Blue Smoke [Merged 7-9]

[WhiteCloud]

After driving from Charlottesville, VA to Gainesville, FL to visit my best friend for his birthday, I got back into stop and go traffic in the city and noticed I was puffing some blue smoke when taking off from a stop. I'd never noticed this before the trip, so I'm inclined to think something during the trip caused it.

Symptoms:
1) Puffs a cloud of blue smoke shortly after revving engine in neutral.
2) Puffs a cloud of blue smoke while taking off in first gear, but not always noticeable.
3) Doesn't trail smoke like it would if it were a head gasket.
4) Turbo doesn't seem to have excessive shaft play, and boosts fine.
5) I'm burning some oil, but not a tremendous amount (I burned maybe 1/4-1/3 of a quart on the 700+ mile trip back to VA from FL.

I'm wondering what you guys think the problem is, judging from these symptoms.

I've been told to check the PCV valve, but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for (in terms of oil, residue, etc. on or in the valve!?), or if I should just be replacing that to see if it fixes the smoke.

What would your next step be if your car were puffing this blue smoke? Is there a way to tell if it is valve seals?

Thanks for the help,

Joe

 

[delta448]

Alright so I have had this problem with blue smoke coming out of my exhaust when I am decelerating. I have replaced the block 360 miles ago, the head was replaced 2k miles ago, and turbo was rebuilt like 20 miles ago. The car starts right up and drives fine but if I get on the boost and decelerate in gear, blue smoke comes out the exhaust. No smoke on start up or driving at a constant speed on the highway.

I boosted and came to a stop immediately after and I popped the hood to see smoke coming from around the farthest right on the exhaust manifold, it looks like oil is coming out around that port. My buddy that was driving behind me said oil got onto his truck when I boosted on the highway and was slowing down.WTF

I know I have to do a compression test but I am just trying to get some ideas because I won't be able to do anything to the car until the weekend.

When you rebuilt the engine, you used new piston rings and had the cylinder bores cleaned up with an overbore or a hone, didn't you? I sure hope so...

A newly built engine can increase in power and efficiency all the way up to as much as 20k miles, depending on how hard you drive it while breaking it in and what materials the rings and cylinders are made of. High vacuum occurs when you decelerate while in gear, especially if you're at high speed and downshift a gear. That high vacuum is probably pulling a lot of oil past the rings. Rings which either haven't worn enough to be sealing well, or else if reusing old ones, are too worn to still maintain a good seal.

You may also have an issue with the oil pressure to the turbo, but I'd place my money on another bet. Especially if the block was not bored and new moly rings were not used in the build.

Another thing to look for is excessive oily residue coming out of the PCV valve and/or a popping dipstick. When you get to higher boost levels are you seeing the smoke then too?

 

[97GsXfreak]

The block was bored and honed and used new eagle rods, brand new crank, ross pistons and rings, the works.

I do not see smoke under any boost or dip stick popping, the smoke is only after I boost. My pcv valve is not hooked to anything there is just a vacum hose hanging off it and the breather hose on the side of the valve cover is just hanging as well. I really need to do something with that I think but not sure on the best idea.

I also looked on Hahnracecraft.com and the install kit for the turbo I have recommends using the oil feed from the oil filter housing so I am loosing faith in the cheap fix of the oil feed line.

I just ordered a leak down tester from Summit Racing for 80 bucks because my local shop was going to charge me 90 to just do the test, so I figured why not have the tool and save money. I will give an update on Friday when I am with the car again (sucks working in a different state during the week).

 

[98gst14b]

They always say to get the oil from the housing (as did mine and it blew in 90 miles from excessive OP). Seriously its easy and cheap look into it.

 

[97GsXfreak]

I just did a leak down test and the results were perfect which is a relief that my new motor and head isn't shot. I got around 8%- leakdown in all the cylinders which is supposedly normal and definitely not enough to smoke like it is.

