BOV changed tone? Car stalling now?

[Gamble97]

I fixed my exhaust leak at the wastegate and finally got the car out for some fun today. Car feels better than ever. One thing I did notice is that the bov used to flutter (and it has for as long as I can remember) and now it's more of a phst sound. Some times it might start to flutter then phst.

I fixed the exhaust leak and put on an iat bung and upped the boost a few pounds (from fixing the exhaust leak), added a ground strap and took off the sealed catch can from the valve cover to the intake pipe, that is it. So nothing has really changed to make it sound different.
Also if I lay off the gas it takes maybe 1/2 a second for the bov to open.
Anyone else experience anything like this?

So far I have tried the following as of last night:
Here is where I'm at so far.
Pulled out the spark plugs and they all look good.
Pulled out the maf and checked the screen, Nice and secure. Sprayed some maf cleaner on it too.
Pulled out the isc and tested it and everything ohms out to 29ohm or 30ohm, so that is good. I resealed it and put it back on.
Put the 11psi (uncolored) spring in the tial bov. Lost a screw in the process after it flew off (good thing I had a backup)
Checked out the diaphram and it's mint, no tears or nothing going on in there.
Pulled off the intake pipe and reclamped all the ends.
Inspected the vacuum line going from the valve cover to the intake. No problems there.
Inspected the vacuum line going from the SMIM to the tial bov and no problems found there either.
So I'm back to square one because it's still acting the same.

And if your going to say that it's because I'm venting a tial bov on a 2g maf, then you can leave because the car has been running PERFECT for over a year with no stalling or other issues with a tial and 2g maf. And no I will not switch to a maft. I want the car back to how it was running before.

 

[quayzar590awd]

A reduction in VAC is the ony thing I can think of. Or perhaps the bov itself it failing. Did you check for boost leaks? The bov should not flutter it should be a solid release. I dont know about the tial bov's in general so I can only assume from the brand its of half descent quality but it might be leaking already. I dont agree with atmos dumping but I know from others that they showed no symptoms or "decrease in performance" from venting. Then the same probs your having come up. I dont want to stir up the fire or anything but if you need to meter that air on you current set up maybe you should. The ecu adds the fuel for air that isnt there. You can tell easily if your running rich by reading the color of the plug's. Also try some rubber friendly solvent to break up some of the crud in the BOV line itself. That does happen from time to time. Test the bov as well. Any leaks or hesitation is not a good thing especially if you vent. Again I dont want to start anything. My opinion is just that, an opinion. I also want to ask how do your plugs look? Can you adjust the bov at all? Sorry for the ignorance I have never encountered a tial bov.

 

[Gamble97]

A reduction in VAC is the ony thing I can think of. Or perhaps the bov itself it failing. Did you check for boost leaks? The bov should not flutter it should be a solid release. I dont know about the tial bov's in general so I can only assume from the brand its of half descent quality but it might be leaking already. I dont agree with atmos dumping but I know from others that they showed no symptoms or "decrease in performance" from venting. Then the same probs your having come up. I dont want to stir up the fire or anything but if you need to meter that air on you current set up maybe you should. The ecu adds the fuel for air that isnt there. You can tell easily if your running rich by reading the color of the plug's. Also try some rubber friendly solvent to break up some of the crud in the BOV line itself. That does happen from time to time. Test the bov as well. Any leaks or hesitation is not a good thing especially if you vent. Again I dont want to start anything. My opinion is just that, an opinion. I also want to ask how do your plugs look? Can you adjust the bov at all? Sorry for the ignorance I have never encountered a tial bov.

You adjust the tial bov by changing the spring. I already changed it from a 9psi spring to an 11psi spring.
I did a boost leak test, found 2 small leaks and fixed them.
VAC stands for what? Vacuum _ _?
The car has always run rich at WOT I leave it at the low 11s/high 10s. At idle it's right around 14.7 where it should be. The a/f trims were not affected to my knowledge.

 

[quayzar590awd]

Vacuum yes sorry for my slang.. When you say put an 11 psi spring in the bov. Do you mean the bov can only hold back 11 psi or what?

 

[Gamble97]

Read this. Depending on your vacuum says what spring you should use.
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_bov50_sp.pdf

 

[TSIMonsteR]

Since you're running the TiAL on the 2G MAS. Do you have Links idle-air clamp box checked? (Before and Now?)

I would assume, that you fixed leaks and increased the amount of Vacuum in off boost conditions, the stronger vacuum aids the BOV in opening sooner/quicker, which in turn, causes less flutter (TiALs shouldn't really flutter) and more air comes out because the piston is opening wider, faster. (the sound change)

Here is vid. Mine and a couple of friends are exactly like this. Rarely or never any flutter.

tial bov - Google Videos

 

[Gamble97]

Since you're running the TiAL on the 2G MAS. Do you have Links idle-air clamp box checked? (Before and Now?)

