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Blowing clamps under high boost!

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Teflon

15+ Year Contributor
133
0
Mar 2, 2008
Blackwood, New Jersey
Ok so I have hard and soft piping on my intercooler since I could not find a long enough coupler to connect them. Under 12 PSI of boost this is fine, but when i crank it up to 25 Psi the soft piping blows off no matter how hard I clamp it down. I have tried hair spray and double clamps but it still blows. I could take pics if you need them, but I really need suggestions on how to get it to hold since I want to get my car to atco tommorow.
 
Put a bead around the edge of the piping so when you clamp onto it,the coupler has something to bite onto instead of just a flat surface. Some people will put JBWELD around the edge to form a bead.
 
I don't think anyone on this forum, or anyone with any DSM engine is running enough boost to need to have V bands at every junction.

Pipe beading is where it's at. Jusmx linked to the best way. Second is probably a weld bead, third best (and the way I do it) is to take a set of pliers and crimp the end up in 6 or 7 spots. Not as clean looking, not as nice to deal with, but if a coupler blows off, it won't after that.

Don't do that BS hair spray thing either, that stuff is for 80's rock bands.
 
Its common sense..u need beads to stop the clamps from sliding off..hairspray works great combined with the beads.Just weld them...don't use jb weld.
 
I agree with the post that just says "beads on edges + t-bolt clamps... I've never had an issue running with t-bolts and i simply won't spend the 85 bucks a piece on v-bands.... I may eventaully get ONE for my DP hookup to the turbo but that's it.

Also....just to throw this out there. I have an 88 Supra in my shop right now that has the newer supra engine, and intercooler the size of my couch and is just plain bad-ass from every angle, but for some reason even with T-bolts and a bead on the IC inlet it still blows the pipe/coupler off anytime the owner stomps on it... After i get the bumper off i'm going to TIG up a nice fat bead on the IC and use a new T-bolt clamp then hopefully i can commence tuning..

i'll post pics in a nother thread later
 
Noticed you are in NJ. If you want send me a pm and I can bead your pipes for you. I've got a bead form tool we use on all of our ic pipe jobs.
 
What do you mean by hard and soft piping? If you're using the oem 2g plastic piping you'll probably want to upgrade the piping to prevent blow offs or leaks :)
 
I'm using a piece of the stock soft piping as a coupler between my 2.125" j-pipe and the 2.5" IC piping. It's the only thing I had around at the moment that would fit on both.

With t-clamps, I haven't had any trouble with it, even hitting 25psi. It's a long piece too.
The j-pipe is beaded, but my IC piping isn't. I just cleaned the coupler and pipe really good before I put it together.
 
I'm using a piece of the stock soft piping as a coupler between my 2.125" j-pipe and the 2.5" IC piping. It's the only thing I had around at the moment that would fit on both.

With t-clamps, I haven't had any trouble with it, even hitting 25psi. It's a long piece too.
The j-pipe is beaded, but my IC piping isn't. I just cleaned the coupler and pipe really good before I put it together.

I've had similar problems with similar set-ups. If you don't have time to get the pipes beaded(which as stated is the best solution)you can either bend the lips of the pipes with pliers(ghettofabulous) or use superglue in lieu of hairspray. Of course, if you use superglue it's a cast-iron motherfu(ker to get the coupler off again but it definately won't blow.
 
A good bead is key imo, clamp style is secondary. A good bead will stop any style of clamp from sliding off. I've done everything from the JB weld to using a punch to make my beads and I've never once had a pipe blow off even though I'm using regular hose clamps for most of the pipes. Hairspray and superglue? Don't make me laugh, spend a little time and do it right
 
I don't think anyone on this forum, or anyone with any DSM engine is running enough boost to need to have V bands at every junction.

Pipe beading is where it's at. Jusmx linked to the best way. Second is probably a weld bead, third best (and the way I do it) is to take a set of pliers and crimp the end up in 6 or 7 spots. Not as clean looking, not as nice to deal with, but if a coupler blows off, it won't after that.

Don't do that BS hair spray thing either, that stuff is for 80's rock bands.

Most guys use wiggins clamps for IC piping, not vbands. Wiggin clamps are $200 a pop. Guys that use them normally run completely solid engine mounts and money usually isn't an option. Are they needed? I doubt it, but they look cool.

I made my own bead roller using vice grips and a exhaust clamp and a washer, worked great. I run 31psi and have never blown a coupler ever.
 
for some reason even with T-bolts and a bead on the IC inlet it still blows the pipe/coupler off anytime the owner stomps on it...


Engine movement is something to consider. With original motor mounts, the engine flexes considerably when the throttle is suddenly stomped WOT, especially with hard-hitting turbos.

This movement could be enough additional stress to pop the coupler.
 
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