I brought my car to a local place after the test to see if they had an oil feed line, they didn't but I did end up talking to the guy who has 3 dsms and he took a look at my problem. He said he definitely thinks my problem is related around my pcv valve and breather off the valve cover. My pcv hose was put on one of my t bolt clamp bolts so it was sort of plugged and I took that off and the way home the car didn't really smoke at all except one time I downshifted really hard and it smoked a little but not as much. The guy said I really need a catch can and have proper ventilation because like I said I just have a hose going no where off the pcv valve and breather on the valve cover.

So my smoke is basically gone now but I am going to order a catch can and a new oil feed line and hopefully everything will be good. Thanks guys for you help.

Any recommendations for a cheap but nice catch can?

 

[Taylor3180]

Did a compression Test Today. From Timing Cover Over 52,50,150,152. So not good. I have decided to tear her down. With these numbers it could either be Head Gasket or Piston Rings correct? So by doing a head gasket I should get some new head studs correct? Also noticed that my Valve cover is cracked yey me when it rains it pours. Anyone got any ideas on brands for the head gasket or any good place to get the things I will be needing. So far my list consists of Piston Rings, head gasket, Head Studs, Valve Cover, Valve Cover Gasket. Any help will be appreciated. And my friends father has agreed to help me so labor is out of the question for once thankfully.

 

[TSiAWD666]

Is this problem just something that started over time or after some change to the car?

 

[Taylor3180]

See it's hard saying. You just drive it for so long and one day I noticed the smoke and everything so I didn't really notice it right away at any time.

 

[DeadsEvolution1]

+1 on the leak down test. You don't know where you are loosing compression from just yet. Head gasket a maybe, piston rings a probably but you still don't know. Valve stem seals tend to blow smoke when they are bad on warm up and long idles, usually not at other times. Do a leak down test. You can do it yourself if you have a compressor or you can take it to a shop. Be sure the shop knows what a leak down test is they confuse it with a compression test. Also The leak down will tell you where you are loosing compression at. You can always test the piston rings too. Warm your car up for a compression test, do it again but this time drop a cap of oil in each cylinder before you do it. If you number goes up in that clinder say from 50 to 90 etc than your piston rings are failing. If it stays consistant you know to do a leak down test for sure. That wet compression test is a quick way to determine if your rings are fried. My test was at 60 60 110 115 and with a wet it was 90 95 150 155. So Immediately I knew it was my rings. Good luck but try the leak down and wet compression test.

 

[Taylor3180]

Well by doing a wet compression test can't I find out if its valves or piston rings? Also someone said that my block could be cracked between the two cylinders?

 

[Taylor3180]

I just did a wet compression test as well and all the numbers came out around 180 wtf am I doing wrong?

 

[crisdiarata]

yes i agree with the terms

 

[97gst_spyder]

So I have looked through the forum and this thread (via google search) and cannot find anything on smoke during reverse, and idle (when coming to a stop). I have replaced the hq (felpro) with ARP L19's. PCV is new (3k ago) , and I tested with an air compressor, holds pressure up to 10 PSI. So I don't think its the problem at idle. The car has never smoked before, it white with a hint of blue.

What should I look at?

 

[Grescht]

Sounds like turbo seals to me, pretty much the same thing going on with my car.
Rebuilt head 5k miles ago and plugs are clean, so was the exhaust manifold when i took it apart for a new chinabay turbo(which is now on its last leg in 3 months).
Dont antilag ebay turbos.

I've been antilagging my chinabay evo3 for 30k. Best $200 I ever spent. No shaft play. I got a 1oclock Wednesday turbo.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

so my 1g is puffin out some blue smoke. at first i was thinking, rings, or valve seals. so i threw the compression tester on.

got about 140 on all cylinders, give or take 2-3. so neither of those. and all my plugs are perfect, no fouling whatsoever.
which leaves the turbo?

i looked and saw that the oil feed line it just beside where the manifold connects. so im thinking maybe, there is a seal gone and the oil is leaking directly into the exhaust and getting burned on its way out?

what do you think?

