35r on a 2.0L will see 20psi of boost somewhere in the range of 4200rpm. Its a street turbo with very good power capabilities and should make 500ish around 28-30psi on a 2.0L with a good set of cams, SMIM and the rest of your mods. A heavily ported 2g manifold should suit you well.

I agree with everything except a gt35r won't see full boost by 4200 on a stock compression 2.0l. I think 4500-4600 seems more realistic.

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

I agree with everything except a gt35r won't see full boost by 4200 on a stock compression 2.0l. I think 4500-4600 seems more realistic.

A few posts back I just mentioned I have a .63 A/R T3 GT35R on a STOCK 7.8:1 Compression 6bolt shortblock.. I make 26psi @ 4200rpms 1SloColt Is 100% accurate on his reply. You will make 500+AWHP easily with those mods and a stock 2.0L I have and so have many others. BTW im still on an ACT 2600 with a Street disk with no slippage yet.

 

[1SloColt]

I agree with everything except a gt35r won't see full boost by 4200 on a stock compression 2.0l. I think 4500-4600 seems more realistic.

Do you have a 35r car? Have you tuned 35r stock compression motor cars? I run the same compressor as a 35r but a larger turbine, and I see 20psi at 4200-4250 rpm on a standard thrust bearing. I have 4 friends who all run 35r's on 7.8:1 compression or lower. 2 of them run mitsu bolt-on PTE housing 35r's, one runs a .68 t4 35r on a 7.5:1 compression motor, and the other runs a .63 t3 35r on a bone stock 6 bolt shortblock. The PTE housing 35r's spool right around 4000 RPM at 22psi, both running pretty much identical setup stock 6 bolt bottom ends with DSMlink, 3" exhaust, cams. The t3 car spools 24psi at 4250rpm on his 7.8:1 stock bottom end. The t4 car sees 30psi at 4800rpm. I helped build the t3 35r car and I've driven it. As you can see I've had my fair share of experience with gt35 turbine wheeled turbos.

 

[91-gsx]

Do you have a 35r car? Have you tuned 35r stock compression motor cars? I run the same compressor as a 35r but a larger turbine, and I see 20psi at 4200-4250 rpm on a standard thrust bearing. I have 4 friends who all run 35r's on 7.8:1 compression or lower. 2 of them run mitsu bolt-on PTE housing 35r's, one runs a .68 t4 35r on a 7.5:1 compression motor, and the other runs a .63 t3 35r on a bone stock 6 bolt shortblock. The PTE housing 35r's spool right around 4000 RPM at 22psi, both running pretty much identical setup stock 6 bolt bottom ends with DSMlink, 3" exhaust, cams. The t3 car spools 24psi at 4250rpm on his 7.8:1 stock bottom end. The t4 car sees 30psi at 4800rpm. I helped build the t3 35r car and I've driven it. As you can see I've had my fair share of experience with gt35 turbine wheeled turbos.

did the ones with the pte housing feel about the same as the others or did the pte housing seem to be a restriction?
later

 

[AL92]

Looks like an interesting thread.
I am almost in a position to comment on a few things in here. I have my 2.4 almost in my car. I have all the mods in my sig going in at same time.
I finally after much thinking about FP3052 or 3565 decided on the tried and true FP3065.
My car is more street than track and figured a bit lower spool out of it than a GT35.
Figure on seeing full spool at 3800 maybe with my 2.4
I went with the crower stage 3 cams. I like a bit smoother idle in this car ,Could have easily went stage 4 or maybe 5 but the stroker will be set at 7500 to 8000 max redline.
I went with jm fab intake. Magnus is out to lunch on pricing and never responded to even one email from me on anything.
I am trying the gt manifold for now if it don't work well then go to the evo ported.
I have water /alco kit that can use.
Went with Fic 950s and 6 an lines, supra tt pump rewired and sx afpr for now. Can upgrade to 8 an pretty easily if have to later but doubt will need to. Seen some freakin fast cars on 6 an or even stock lines.
So hoping for a quick car when the stuff is all in there in a few weeks.
The gt35R sounds like a wicked turbo also and should work fine..some very very fast cars are running it.

 

[sleepy98gsx]

I agree with it being a waste of extra money to go with the destroker 2.1..i'm reminded of a quote that i read somewhere on this forum once and it made me kinda chuckle at some of the stroker setups.."Shep is still running a 2.0L for a reason.." No need to go with anything bigger than your 2.0. You'll enjoy the full powerband rather than the low/mid power.

The FP3065 is the turbo i would recomend to go with, i've seen several experiences with 450hp-500hp setups on a 35r and they themselves said it was an overkill turbo.

 

[snox135]

I agree with it being a waste of extra money to go with the destroker 2.1..i'm reminded of a quote that i read somewhere on this forum once and it made me kinda chuckle at some of the stroker setups.."Shep is still running a 2.0L for a reason.." No need to go with anything bigger than your 2.0. You'll enjoy the full powerband rather than the low/mid power.

Well if we were all trying to achieve the same goals as Shep them they may be good advice. But alot of us use our cars for DD's, autocross, or other adventures besides drag racing. So we don't need to rev to 9.5k+, and a stroker properly built will rev to 9k (if you wanted to). I'm still not sure why one person one the internet said you can't make any topend power with a stroker and know everyone seems to believe it and repeat it. A stroker motor has a much better powerband for street driven cars.