I would assume, that you fixed leaks and increased the amount of Vacuum in off boost conditions, the stronger vacuum aids the BOV in opening sooner/quicker, which in turn, causes less flutter (TiALs shouldn't really flutter) and more air comes out because the piston is opening wider, faster. (the sound change)

Here is vid. Mine and a couple of friends are exactly like this. Rarely or never any flutter.

tial bov - Google Videos

Mine has never sounded like either of those vids. The one w/ the evo and the genesis.
I did not have the idle air clamp checked. I haven't tired it checked yet, I'm sure it would make a difference, but I don't want to bandaid another problem if I have one.
Plus there wasn't that option when I was on v2.

 

[97gstnick]

Did you double check all your vacuum lines and connections? Also go thru all the lines and carefully inspect them for holes.

 

[97gstnick]

Mine has never sounded like either of those vids. The one w/ the evo and the genesis.
I did not have the idle air clamp checked. I haven't tired it checked yet, I'm sure it would make a difference, but I don't want to bandaid another problem if I have one.
Plus there wasn't that option when I was on v2.

When I was on the stock maf for a little while, I used that idle air clamp option. It did help keeping it from stalling. Noticed it caused exhaust backfires a lot though.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

Mine has never sounded like either of those vids. The one w/ the evo and the genesis.
I did not have the idle air clamp checked. I haven't tired it checked yet,
Plus there wasn't that option when I was on v2.

I used it when I got my TiAL when I was on v2, so it was an option. (On V3 with SD now )

However, I assume that would be the stalling issue now. I am guessing(yet again) that when you had boost/vac leaks the car was already running rich when you shifted/closed the throttle plate so the change wasn't sudden or drastic enough to cause a stall. Now, however, you are running closer to optimal A/F and when the throttle plate closes, you are suddenly and drastically running pig rich and the ecu can't compensate fast enough to keep you from stalling. (sounds logical, in my head anyway)


EDIT** You said exhaust leaks.... crap, back to square one

 

[the_mork]

Possible obstruction within the vacuum hose going to your BOV? My forge valve did a similar thing and it had sucked up grease from the grease seal into the BOV nipple.

Are you sure you aren't looking at this backward? Could it be that the BOV is open, closing, then opening again? This was also an issue with my Forge valve problem. The car felt like crap.


As for venting I'm sure as hell not going to tell you what to do but with my current vented setup (running SD) I can tell you that I really would prefer I had an intake that had a recirc provision because I noticed a definite decrease in spool with varied throttle conditions. I don't worry about it much because I have an automatic transmission but it did force me to change my driving habits slightly.

 

[Gamble97]

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[snowborder714]

Read this. Depending on your vacuum says what spring you should use.
http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/w3_tial_bov50_sp.pdf

From what I've read on here, that chart isn't accurate for our application for some reason. I, as well as a lot of other people on here, are using the 7 psi spring without any problems. I get a nice solid release of the bov.

 

[Gamble97]

I know there are different charts for the old tial bov and for the tial q.

 

[snowborder714]

You have the older version it looks, correct? I couldn't find it in your profile.

 

[Gamble97]

I just got v3, and was wondering.
Ok this is odd. I did the boost leak test with soapy water like 3 or 4 times and couldn't find much besides 2 small leaks. Took the car out for emissions today and a coupler off the turbo popped off. I let the car cool and the tbolt clamp was tight but I can turn the nut by hand. wtf. I put it back on, tightened it up and drove home. No more sputter at 2-3k rpm. I didn't boost it, but it seems to be a lot more solid.
I'll change that clamp and repot back.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

From what I've read on here, that chart isn't accurate for our application for some reason. I, as well as a lot of other people on here, are using the 7 psi spring without any problems. I get a nice solid release of the bov.

I use the 7 as well

 

[97gstnick]

I just got v3, and was wondering.
Ok this is odd. I did the boost leak test with soapy water like 3 or 4 times and couldn't find much besides 2 small leaks. Took the car out for emissions today and a coupler off the turbo popped off. I let the car cool and the tbolt clamp was tight but I can turn the nut by hand. wtf. I put it back on, tightened it up and drove home. No more sputter at 2-3k rpm. I didn't boost it, but it seems to be a lot more solid.
I'll change that clamp and repot back.

The bolts on my clamps stripped fairly easily from over tightening.

 

[Gamble97]

I'm going to take her out tomorrow night for some WOT pulls and I will report back to see if my problems are gone.