Bleeding the clutch help

[TuRBoTaLooN]

I hope this is the right forum to post this in...

Since my 6 bolt swap I've had a soft clutch pedal which I always thought was weird on my ACT 2600. I bled the clutch a few times, clutch felt the same. So I replaced both the master and slave cylinders and put in a new SS line from where the accumulator WOULD BE to the slave. Got everything in and filled the reservoir with fluid to the top. Had my mom help me out to bleed the clutch. Here is my procedure.

Push in clutch (hold)
Open valve on slave
Close valve on slave
Slowly pull out clutch pedal.

I did this about 10 times and the fluid level in the reservoir didn't even budge. Am I doing something wrong??

 

[KevinRR]

It's easier if you have someone help you, but I just did it myself. Here what I do I use a clear hose and connect it to the end so it don't squirt fluid everywhere. I let gravity do it thing until there no bubble or air coming out. Then I take a pipe and press the brakes to the floor and put one end between the seat to hold it. After that just go close the bleeder valve and remove the pipe, you might have to pull out the clutch. Repeat the steps if necessary I have done this numerous time and it always worked.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Thanks man, I had another person working the clutch pedal for me. But nothing was coming out of the slave bleeder valve. I guess tomorrow I'm going to try removing the valve completely and see if I can get fluid to even come out.

 

[southrneclipser]

i find that this method works best. (with 2 people)

open valve
press clutch, hold
close valve
let off clutch pedal
open valve
press clutch, hold
close valve
let off clutch

and repeat as necessary

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Ok, so I completely removed the bleeder screw from the slave cylinder and pumped the clutch pedal and the fluid level didn't budge, nor did fluid come out of the slave. I even loosened up the hard line to the master and pumped and tightened it and pumped. Nothing.

When I first put fluid in the reservoir, the level went down a bit, which lead me to believe it at least went into the smaller reservoir on the master cylinder. But it's not getting from the master to the slave for some reason. WTF??

Yup, adjusting the rod solved the problem. I got fluid, bled pretty quickly, and feels a bit better than before. Thanks guys!

RESOLVED

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

So I drove the car yesterday after adjusting the clutch pedal. After installing a new master and slave cylinder the clutch pedal still feels a bit soft for an ACT 2600. As of about 400 miles ago when I did the motor swap, the clutch has a brand new ACT lightweight flywheel, brand new street disk, used (from old motor) ACT 2600 PP, brand new fork, brand new tob, brand new fulcrum.

What could be making the pedal not feel stiff?

 

[belize1334]

If it's too soft (and not in your head) then you either still have air in the lines or the clutch is not correctly adjusted. If it shifts well without grabbing when the clutch is all the way in then I'd say that neither is likely since either issue will cause the clutch to fail to fully release. I'd say just drive it and get used to it. If it releases well and doesn't slip under power then count yourself lucky.

Also, you should change you bleeding procedure and do it the way southrneclipser said. That's the standard method consistent with the FSM.

 

[LiquidX]

Just pick up a speed bleeder nipple and be done with it. It's a 1 person job and you won't let air back in the system. I have speed bleeders on my calipers and slave cylinder and it only takes seconds to bleed the clutch.

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[TuRBoTaLooN]

Yea I will most likely bleed the system again, but the clutch seems to work perfectly fine and holds fine under 23psi of boost on my 50 trim.

 

[chrisff521]

I didnt want to make a new thread so Im just posting on this thread but anyways I bled my clutch by having someone pump the clutch 10 times and on the tenth time, they hold it and I crack the bleeder valve open and quickly shut it with the hose attached to it and the other end submerged in brake fluid.

I repeated this method about 10 times and this is the 2nd time bleeding the clutch. It still gets spongy sometimes and the gears are difficult to engage from time to time and the reverse almost always grinds. But I know its not the synchros becuase most of the time is goes into gear very smoothly and so does the reverse when I first start the car but after driving around a little bit it starts to grind.

anYone have any ideas? Do u think its necessary to replace the master and slave cylinders?