Best recommendations tips and tricks to moving motor mounts for non slandered engines

[Zen Hakuren]

Just wanted to ask the community the best methos and secure locations where new motor mounts could be placed or old mounts be removed and moved to. Is welding the best option in all locations? It it safer of better to drill and bolt in other locations and so on. Mostly asking due to the want for a 420a evo swap but the general knowlage will be useful to others getting into extrema modification

 

[steve]

Best option? I don't know.

The factory mounting I believe has nuts welded inside the crossovers where the mounts attach and the factory mounts have pressed in bushings. That allows replacing the mounts when the bushing fail. If you weld them in that could create problems for you down the road but you as the builder have to decide what's "best".

I can see pro's and con's to both.

 

[Zen Hakuren]

Best option? I don't know.

The factory mounting I believe has nuts welded inside the crossovers where the mounts attach and the factory mounts have pressed in bushings. That allows replacing the mounts when the bushing fail. If you weld them in that could create problems for you down the road but you as the builder have to decide what's "best".

I can see pro's and con's to both.

This seems kind of like a non-answer . Information like what parts of the frame can handle the stress of holding the engine or transmission and if I'm going to attach to these stress points what method of attachment is usually best suited based on the area in question. I could just simply weld and unweld to the frame testing all possibilities but that would ruin the chassis

 

[motomattx]

The Evo engine bolts into the 420a mounts from what I can remember, no reason to move them.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I was in a thread earlier today that said they "ALMOST" bolt up. I am not sure myself.

 

[97egl]

The best thing to do would be use the factory mount bolt holes and then fab a mount from there to the mounting point on the engine. That's pretty common practice with engine swaps when possible. As @steve mentioned you want to be able to bolt and unbolt the mount to replace the mount bushing. Some cases you will have to get a little more creative depending on how far off the mounting points are. The Subframe that the rear mount is on is the same thickness all the way across so you could add a mount pretty much anywhere on that if you had to. I would use bolts to hold the mount in place over welding still and not just weld to the subframe.

 

[steve]

This seems kind of like a non-answer.

It was and on par the with level of the question. Your second try was much better in that it was specific about what you were thinking.

Also, I'm not employed here (at all) to answer questions. On subjects I know pretty well I might but on others it's more about moving the conversation along, getting clarifying/qualifying information when possible.

Because the 2gNT cars are so cheap we get a lot of people popping in with big plans to make a fast car who frankly have no chance completing the endeavor so it's highly discouraged and those who can get the job done ask highly specific questions and already have manuals, diagrams, and measurements.

If I misjudged your questions I apologise and wish you the best luck. We can always use more successful examples and people who can answer questions having done it.

 

[Zen Hakuren]

It was and on par the with level of the question. Your second try was much better in that it was specific about what you were thinking.

Also, I'm not employed here (at all) to answer questions. On subjects I know pretty well I might but on others it's more about moving the conversation along, getting clarifying/qualifying information when possible.

Because the 2gNT cars are so cheap we get a lot of people popping in with big plans to make a fast car who frankly have no chance completing the endeavor so it's highly discouraged and those who can get the job done ask highly specific questions and already have manuals, diagrams, and measurements.

If I misjudged your questions I apologise and wish you the best luck. We can always use more successful examples and people who can answer questions having done it.

Sorry if I came off rude. The original question wasn't worded quite right. I would really like a 3d stress map of the vehicle if anyone has one. That what I could see where I could and couldn't put stress due to extra weight and what can and can't be cut

 

[steve]

I would really like a 3d stress map of the vehicle if anyone has one.

That would be really useful but I haven't seen one and I suspect what structual models Mitsubishi/Chrysler had are long gone. Closest information that might be useful was the body manual that was part of the Factory Service Manuals. At least that has measurements that a shop might need to untweek the unibody.

My buddy Vineet had to make his own 3D models when he built his 1G twin engine Talon back in the day.

 

[chrysler kid]

The only guy that will answer your questions with exact knowledge is miguel dsm. If you are serious you can send him a message on instagram, he responds to messages and is very active in his dsm community

To the best of my knowledge im not sure how he did the mounts, he has mentioned everything kind of bolts in, and he originally used a 3g eclipse 4 cylinder fwd transmission to swap in his car

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