2G Block Ground

[Phoebus Castle]

Hello everyone, I'm new to this site and could use some help. Last year just before Christmas I bought a 99 eclipse Spyder GS. t's 4G64 engine 2.4L automatic. The car wouldn't start so the owner let it go for a low price. AAA towed it home for free and I began to look it over, long story short he must've pissed off the mechanic or not paid him because wires were cut to the ECU, the camshaft position sensor and the ignition coil pack. I got everything soldered back together and was able to read codes from the computer. It had a bad camshaft position sensor. I replaced it and she fired up, but... she was blowing thick white smoke from the tail pipe. My neighbor asked if I had bought compact place because my driveway looked like it was in the clouds. Not funny RICK. I pulled the head and ported it. I painted it so it would show the work I put into it and put it back together. I took pictures of everything because I didn't watch a video on this type of work. I never set the timing. Oops. The car fired up and rattled violently , so much that my wife came in the garage and though the car fell off the jack stands. I then realized my mistake. I call around to the autoparts places and told them what happened. I was told to remove the head again, check the valves, check the block and so I did. The block was fine but the cylinder head had a bolt that would torque down to 23 Flbs So Pulled another 4G64 head that was in good condition and used that. Now I set the engine and head to TDC and put it back together. I got everything connected, charged the battery and turned the key. The starter rattled like a dead battery so I checked, the battery was at 12.6 volts. S.O.B.! My neighbor came by and said the starter was bad. So I said and I ordered one. I removed the head, the intake manifold and exhaust manifold all in one piece again. I pulled the starter and it looked like it was 20 years old so hurray for me. I put the car back together again and got the same result. S.O.B.! Now I did some real research and made a lot of phone calls. I puled the battery and gave it a fresh charge, I pulled the starter and connected to the battery with jumper cable and it spun like a top. Great. Here's the problem...
The starter will turn the crankshaft with the battery connect via jumper cables, but not when it's hook up to the battery via the wire harness. I checked the JCASE 30 amp fuse, I checked the starter relay, I checked the battery, I checked the ground from the battery to the frame, I checked the terminals to the battery, I checked voltage coming from the ignition wire to the S post, I checked the thick positive on the starter, I checked the negative to the starter, I bought a longer braided ground strap and connected the block to the frame. I got 12.6 all day except for the the block, the block was zero. Now with ignition wire connected to S post on the starter it read 2.5 volts. I don't have engine fuses under the dash so what am I missing here. I checked the neutral safety switch. Theoretically, the engine should crank just from the starter motor even with the head off, but some reason it just rattles. I don't wanna have to pay some tow truck $100 to take it to a garage so they can charge me another hundred dollars to "look" at it. It must be something I'm overlooking because this is my first time changing head gaskets and valve stem seals.
Please help,
I name my next child after after you,
Phoebus

 

[motomattx]

Where did you get the starter? if its from a parts store it might be the wrong one.

 

[Phoebus Castle]

From Amazon.com it's identical to the one that came with it.

 

[motomattx]

Are you sure? look closely at the nose section for length.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/r...-its-grinding-flywheel.500255/#post-153567945

 

[Phoebus Castle]

Yes side by side comparison. I watched it unbolted from the car, it acts like it's not getting enough juice.

 

[motomattx]

It could be a defective starter then, have an amp draw test done on it at a local parts store. Other than that, replace your positive battery cable and maybe even your ground cable. You didnt need to pull the head to replace the starter by the way, it can be replaced in about a half hour from behind the intake.

 

[Phoebus Castle]

This is the third starter. All three can't be bad and I replaced the negative ground cable from the firewall to the negative terminal. I'm at my witts end. Thank you though.

 

[DogWhistle]

... Other than that, replace your positive battery cable...

We’ve all been where you are at, and it is frustrating.

Battery cables corrode and increase their resistance over time. A fresh positive cable will do wonders for your starter power. From the stater-end of the positive cable, to the block, you should be getting the same voltage as across the battery terminals.

Speaking of the battery, having that amp draw tested at the auto store could rule out it as a problem.

Inside, behind the radio, is the starter relay. Usually it’s a “go/no-go switch” action that energizes the starter solenoid. For peace of mind, you could replace that too.

Once you get the starter problem solved, these models have a secondary fuel pump solenoid, located behind the driver’s console cover, that goes bad. It may be why the mechanic cut the maf wires, so that the car would run in open loop. There is an article on ‘Tuners that details how to bypass these relays.

 

[Phoebus Castle]

That's just it. The only part of that circuit that doesn't read 12.6 volts is when the ignition wire is connected to the S post on the starter, but I will definitely replace what you've suggested .
Thank you to all

 

[lasthope05]

I don't think you mentioned the starter ground. It should be connected to the starter mount bolt/transmission direct to battery negative post.

That most likely your problem if your power cable is good. If anything you can also do a voltage drop test on the system if you have a multimeter.

Also there should be no power to the solenoid unless cranking. If you suspect that's a problem, test the ignition switch voltage on the start circuit. That same wire goes to both the starter solenoid and ECU if you also want to check there, PIN 71(black/yellow.)

 

[Phoebus Castle]

It is, plus I replaced the negative ground cable from terminal to firewall and today had AutoZone test the battery and the starter. Both are in 100% working order.

 

[Phoebus Castle]

I really appreciate everyone's input I hope we can solve this issue
Thank you