BOV Vacuum Line Confirmation

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

cool havent fiddled with it yet, im gunna while i do a boost leak test this weekend hopefully

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

ok so i fiddled with the screw....... and nothing...... i mean i could feel the screw getting tighter or loser, but te sound and effect did not change at all so now i am

 

[synthetek]

Take it apart and see if the diaphragm is torn or if it looks like anything is messed up inside , but its probably time to get a 1g BOV, an NRG or something that works.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Take it apart and see if the diaphragm is torn or if it looks like anything is messed up inside , but its probably time to get a 1g BOV, an NRG or something that works.

Would i have to dodge mod it for running 27psi? Any idea where/who I can get from thats not crap?

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Ok, I performed a boost leak test with the compressor regulator set and verified that it was putting out 25psi. there was one leak directly off the turbo that I fixed, but there was air shooting out of a few other places that concerned me. As I am new to forced induction, this was my first boost leak test I've seen/done in person and do not know if what it did would be considered "normal". The first spot I noticed was out of this bolt connected to the MBC, which is set to 20psi. Turning the regulator down to 20 psi make the leak much much smaller from this hole, so I assume it is supposed to be there but am not 100%

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The next place I noticed was out of the bottom nipple of the CBV that is under vacuum during idle but during the test had high pressure air coming out even if I adjusted the bolt on the top of the CBV.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Next place was out of the oil dipstick. The rubber part that is supposed to seal this is hard so I assume the leak in this case is to be expected?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Last spot is this hose which I plugged with a drill bit so I could check for leaks else where without having to hold it. I'm still not entirely sure what this does, all as I know is that it goes back into the intake.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I apologize for making myself look stupid and like a total noob but I kind of am haha. Thank you everyone for the very helpful responses thus far, it is very much appreciated. Oh and I realize I need to replace the wires going to my radiator fans as they are the same color as the statue of liberty

 

[crimsondragon]

Your diaphragm is shot. Either replace the BOV or repair it. Everything else is expected is normal.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Your diaphragm is shot. Either replace the BOV or repair it. Everything else is expected is normal.

Thank you, will do. Should I replace the dipstick as well or is that not a big issue?

 

[crimsondragon]

You can try to replace the o rings. Bring it to an parts dealer and see if they can match it up. Shouldn't be too hard. Personally I don't think you'll ever leak oil out the top and if you do you got bigger issues.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Once I get a new CBV I'll post back my findings! Car runs amazing and I just ghetto rigged a cold air delivery system and the car feels incredible right now! Can't wait for the bov

 

[Dsmkauai]

Or you can rig up a spring system to hold the dipstick down. or by a 1g oem diostick from jnz and call it a day. And the hose you have a drill bit in, in the last pic. That's your crank case vent and is very important to have routed back into the intake tube going into the turbo. This helps pull air from your crank case so it's not building up and blowing seals.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Or you can rig up a spring system to hold the dipstick down. or by a 1g oem diostick from jnz and call it a day. And the hose you have a drill bit in, in the last pic. That's your crank case vent and is very important to have routed back into the intake tube going into the turbo. This helps pull air from your crank case so it's not building up and blowing seals.

Thanks man I thought it might be something like that. I really need to get a service manual! Anyways, the new problem is that when I went for a drive today, I saw 25 psi on the top of 4th gear so I shut it down because on 91 octane that much boost is no bueno! The MBC is set to the minimum setting, so do I have to buy a new one or can I replace parts inside it. I THINK its a ball and spring type but I'm probably wrong.

 

[thomcasey]

If your motor is stock (cam and such), a properly sealed system will idle @ 20-24/hg vacuum when warm, just an FYI.

If you were to get a Greddy Electronic Boost Controller, that lower nipple would be used by it. It allows pressurized air from the compressor to press on the bottom of the diaphragm, allowing it to hold high boost.

 

[Seamus]

You didn't close the bleeder on the mbc did u? That may cause a boost spike from the set 20psi to 25psi. Also the second port on your bov has nothing to do with a greddy boost controller. Ignore that post.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

If the bleeder is that little hole in that bolt then no it is still open. The only thing I did was tighten up a couple hose clamps and put in a cold air delivery system thing that I made, but that is not pressurizing the intake any more I'm sure because there's no air box and it's not sealed there's places for unneeded air to go.p additionally, I saw 21 psi in 1st, when previously with the small leaks and such I never saw more than 18. Fourth was still 24-25 psi around 6k

 

[Seamus]

Well if u fixed the boost leak/bov and left the boost controller the same u'll. Have higher boost now.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Well if u fixed the boost leak/bov and left the boost controller the same u'll. Have higher boost now.

Right, I was saying that it fixed that issue. All I need now is to find a good 1g bov and figure out why the boost is spiking.

 

[rough]

Lot's of 1g bov's available! I have two avail i'd part with one. One of them is still on the stock 1g tube.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

So the diaphragm was torn and an o-ring needed replacing so I went ahead and did that. Additionally there were 2 springs in there so I removed one since it seemed it was too tight. The noise it makes now is the flutter very briefly then a whistle then a psshh sound. So it's still a little too tight i think? The idle is way lower and it's much richer between shifts now since it is no longer sucking in air from the bottom nipple. Have to adjust that and hopefully problem solved. Only problem is i don't know how to do that. Will be searching. I have LINK V2.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Bro you should have just went 1g bov! And yes finding a softer spring is sometimes the only way to get these kind to work. Also have you done a proper boost leak test yet?

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Bro you should have just went 1g bov! And yes finding a softer spring is sometimes the only way to get these kind to work. Also have you done a proper boost leak test yet?

Yes, to 25psi. Only leaks were out of the places I explained previously. With the CBV, if this one rips again, I'm going to rebuild it with some silicone I have sitting around and if THAT fails, 1G BOV time!

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

So it consistently flutters very quickly then turns into a whistle whoosh sound pretty much no matter the boost I let off at. Do I still need to loosen it, because I thought the whistle was related to having it set too loose but I'm probably wrong there.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Yes try backing the adj screw out abit. Boost doesn't really matter. You want it set up off the vacuum your car makes. I had to change my springs completely to get results i needed with my setup.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Yes try backing the adj screw out abit. Boost doesn't really matter. You want it set up off the vacuum your car makes. I had to change my springs completely to get results i needed with my setup.

My car makes peak vac of 23 inHg

 

[Dsmkauai]

Here's what you do. Take the bov return Line off the bov and plug the hose. Then look at the inside of bov and watch what happens when you adjust it tight and loose. What you want to do is find the spot where the bov just starts to close and leave it there. To tight and you get flutter or to many springs. To loose and you leak and it won't hold your boost. It takes a bit to get right, just keep trying you will find the spot! I got sick of messing with those bov and switched to a hks.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Here's what you do. Take the bov return Line off the bov and plug the hose. Then look at the inside of bov and watch what happens when you adjust it tight and loose. What you want to do is find the spot where the bov just starts to close and leave it there. To tight and you get flutter or to many springs. To loose and you leak and it won't hold your boost. It takes a bit to get right, just keep trying you will find the spot! I got sick of messing with those bov and switched to a hks.

Thank you I'll do that then. I'm going to make a new thread for the other issues since they're not related. Thank you for all your time and help in getting this issue resolved.