The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

best quality yet most affordable balance shaft Eliminator kit ??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pimpin81

15+ Year Contributor
524
0
Dec 14, 2007
bellingham, Washington
that's right I'm looking for the best quality yet the most cost effective.. so basically the cheapest i can get but wont break for a long long time.

can someone point me in the right direction. possibly pm me with any links as to not break any forum rules.

Also feel free to post any reviews you might have on your eliminator kit.

p.s. i know i have a pic of a 1g but im looking for a 2g kit.
 
Genuine OEM parts:

MD103722 - Rear Balance shaft bearing - $9.84
MD040597 - Front Balance shaft bearing - $11.59
MD092785 - Balance shaft cap - $7.73
MD098626 - Balance shaft stub - $9.59
MD128107 - Balance shaft spacer - $3.84

OEM Mitsubishi Parts

(Those are all the parts included in this kit)
 
Last edited:
Ghetto BSE = cut the front belt and toss it, replace rear shaft with the mirage stub oil shaft (or cut it off and fill in the hole with weld or a bolt after tapping it to M8 x 1.25 threads.. I chose the stub-shaft since it's clean and you have to pull the front cover anyway(plus i had one in my toolbox). This way is the least work, but not the best option in some people's eyes. Some say that the front BS can rotate to where the oil holes line up and then you could loose some pressure. I haven't lost any yet, and the rear takes car of it's self since it's fed from the center of the shaft and not through passages in the block.

I believe this way may actually be a medium point between the high oil pressures seen when blocking the front BS's holes up by putting the bearing in crooked. But that's just my thoughts.

I"m beating the hell out of the motor done like this right now, so we'll see if it ever causes any issues.
 
i just cut the oil pump bs shaft and weld a 10mm nut on it,its all ready worn
in and havnt had any prob. with my motor.
 
Ghetto BSE = cut the front belt and toss it, replace rear shaft with the mirage stub oil shaft (or cut it off and fill in the hole with weld or a bolt after tapping it to M8 x 1.25 threads.. I chose the stub-shaft since it's clean and you have to pull the front cover anyway(plus i had one in my toolbox). This way is the least work, but not the best option in some people's eyes. Some say that the front BS can rotate to where the oil holes line up and then you could loose some pressure. I haven't lost any yet, and the rear takes car of it's self since it's fed from the center of the shaft and not through passages in the block.

I believe this way may actually be a medium point between the high oil pressures seen when blocking the front BS's holes up by putting the bearing in crooked. But that's just my thoughts.

I"m beating the hell out of the motor done like this right now, so we'll see if it ever causes any issues.

That's how I have mine done. The only ghetto way to do it in my opinion is using those junk non-oem stubby shafts without the oiling groove.
 
are there any online installation instructions, that i can read up on before i attempt this i already have the kit ordered and none of the shops in my area have ever done this.
 
This has nothing to do with the internal balance of the engine. It counters engine harmonics. Don't wanna get into describing it but it won't effect the balance of the engine. You will feel a little more vibration throughout the rpm band because the shafts aren't countering the vibration anymore but no harm done. I have a BSEK and Prothane motor mounts and it's not too bad. Mirrors do shake a bit at idle.
 
Is the only reason to do this to make it more reliable (so you won't have abalancer belt potentially flying off into the timing belt)? Interested as during some recent car work my balancer belt was found to be completely split in 2.
 
Care to explain how exactly it does that?

Reduction of rotating mass = some horsepower that was going into spinning those shafts can now go towards the rear wheels. Not alot but some...

from the "free BSE" page...Free Balance Shaft Removal
"There is an average of 2.7 HP gained from every pound lost off the crank shaft." - Unorthodox Racing

Given that the balance shafts are spinning at twice the crank rpm it has a potential of a 32hp gain! (I figure 15hp is realistic, Unorthodox ALWAYS exaggerates their claims.


I also replaced the balance shaft sprocket on the crank with a factory spacer. That'll save some rotating mass as well...I partially broke the sprocket on removal so it made sense to get the factory spacer.
 
this is true, the engine does feel alot lighter after the mod:D, have u actually felt the weight of those things? they are pretty heavy & u definately don't want that kind of weight on ## crankshaft.
 


Sorry Adam I am going to have to advise against that stub shaft. If you look at a picture of that shaft and the OEM stub shaft it is missing a very important oil path. Not sure if you know Dan with a gray GSX, but he picked up one of those shafts in a pinch and it lasted 50 miles then chewed through his front case and timing cover. A few people on the link forums have had issues with them as well.
 
Sorry Adam I am going to have to advise against that stub shaft. If you look at a picture of that shaft and the OEM stub shaft it is missing a very important oil path. Not sure if you know Dan with a gray GSX, but he picked up one of those shafts in a pinch and it lasted 50 miles then chewed through his front case and timing cover. A few people on the link forums have had issues with them as well.

what about this one is it different or same issue? FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
That 2nd pic has the factory spacer to go in place of the sprocket as well as the rubber coated plug which I think is actually a factory part as well.
 
That 2nd pic has the factory spacer to go in place of the sprocket as well as the rubber coated plug which I think is actually a factory part as well.

Yes, all the parts from the FFWD kit (or the 2nd picture that boostedinaz posted) are listed, with part numbers and prices, by Eric in post #2 (for cheaper, I might add).
 
I dont recomend anyone using the kit with the smooth stubby shaft, get the kit with a shaft that has an oil groove. I would even do the stock balance shaft hack before i would use that shaft again. Speaking from personal experience, I used this very kit and lost a front cover, pump gears, timing belt, two exhaust valves, head gasket and most of all my time on a customer's car. The shaft seized and lock up forcing the timing belt to jump, kissing two valves.:mad:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top