The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Blue Smoke [Merged 7-9]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

WhiteCloud

20+ Year Contributor
471
0
Mar 16, 2004
California
After driving from Charlottesville, VA to Gainesville, FL to visit my best friend for his birthday, I got back into stop and go traffic in the city and noticed I was puffing some blue smoke when taking off from a stop. I'd never noticed this before the trip, so I'm inclined to think something during the trip caused it.

Symptoms:
1) Puffs a cloud of blue smoke shortly after revving engine in neutral.
2) Puffs a cloud of blue smoke while taking off in first gear, but not always noticeable.
3) Doesn't trail smoke like it would if it were a head gasket.
4) Turbo doesn't seem to have excessive shaft play, and boosts fine.
5) I'm burning some oil, but not a tremendous amount (I burned maybe 1/4-1/3 of a quart on the 700+ mile trip back to VA from FL.

I'm wondering what you guys think the problem is, judging from these symptoms.

I've been told to check the PCV valve, but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for (in terms of oil, residue, etc. on or in the valve!?), or if I should just be replacing that to see if it fixes the smoke.

What would your next step be if your car were puffing this blue smoke? Is there a way to tell if it is valve seals?

Thanks for the help,

Joe
 
Ok last question. How do I test the valve stem seals? Mine are new and I don't want to replace them unless they are the problem. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks Paul,

Tom
 
If it was the Valve Seals you should see oil on your plugs when you remove them right after you see the tail pipe smoke.
 
Ok last question. How do I test the valve stem seals? Mine are new and I don't want to replace them unless they are the problem. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks Paul,

Tom
If they're new, then they probably aren't bad. It very well may just be pushng oil due to poor crankcase evacuation. Fix that and see if the problem goes away.
 
My car use to do that untill I made a nice catch can. Check out how the vc is getting air and same to the pcv.
 
If they're new, then they probably aren't bad. It very well may just be pushng oil due to poor crankcase evacuation. Fix that and see if the problem goes away.

Here's a few diagrams of my old and new setup:

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YMS5ZqEQGebnHjPKmTOg9w"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/tomas.beblar/SMXUGTNvFaI/AAAAAAAAFDo/TYFa_ifjWEE/s400/old.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/tomas.beblar/CarsPics">Cars Pics</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ck4RCNaZuyurXIkGdTEZmg"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/tomas.beblar/SMXUGf3JHBI/AAAAAAAAFDw/SnA6vTIHEWE/s400/new.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/tomas.beblar/CarsPics">Cars Pics</a></td></tr></table>

Any problem with the new setup? Should I be running 2 filters to help relieve back pressure?

Thanks,

Tom
 
The old set-up is best. The vacuum in the intake manifold will draw out all the excess crankcase pressure. To me, it sounds like your current PCV valve is faulty, and is allowing boost to pass through and pressurize your crankcase. Replace your PCV valve with a brand new OEM one, and leave it hooked up like in your first diagram.
 
The old set-up is best. The vacuum in the intake manifold will draw out all the excess crankcase pressure. To me, it sounds like your current PCV valve is faulty, and is allowing boost to pass through and pressurize your crankcase. Replace your PCV valve with a brand new OEM one, and leave it hooked up like in your first diagram.

Yeah I think the old setup is best. I went to buy a aftermarket PCV and it leaked out of the box. The guy claimed it didn't and I blew through it and he was like they all leak a bit. I told him if it leaks like that when I blow through it imagine how it must leak with 15 PSI of boost. OMG

I've seem some setups that use check valves instead of the PCV valve. What do you think of those? Any recommendations?

Tom
 
Yeah I think the old setup is best. I went to buy a aftermarket PCV and it leaked out of the box. The guy claimed it didn't and I blew through it and he was like they all leak a bit. I told him if it leaks like that when I blow through it imagine how it must leak with 15 PSI of boost. OMG

I've seem some setups that use check valves instead of the PCV valve. What do you think of those? Any recommendations?

Tom
I haven't even ran a PCV valve in years. From what I can remember, aftermarket ones are "hit or miss", and the OEM ones had much lesser rate of out-of-the-box failure. I'd recommend an expensive trip to the dealership and buy one of theirs. Hopefully it gets the job done.
 
