best internals to use??

[pureboost-gst]

im just starting my 4g63t build, it is going in a 97' eclipse gs-t, im planning to get it machined out. i want to be some where around 450 to 500 hp, and i want it to last and be bullet proof. I want to know what some good internal parts that you have used and that will be able to hold.
can you give me some ideas for good rods and bearings, pistons, also what else i can do to prevent crank walk, im getting the crank polished and balanced, im still deciding on if i want to over bore the cylinders, and if i do what would be a good size bore to have, what size injectors would be good for it, and do you know if a piggy back is any good or should i just get a stand alone. i also want to know what a good size turbo would be and what some good clutches would be good to use aswell. thanks

 

[volcomsnow245]

.20 over wiseco pistons
Eagle H beam rods
ACL bearings
eagle crank

 

[pureboost-gst]

so i should get a new crank to stop the crank walk problem for good?

 

[gusu]

so i should get a new crank to stop the crank walk problem for good?

Obviously you don't know what it is. Odds are it will never be an issue, unless you get very very lucky.

I should also mention you should never bore a boosted motor unless you have some reason to do it, like scars on the block or something of that nature. The more you bore the more you weaken the block.

 

[volcomsnow245]

^^ Yea your not going to walk I know plenty of people who have built 7 bolts nothing has happened.

 

[Junfan]

Eagle rods, JE pistons, stock crank and ACL bearings is what I am going to put in my build. My goals are to have a high 11 second car that I can drive daily with stock appearing turbo. I will eventually run something larger like Kelford 272 and 35r but this should do everything you want and need. I am not going to go .20 over unless i have too. I rather keep the smaller piston size and rev to 9k if needed. I don't think I will but whatever.

Turbo wise I would probably do an EVO III 16g since you can bolt it directly on and maybe a nice front mount to keep it cool. Bang for the buck a VRSF FMIC kit or an ETS is a better choise.

Clutch wise I using a Exedy Cerametallic thick disk and the operation is smooth and easy. It has the holding power around a 2600 from my understanding but daily driving is more like a full face disk. There is little to know chatter.

Crankwalk has to do with the thrust bearing wearing strangely or the crankshaft not fitting inside the bearing properly allowing it to move around. I do know that some model years appear to be more prone to this problem. I know all 2Gs can have the problem but I get the impression that they fixed the problem in the later 7 bolts. Please correct me if I am wrong as I have limited knowledge on the subject.

 

[pureboost-gst]

alright, well i go on fourms and type in dsm all i see is crank walk, so im not too sure about it.

I should for sure get after market pistons?

 

['97boostinGST]

alright, well i go on fourms and type in dsm all i see is crank walk, so im not too sure about it.

I should for sure get after market pistons?

This is why you search on a DSM forum and search around.
Not just go on any "forum" and search DSM. Of course your gonna see CW issues on foreign forums.

 

[pureboost-gst]

well when i took my rods and pistons out i had no bearings what so ever in one #3. they were a big pile of shaved metal in the bottom of my old pan, there fore i dont know if it was crank walk that caused it or what.

 

[BogusSVO]

no, that was a spun bearing you did on #3

crank walk is excissive forward/back motion of the crank that chews up the thurst bearing, and crank thurst face

there are many thread about this issue on this board.

anyhow to you question...

any decent forged piston... search again to see what has been said about them here
any good H beam rod

ACL or clevite or king bearings

new oil pump

you may need a new crank also, depending on how bad #3 got chewed up

 

[DECODER22]

Arias Shelf Pistons with eagle rods and a good machine shop do a 6 bolt bottom end with a 2g head drilled for 6 bolt studs also balance shaft removal or have it milled down and balanced

 

[daren_p]

Do some searching on your own of what others are using & what people are recommending. For your goals, basically any "decent" aftermarket part should hold the power your looking to make (as its not much more then guys do reliably on stock parts). There is no such thing as "bulletproof", you can build a motor with the very best components & still blow it up.

Common setups are Wiseco or Ross pistons, Eagle or Manley H beams & ACL "Race" (tri metal) bearings. Stock crank is fine if its still in good shape.

I built my 7 bolt, to prevent chances of CW I had the crank nitrited, ARP mains with girdle dowl alignment kit & block off the squirters. I also had all the plugs pulled on the stock crank to have the oil galley's properly cleaned/flushed.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

The best components ever wont mean anything if the tune isn't right. Tune is key to making the engine last.

 

[SPYDERGSTTUNER]

Stay away from those piggy back systems they do work but only to a certain extent, safc 2 I think only tunes injectors up to 680's if I remember correctly. TUNING is what will make your motor last you can have the best most priciest parts but if the tune sucks your motor is gonna suffer and cause it to break down. Dsmlink is something you should really add to your list of parts since is the easiest and best tuning option out there for dsms.