Balance Shaft Eliminator kit?

[Takeshi]

I've done a couple searches here, and a google search, maybe I'm putting in the wrong words, I find kits, but not what the purpose is for eliminating the balance shaft. Just curious.

 

[Pure92TSi]

It's a safety and power issue. It adds a few horses while removing the worry of the balance shaft belt breaking and taking the timing belt with it and your nice valves and pistons. Hope this helps.

 

[jastermerrel]

Its also one less belt to change when you do the tbelt, speeds a tbelt change up nicely.

 

[SBstar]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66351&highlight=balance+shafts

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168822&highlight=balance+shafts

http://vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

Here's a couple things for you to read through. Then just go do it if you have the time.

 

[Mist3r Spool]

I purchased the BSEK kit from www.slowboyracing.com for ~$42 It was a bit of a pain to install (especially since it was my first time working on a t-belt on a DSM) but it was well worth the effort. When I removed my old timing belt and b-shaft belt, I noticed severe cracking in the balance shaft belt whereas the t-belt was still in good condition. If a balance shaft belt snaps, it will most likely get caught up into your timing belt and cause possibly catastrophic damages to your engine (timing slips, pistons introduce themselves to valves, etc.). If you are familiar with the timing belt swap, I'd go ahead and remove the balance shafts. I can do a timing belt swap in about 45min now w/no b-shafts! If you do decide to do so, follow the vfaq's guide, I looked over it once or twice beforehand and it helped prep me a bit. You'll need new gaskets and seals, etc., vfaq's guide has that info as well.
Post installation, you'll initally notice a bit more vibration at idle and between 2.5K-4.0K rpms, but only for a while-you'll get used to it. Oil pressure also increases dramatically...a huge plus. If you have any questions, PM me, I'll help where I can-I know it can be a frustrating task, especially when you have to punch in the inner front b-shaft bearing.

 

[corrado620]

I did not have a balance shaft to filp or the correct tools to use to remove the rear bearing when i was installing an eliminator kit. But quickly found out that a 3-ton jack handle to get the rear bearing out works good. It is long enough but has a smaller diameter then the bearing. But creates enough contact area with the bearing it was easy to remove. And to install the rear bearing i put the bearing overaround the handle and slowly put it in past the front bearing hole and kind of pushed it in snung with my hands from the oil pan side and then removed the handle from the middle of the bearing and used the other b/s holes as guides for the handle to push/tap the bearing on all sides to set it into place. Of couse i did not line up the oil holes.

Hint: For other jobs your jack handle can be used to put over a rachet handle and be use as an extension for increase leverage.
Corey

 

[redleader36]

Ive removed balance shafts on 3 engines now and ive found that the larger shaft can be used to press out the smaller bearings. Take the larger balance shaft and use the rounded end (not the weighted end) to press out the bearing and hit the weighted end with a hammer/mallet. Also, for the larger bearing i used a socket and extension . . i dont remember what size socket fits.
Also, last night we pulled apart a block that we got from a parts car and found the balance shaft bearing in the shape of a pretzel laying in the oilpan and the balance was worn down and had about a 1/4" play in every direction. Luckily it is the bearing that has no oil source from the block and does not need to be replaced when removing the balance shafts. This is the second engine ive seen that spun a balance shaft bearing and definitely makes me want to remove them.

 

[Gary 420A RS]

signed to this thread..