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BOV Vacuum Line Confirmation

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Chumpaumpalumpa

Proven Member
1,554
303
Jun 16, 2014
La Habra, California
I have a greddy type s rep bov with strengthened diaphragm. After searching, I believe I need to run a vacuum hose from the bottom nipple located in the middle of the bov
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to the nipple located above runner #2. Am I correct?
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there is a strong vacuum on the bottom nipple even under idle, and if i put my finger over it the idle speed rises. also the boost gauge sits in vacuum on idle, shouldn't it sit at 0psi like it does when the car is off?[DOUBLEPOST=1418063052][/DOUBLEPOST]http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/compressor-surge.487769/#post-153482197
This is the problem i am having and i think the bov is causing it. i know it's not surge now because i can hear the turbo when i let off whistles still and does not stop whistling but only slows down. also there is a very rich condition between shifts, which points to a leak as well.
 
Yes top nipple on BOV to nipple above second runner would be the basic recommended configuration.
 
Just use the top nipple for your line. Also you need to get the spring and adjustment right for your car. The super heavy spring might be to much for your setup. And if it's hasn't been adjusted Is probably causing your issues. You have the bov recirc properly?
 
Just use the top nipple for your line. Also you need to get the spring and adjustment right for your car. The super heavy spring might be to much for your setup. And if it's hasn't been adjusted Is probably causing your issues. You have the bov recirc properly?
How do i know how to adjust it properly because i believe mine is adjustable. Also, isn't it sucking in unfiltered air then since its not plugged? What does that nipple even for and why shouldn't i hook it up? I'm at 20 psi BTW.
 
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The bov is not made to have both hooked up thats why. Just hook the top one up and run it as others have recommended. If it really bothers you just get a new 1g bov. I think most of us on here have picked one up for 30 dollars or less.[DOUBLEPOST=1418065184][/DOUBLEPOST]And remember to not t your bov line with anything else. Should have its own dedicated line from intake mani.
 
The bov is not made to have both hooked up thats why. Just hook the top one up and run it as others have recommended. If it really bothers you just get a new 1g bov. I think most of us on here have picked one up for 30 dollars or less.[DOUBLEPOST=1418065184][/DOUBLEPOST]And remember to not t your bov line with anything else. Should have its own dedicated line from intake mani.
it does :) so is it bad that it sucks air though there and that its unfiltered air? should I block it off?
What is the purpose of the quick release? how is it different than the regular method?
 
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To adjust you use the top bolt. You want the valve to be just slightly closed at idle but closes tight upon boost. You also want to make sure it's opening fast enough and far enough when you let off the gas. With my old greddy I actually had to change the spring. It's was way to stiff and wouldn't open properly, giving a flutter and comp surge sound. Once I found the proper spring and adjusted right worked perfect! The bottom port is simply a quick release not sure how to say it any diff. Lol
 
To adjust you use the top bolt. You want the valve to be just slightly closed at idle but closes tight upon boost. You also want to make sure it's opening fast enough and far enough when you let off the gas. With my old greddy I actually had to change the spring. It's was way to stiff and wouldn't open properly, giving a flutter and comp surge sound. Once I found the proper spring and adjusted right worked perfect!
Great! Is it just the PSHHH sound after its properly adjusted?
so should i block off that nipple since it is sucking in unfiltered air?
 
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Don't block that off. That nipple is for dodge mod type function. U can apply pressure to the valve to hold high boost. The ubfiltered air its sucking isn't going into your engine.
 
If you want to run the second (lower) port you tee off the same line from the compressor housing to waste gate. It goes before your boost controller.
 
That port would pressurize the area that exists between the diaphragm and the top of the actual valve. For the tenth time. Don't cap it off. Your bov is designed so that it can function similar to using both ports on a waste gate.
 
That port would pressurize the area that exists between the diaphragm and the top of the actual valve. For the tenth time. Don't cap it off. Your bov is designed so that it can function similar to using both ports on a waste gate.
I understand that, I wont. I'm just asking what would happen if it were capped off, would it grenade the turbo? and why does the idle change if you put your finger over it?
 
I am pretty sure most people dont cap it so it works properly. I doubt many people purposely do that so your responses to who messed up their car will be nil. Just leave it uncapped or cap it on your car and live with the results man.
 
I'm not going to cap it, as recommended but since the air doesn't go into the engine, where does it go? Out the BOV?[DOUBLEPOST=1418087605][/DOUBLEPOST]This is how mine is set up right now and since i bought the car, It is the line the covers the "V" in "16 Valve"
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I'll Try adjusting it then and report my findings[DOUBLEPOST=1418155869][/DOUBLEPOST]can i adjust the BOV while doing a boost leak test so i know it will hold at my boost?
 
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Sure, just make sure there is vacuum pressure on the vac line in the bov or it will leak at like 5psi!
Awesome. thanks for the heads up. and when i'm adjusting i should turn that bolt to the right to tighten it and hopefully solve the problem, correct? sorry, still a noob to forced induction stuff
 
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