 

[DSM1G90]

I call it valve seals are not doing their thing too well if you see blue and the plugs aren't fouled ....

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

Check the turbo for shaft play, 140 is a bit low for compression, It should be around 164 psi., The service limit is 121 psi. Was the car warmed up when tested? And was the throttle at WOT? It could be worn valve guides or seals, It could also be the pcv system. But I would check the turbo first.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Check the turbo for shaft play, 140 is a bit low for compression, It should be around 164 psi., The service limit is 121 psi. Was the car warmed up when tested? And was the throttle at WOT? It could be worn valve guides or seals, It could also be the pcv system. But I would check the turbo first.

well 140 should be fine shouldnt it? still withing the service, and the differnce range of 14 psi?
checked pcv, it was good, i cleaned the filter anyways.
car wasnt warmed up, but i did hold the throttle wide open
there was a bit of shaft play, but very little. seems fine to me, no rubbing at all.

 

[LiquidX]

Lateral or axial play?

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Lateral or axial play?

not sure didnt pay that close attention. my hand was twisted in such an awkward position just to get my fingers in there. why? what do these mean?

also, it happened suddenly. just yesterday it started. probably has nothing to do with it but i got my cat. removed, then i drove it home, and noticed some blue smoke.

oh and it doesnt smoke at all on start up. once it warms up and idles is when it will puff out blueish white

 

[DSM1G90]

Lateral: up and down. Axial: back and forth. This is shaft play.

You should have a little lateral play since the bearings do "float" in the oil that feeds them (like main bearings with the crankshaft), but no axial play should be present.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Lateral: up and down. Axial: back and forth. This is shaft play.

You should have a little lateral play since the bearings do "float" in the oil that feeds them (like main bearings with the crankshaft), but no axial play should be present.

okay ill check for axial play tonight when i get off work
but after reading this thread more, its sounding alot like valve seals...

 

[GsX827]

I have already searched, and come to the conclusion there is a 95% chance, that my turbo seals are leaking oil.

The solution: Replace the turbo.

The problem: Lack of knowledge.

My question: Currently with the internet there are many different online parts stores. The quality of the parts and engineering used in making these parts vary from place to place. I have seen turbos new, used and rebuilt, ranging from $100-$700 and I was wondering the best bang for my buck in replacing the stock turbo. I am not trying to upgrade, I just want my car to be drivable again for as little as possible, but I do not want to buy a junk part that will need replacing again in 6 months-1 year.

I have a stock 1997 GsX Eclipse, its automatic with 165,000 miles. It is my daily driver and I have not modded it.

Thanks in advance to any and all that view this.

 

[RogueTalonTSI]

Anything true MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Ind) Is a good replacement for your stock turbo. A 14b can be had for cheap used from a trusted member on here and is a slight up grade to the hair dryer on it right now. The evo3 16g is a better replacement with great value. Forced performance has them for $499, and I see used ones for $300 all the time. I do believe you need a installation kit and J pipe but other than that its bolt on. Your best bet is to stay away from ebay, many of the turbos are inferior.

 

[Below Ambient]

I'll have to second the Evo III turbo from forced performance.... you do need to get a 2g install kit with it as well.... there are a ton of articles and videos on a 2g turbo install, its not very difficult...

 

[etay89]

I'd get a 14b. You will need an install kit for it. The reason why I say a 14b is because it's the most similar to the stock T25 in terms of size and performance. As mentioned before, you can get a used 14b cheap/rebuilt on here for $100-300.

A good install thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...2558-14b-install-2g-homebrew-install-kit.html

Also, there's always vfaq.com as well. The answers are all around. As far as time consumption, if you take you're time and do everything right and you're new at mechanics, it's a 3-4 hr job. You'll make a small power gain while leaving the car very reliable (I have a friend who has a 1g and a stock 14b turbo at 205k and counting).