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And english went 10.2 on a 68hta...

Yeah.. On a 2.1L De-stroker and 10:1 compression.. :rolleyes:

Thanks tyson.

91 he also did it in a 2300lbs tin can, I did it with a stock car with no weight pulled out of it. thats 1000lbs. Not to mention it was my 2nd pass with the car and I only made 5 that day and so far with the car.

Either way $650 for an upgrade from a reputable shop or go gamble elsewhere.
 
Thanks tyson.

91 he also did it in a 2300lbs tin can, I did it with a stock car with no weight pulled out of it. thats 1000lbs. Not to mention it was my 2nd pass with the car and I only made 5 that day and so far with the car.

Yeah.. On a 2.1L De-stroker and 10:1 compression.. :rolleyes:

Funny because english says it has a 2.3L on 9.0:1 compression :hmm: Stock intake manifold even. They also listed the weight at 2570 and made the pass on snow tires.



Funny that not one thing you guys listed was even remotely right. I guess you guys know something english doesnt :rolleyes:
 
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I'm trying to understand where the wasted money is - are you talking about in comparison to a 68HTA? Or the MTC conversion? Chances are, if you find a decent used 16g with a good turbine housing, you're going to pay, on average, about $300, wouldn't you say? You might get lucky and find it cheaper, but you're still getting a used turbo. Then you have two options:

MTC: $850 for their stage 1 conversion (did they just recently lower their price? I swear it was higher last time I looked)
MAP: $650 for their stage 1 conversion

They look very comparable. But you still have a used turbine housing and you're either paying $900 or $1150 in the end, assuming you paid around $300 for the used 16g to being with. MAP looks like the winner there. But...

For $1145, FP offers the 68HTA and you get a new turbo with new turbine housing. In general, all 3 options are fairly comparable, MAP having the cheapest option of the 3. But the 68HTA still looks like the more appealing option to me in terms of investment, since you get an all new turbo. But I can see some DSMers wanting to get a similar turbo for a couple hundred less and skimping on a used turbine housing.

If you're on a limited budget, might as well just get a basic 16g rebuild and avoid all of these options.
 
I really only see this appealing to those interested in maxing out in the stock appearing turbo class but unfortunately the economy has weeded that group pretty thin this year.

Like Ludachris said, when you look at the numbers of everyone's option and not just the initial sticker shock they come out quite comparable.
 
For the price it seems to me as if this is a basic 16G bored, ported and polished, balanced, ceramic coated, larger turbine wheel inducer and exducer and well whatever else you could do to "open up" your 16G. Anyone else agree or disagree for that matter?

EDIT: For whatever reason i didn't see page 2 which pretty much solidified what I had to say.
 
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turbotalon1g,
can you give me more details abut that time? 11.45 119
weight of car? 60 ft? tire used?
any dyno numbers or airflow numbers between evo 16g and ef1?

I really like the blade design. any surge at all? does it feel any laggier than 16g?
 
Funny because english says it has a 2.3L on 9.0:1 compression :hmm: Stock intake manifold even. They also listed the weight at 2570 and made the pass on snow tires.



Funny that not one thing you guys listed was even remotely right. I guess you guys know something english doesnt :rolleyes:

English spilled the beans on his entire motor setup on a Evo forum. It is a 2.1 de-stroker with 10:1 compression pistons.

Unless he decided to change setups, thats what he ran.
 
Even if they did, do you have the proper tools to balance this new wheel on your current turbo?

I think I may know a guy or 2 that could get that taken care of.

But still 350 for the compressor wheel.I think most of us would rather go lathed 20g, than 350 just for a compressor wheel.

A recent photo upload made me think of this thread, and had to quote who last quoated me.
 
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