I haven't even ran a PCV valve in years. From what I can remember, aftermarket ones are "hit or miss", and the OEM ones had much lesser rate of out-of-the-box failure. I'd recommend an expensive trip to the dealership and buy one of theirs. Hopefully it gets the job done.

What are you running in place of a PCV? Do you use check valves? Those are supposed to be good up to 150 PSI. But I may need more than one because they are narrow and can't evacuate a lot of air.


Thanks,

Tom
 
What are you running in place of a PCV? Do you use check valves? Those are supposed to be good up to 150 PSI. But I may need more than one because they are narrow and can't evacuate a lot of air.
I don't have anything in place of it yet. I have a SMIM, so there is no provision for an OE style PCV valve.

As soon as I finish my other valve cover, I'll at least have something. The new one has -10 fittings welded onto it, and the baffling is "re-done" on the bottom side. I'll have two -10 lines running to a sealed aluminum catch can, and then one -10 or -12 line running from the car to my intake pipe. I'm going to rely on the vacuum under load in that pipe to evacuate the crankcase pressure.

If that doesn't work as well as I think it's going to, then I may try to utilize an electric vacuum pump from a Ford Powerstroke diesel.
 
I have been trying to diagnose this problem for a week now. When I start the car, a tiny bit of blueish-white smoke, then none at all until its completely warmed up. After warming up, it will start smoking and continue to do so. While driving it doesnt smoke, until I come to a stop. At which point it smokes while at a stop, and lets out a cloud of blueish-white smoke when I take off from the spot for about 5 feet, then no more smoke.
So far, I have...
performed a compression test...190-185-190-185
checked turbo...no shaft play side to side, nor in and out, no oil residue
checked my plugs...no oil, good/even burn
replaced PCV valve
installed oil catch can using inline oil filter...tiny bit of oil accumulated in past week
changed oil, made sure it is at 4.5 qt so that it is not overfilled
filled coolant to fill line...hasnt moved since

Any suggestions on what else to check?
 
my brother has the same problem on his 2g Gsx. he got a new 16g took care of it. had no shaft play but the seals were probably done.
 
Sounds like the turbo seals are beginning to fail. That is how my 14b began smoking before it smoked all the time.
 
You should take a picture of the blue smoke. it sounds kinda cool. Except that there could be something wrong with your turbo seals.
 
Is there any way to check for if it is the turbo seals? When I checked for shaft play, I noticed that there was no oil accumulated near the turbine wheel.
 
The best way is to take off the o2 housing from a turbo,and you deff will see some oil in there ;) cause when i blew my seal,i didn't had oil on intake side,no oil in ic piping nuttin.Then i took off the o2 housing from a turbo,and i was like WTF!!!!!!!! :(
 
I will definitely pull off the O2 housing and check then. If there is oil there, that definitely means the turbo is shot?
 
I have been trying to diagnose this problem for a week now. When I start the car, a tiny bit of blueish-white smoke, then none at all until its completely warmed up. After warming up, it will start smoking and continue to do so. While driving it doesnt smoke, until I come to a stop. At which point it smokes while at a stop, and lets out a cloud of blueish-white smoke when I take off from the spot for about 5 feet, then no more smoke.
So far, I have...
performed a compression test...190-185-190-185
checked turbo...no shaft play side to side, nor in and out, no oil residue
checked my plugs...no oil, good/even burn
replaced PCV valve
installed oil catch can using inline oil filter...tiny bit of oil accumulated in past week
changed oil, made sure it is at 4.5 qt so that it is not overfilled
filled coolant to fill line...hasnt moved since

Any suggestions on what else to check?

If the smoke smells like burn rubber then it's the valve steam seals are shot out. If it's the turbo, head gasket, piston rings or piston the smoke will be twice worst. Because I have this problem before. Hope this helps.
 
I just sprayed the bolts down with PB blaster. Could I just unbolt the downpipe from the O2 housing and check to see if there is oil in the O2 housing instead of removing it?
 
Just unbolted the downpipe, and checked inside the O2 housing, and there was no oil, just black soot. Shined a flashlight up and put my hand up there, and no oil at all, or on the O2 sensor. Now I'm stumped.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top