BLT Results and compression test

[josh38127]

I did compression test today on my car with a different testing setup then mine.My results were......150..143..150..150...
.....................................1.....2......3......4

On My BLT I put it on the intake.I replaced the TB shaft seals,fuel injector seals(Head side)and the vac lines Due to leaks.Before It wouldn't hold 10lbs while with a commpressor set at 25lbs.Now with all replaced. pvc is capped off for the test. I can pressurize it to 20lbs it drop to 10lbs. about 8 seconds. 10 to 0 in about 10 seconds.Now for the questions.

How fast should my cars boost leak down.
What are all the places were I could leak.
Where should the dail pins on the cams be positioned.

I tried the BLT test with dail pins facing straight up..I pulled the vavle cover. I think Its leaking due to the valves.Is there a way to tell other then by ear.If the the valves are leaking could that cause rich running.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Your leaking boost too fast...On my car it takes about 30 minutes to bleed down to 0 psi from 20psi...

All the places you could leak...um theres A LOT....
J-pipe area...any intercooler coupler areas, intercooler, throttle body gaskets, t-body shaft seals, biss, intake manifold gasket, fuel injector gaskets/insulators, and vac line that is broken/missing...

I know there are more just down have the patience to type any more...

I always have my motor at TDC when doing a blt....you cant judge by the dowel pins all the time....stick a screwdriver in a sparkplug hole and make sure #1 is at TDC and dowel pins are at the 12 o' clock position

 

[josh38127]

Your leaking boost too fast...On my car it takes about 30 minutes to bleed down to 0 psi from 20psi...

All the places you could leak...um theres A LOT....
J-pipe area...any intercooler coupler areas, intercooler, throttle body gaskets, t-body shaft seals, biss, intake manifold gasket, fuel injector gaskets/insulators, and vac line that is broken/missing... I replaced all that no leaks...

I know there are more just down have the patience to type any more...

I always have my motor at TDC when doing a blt....you cant judge by the dowel pins all the time....stick a screwdriver in a sparkplug hole and make sure #1 is at TDC and dowel pins are at the 12 o' clock position

Thanks I'll double check that try agian tomarrow.I its the valves or something of that nature.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

No problem post back with where you had your leaks....but the stock pcv valve is known for leaking...even brand new from the factory....Your best bet would to put a 1 way check valve in between the pcv valve and port on the intake manifold...

 

[josh38127]

No problem post back with where you had your leaks....but the stock pcv valve is known for leaking...even brand new from the factory....Your best bet would to put a 1 way check valve in between the pcv valve and port on the intake manifold...

I am waiting for the check valve in the mail.I put a bolt in the PVC hose for testing. I did the soapy water deal Didn't find anymore leaks..I set the cams how you told me too. I noticed that when I pressurize my system. air would still blow out of the PVC valve and the other nipple on the valve cover.I removed the valve cover and listened for air leaks. I can hear it blowing up through the valves on 3..

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Is your motor at TDC? Number 1 piston at the top of its travel and both dowel pins at 12 o' clock?

The only reason I could think that your still getting air is a couple valves are still open and you seals are probably leaking... Or if all valves are closed your seals are really leaking...might be time for new valve stem seals...

What is the condition of the motor, miles, etc...
Also just wondering whats the condition of the turbo? If its blown is could give you bad reading...lots of blow-by as well....

What I do which is very tedious I might add is put the blt'er on the turbo and pull off the intercooler pipe on the hot-side of my intercooler block it off...check for leaks.....fix leaks if any.....Then put the blt'er on the intercooler hot side and I always check the intercooler...then put the blt'er on the cold side pipe off the intercooler...and plug off at the pipe nearest to the t-body....then last but not least just connect it to the t-body pipe....

I may seem overkill and take a bit of time but I believe its the best way to find every little leak...and since your not doing such a huge area at a time...theres less chance for leaks...

Jim

 

[josh38127]

Is your motor at TDC? Number 1 piston at the top of its travel and both dowel pins at 12 o' clock?

The only reason I could think that your still getting air is a couple valves are still open and you seals are probably leaking... Or if all valves are closed your seals are really leaking...might be time for new valve stem seals...

What is the condition of the motor, miles, etc...
Also just wondering whats the condition of the turbo? If its blown is could give you bad reading...lots of blow-by as well....

What I do which is very tedious I might add is put the blt'er on the turbo and pull off the intercooler pipe on the hot-side of my intercooler block it off...check for leaks.....fix leaks if any.....Then put the blt'er on the intercooler hot side and I always check the intercooler...then put the blt'er on the cold side pipe off the intercooler...and plug off at the pipe nearest to the t-body....then last but not least just connect it to the t-body pipe....

I may seem overkill and take a bit of time but I believe its the best way to find every little leak...and since your not doing such a huge area at a time...theres less chance for leaks...

Jim

I reread my book for the car. It looks like the timing is off. Thankfully I havn't tired to crank it yet..I hope thats the prob. I will correct it.And do everything you said tomarrow. thanks jim.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

No problem, I'll be waiting for results...

 

[pj91gsx]

The time the air is leaking out sounds good if you dont position the cams any special way. I never position them during a blt.

 

[Codester]

If you don't position the cams a certain way for the timing then you could have a very hard time doing a BLT. The cams might be in a position that let's the intake and exhaust valves open at the same time and you would never hold pressure. Just like a leak-down test has to be done when both valves in that cylinder are closed or it will never hold pressure.

 

[asg1089]

just a thought but are you doing a cold or a hot blt due to the piston rings sealing better when the motor is hot?

 

[josh38127]

Its update time. Got a big compresser I shot 40psi Into number 1 and I could hear a shit load of air coming from 2 the spark plug hole. So pulled the head.The last owner informed he replaced the headgasket.The head bolts weren't replaced and missing some washers were missing.

here are some pics of what i found

If yall wanna see more pics just ask.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

If you don't position the cams a certain way for the timing then you could have a very hard time doing a BLT. The cams might be in a position that let's the intake and exhaust valves open at the same time and you would never hold pressure. Just like a leak-down test has to be done when both valves in that cylinder are closed or it will never hold pressure.

^^^^EXACTLY!!!

I always position the motor at TDC, its the best way to know all the valves are closed plus it isnt like its hard to do either...


ekk that head looks like $#!* with all that carbon buildup...looks like something nicked the edge of the valve by the way the pic looks...

Check the deck of the block for flatness, then fix your head, resurface it and throw in either a mls or cometic hg with some nice arp's. Should be good for some decent numbers... or til you decide to build it...

MORE PICS... I want to see more carnage btw I would pull the valves out and do a valve job and new stems seals and some evo 8/9 valve springs...
Overall shouldnt cost you more than I'd say 300 if you find good deals on things...

 

[josh38127]

^^^^EXACTLY!!!

I always position the motor at TDC, its the best way to know all the valves are closed plus it isnt like its hard to do either...


ekk that head looks like $#!* with all that carbon buildup...looks like something nicked the edge of the valve by the way the pic looks...

what could cause that (the carbon)



I think It was little off timing, all valves have that.



check the deck of the block for flatness, then fix your head, resurface it and throw in either a mls or cometic hg with some nice arp's. Should be good for some decent numbers... or til you decide to build it...




I checked the block deck its all good. Do the cylenders look ok. I was going to rering it.

MORE PICS... I want to see more carnage btw I would pull the valves out and do a valve job and new stems seals and some evo 8/9 valve springs...
Overall shouldnt cost you more than I'd say 300 if you find good deals on things...

I'll get some tomarrow. I was just gonna get frankeinstain head.