 

[v2ner]

Well if we were all trying to achieve the same goals as Shep them they may be good advice. But alot of us use our cars for DD's, autocross, or other adventures besides drag racing. So we don't need to rev to 9.5k+, and a stroker properly built will rev to 9k (if you wanted to). I'm still not sure why one person one the internet said you can't make any topend power with a stroker and know everyone seems to believe it and repeat it. A stroker motor has a much better powerband for street driven cars.

Strokers can make boat loads of top-end power but I wouldn't go as far as saying they have a much better powerband for the street.

With the 3065, 10s on full weight is hard/500WHP is not so hard. Alot easier with a 35R. My 35R spoolup = 27psi@4400 RPMs. 2.0L. 40psi@~5200 RPMs

 

[Slippi84]

Do you have a 35r car? Have you tuned 35r stock compression motor cars? I run the same compressor as a 35r but a larger turbine, and I see 20psi at 4200-4250 rpm on a standard thrust bearing. I have 4 friends who all run 35r's on 7.8:1 compression or lower. 2 of them run mitsu bolt-on PTE housing 35r's, one runs a .68 t4 35r on a 7.5:1 compression motor, and the other runs a .63 t3 35r on a bone stock 6 bolt shortblock. The PTE housing 35r's spool right around 4000 RPM at 22psi, both running pretty much identical setup stock 6 bolt bottom ends with DSMlink, 3" exhaust, cams. The t3 car spools 24psi at 4250rpm on his 7.8:1 stock bottom end. The t4 car sees 30psi at 4800rpm. I helped build the t3 35r car and I've driven it. As you can see I've had my fair share of experience with gt35 turbine wheeled turbos.

I run a even smaller turbo similar to the 3065 and I don't see full boost by 4200 on a stock 6 bolt with stock compression. So I'm callin bs put up some dyno or logs showing these fast spoolin stock compression gt35r cars. My bolt on gt14 isn't gonna see full boost till around 4300 and that's smaller than a gt35r not by much but still and I"m duall bb to so you can't say that's the reason. Especially not with a t3 housing your not gonna see bost like that unless you your exhaust cam retarded a tooth or so.

Edit : By the way someone said 20psi well shit if that's what your boostin till of course your gonna see full boost faster try running boost where that turbo is designed to be run in the 25-30psi range and post some logs cause I would love to see you spool that fast to 30psi. If you do my next mod will be whatever it is your using.

 

[AL92]

Exactly street driven cars hard to beat a nice 2.3 or 2.4.The 2.0 sucks big time off boost!! Its like 120hp off boost.Around town this is really noticeable in the first couple gears of boost.On the highway you can bang a downshift and get the turbo spooling fast.
Around town with the big turbos you really will like a 2.3 or 2.4.
My car is 99% street car.I will likely set my rev limit a conservative 7500 mabye 8000 absolute tops. It might be capable of going to 9000 but not going to chance it.Maybe would have if would have known about the new eagle forged cranks. I think the 2.4 crank is a weak point as we have seen some posts with 2.3 and 2.4 crank disaster stories.
So because of this used a low mileage crank that never had spun bearings or anthing car was rearended. Polished it only and keeping the redline conservative. If it breaks well just have to get a forged eagle next time around.

 

[v2ner]

Exactly street driven cars hard to beat a nice 2.3 or 2.4.The 2.0 sucks big time off boost!! Its like 120hp off boost.Around town this is really noticeable in the first couple gears of boost.On the highway you can bang a downshift and get the turbo spooling fast.

I guess I can't really tell.

Around town with the big turbos you really will like a 2.3 or 2.4.
My car is 99% street car.I will likely set my rev limit a conservative 7500 mabye 8000 absolute tops. It might be capable of going to 9000 but not going to chance it.Maybe would have if would have known about the new eagle forged cranks. I think the 2.4 crank is a weak point as we have seen some posts with 2.3 and 2.4 crank disaster stories.
So because of this used a low mileage crank that never had spun bearings or anthing car was rearended. Polished it only and keeping the redline conservative. If it breaks well just have to get a forged eagle next time around.

WTF Your redline is already at 7500 RPMs, you can set it to 8000 RPMs without even changing internals (but I recommend cams). I don't know if you're speaking from experience.

 

[mirkoelek]

My closest decision for right now would be: doing 6-bolt swap and staying with 2.0l. Upgrade the internals (eagle rods and ross pistons), 1g head ported, jmf IM, fp cams (2x probably) , and fp3065 seems to be the best way to go....

i hope with this i should be able to hit 550hp...

i've already instaled Water/methanol injection, that wil help...

I'm just kinda getting ready for all this... the money i wont have till end of the year...

 

[AL92]

I would go for a 2.3 if you are going FP3065 .Just need a crank and eagle has a beautiful forged one for like 800 bucks US!! I would have used the eagle crank if it had been out when I had my 2.4 done its just new on the market. Good piece of mind.

If you stay 2.0 I would go FP3052. And if you think you aren't quite getting the power you want add a nitrous setup.With water/alco injection on the 3052 with a 2.0 you would likely get as much power as the 3065 on just pump and have much quicker spool up and better power band on the street but hey its its personal choice!

I went FP3065 as I had the 2.4.