Best brake setup

[spades_gsx]

check out this package for the fron and rear.link
comes with all four rotors (slotted or drilled or a combo of the two), axis pads, ss brake lines for $450. thats a great price. I'm definetly going to get this setup when I get the money.

just scroll to the bottom of the page.

 

[paul s]

I have used the EBC "red" on my car(street car) and they worked great, didn't last that long with few lapping events..
my new setup.

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[ECTurboDSM]

I have run the EBC greens and also think they suck. Stainless lines are a must in my opinion. After having SS lines, I hate driving any car that doesn't have them. Did you get your AP Racing brakes from Stillen? Thats the only place I have found them.

 

[paul s]

I got them from KVRperformance in Ottawa..

 

[Todd TCE]

This is like those crazy posts about "what's the best tire I can put on my car?"

There is no 'best' brake system you can put on your car. What works for one person may not work for another. What is one guys budget may be out of sight for another. Before you can really shop smarlty you'd do well to define your needs.

There are a few things to consider;
Street use, drag use, open track use, wheel fit, cost factors, replacement parts, weight, all come to mind.

What works for the weekend drag guy is hardly the same need for the guy who runs open track road racing. On the other hand if your budget is not to spend more on brakes than the value of the car or you have only $400 max to spend then it should be stated. If you have $1500-2k to spend then you'll have a host of options to pick from. Or maybe you really want to run 15" wheels for drag racing? Changes the whole perspective. Bigger kits take up more room in the wheels- that means you might get stuck buying new wheels just to fit some mondo kit suggested to you.

In the end just be honest; how much money are your really prepared to spend and what level of use are you after. And please, not the 'street and occasional track use' comments. Tell us what type of track use, how often you go, etc. There's no shame in saying that you never go to the track either. Nor if you tell everyone that you only want big brakes becasue you like the way they look! It's your car, buy for your reasons not someone elses.

 

[FyxxterZC]

How about the cheapest autocross/daily driver setup. Talking a full season of solo 2 here. Yes it's parking lot racing with cones. But I can warp a set of brand new oem replacement rotors in a day!

 

[B1921]

I have used the EBC "red" on my car(street car) and they worked great, didn't last that long with few lapping events..
my new setup.
]

Thats very nice! Got anymore info on that for us?

And I'm sorry Pyrex, but some of the stuff you posted is just flat out wrong. If you leave your e-brake on, there is still a hot pad clamped to the rotor. Also, rotor warping is most of the time caused by pad depostion on the rotor. Which causes an uneven surface on the rotor, ie warping. And if you ever get to the melting point of cast iron, or brake rotors, your in trouble! Your caliper seals will blow way before that, and you pads will have disintegrated a long time ago.

 

[paul s]

What else would you like to know.^^

 

[Todd TCE]

How about the cheapest autocross/daily driver setup. Talking a full season of solo 2 here. Yes it's parking lot racing with cones. But I can warp a set of brand new oem replacement rotors in a day!

The twin pot stock caliper with slotted rotors and decent pads appear your best or perhaps only choice. Cheapest does come into play here. Buy throw-away rotors for the track days.
Better yet; after the solo runs drive around a bit to let the brakes cool down. That alone should prolong the life cycle. Most damage is done not on the course but when you park.

 

[B1921]

What else would you like to know.^^

What brackets did you use? Rotors and hats?

 

[paul s]

here is another pic. I purchased the kit so the brackets came with it. Rotors are 28mm(24mm stock) thick and 13".

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[spades_gsx]

^^

 

[wret]

Paul, I'm curious: did you have to space the wheels out further or did the rotors have sufficient offset to get the calipers in and out of the way?

 

[paul s]

The reason I went with this setup is that it will fit the stock 17" wheel(my spare). My offset is 41mm but there is plenty room even with the stock 17" rims. No spacers here.

 

[B1921]

Sweet. Where did you get the kit?

 

[paul s]

I bought the kit at KVRperformance in Ottawa..

 

[jfdid]

Paul, aren't your rotors on the wrong side of the car? From my knowledge, the slots should angle out when going forwards? I could be crazy, but it struck me odd.

 

[paul s]

I have asked the supplier to make sure they are correct...

 

[jtmcinder]

As has been said before, the first thing to check is the direction of the vanes between the plates. This trumps any opinion on which way slots should go.

- Jtoby

 

[Todd TCE]

I'm glad that someone remembers we've had this discussion before.

The slots are no indication of proper rotor direction. This is dictated by the center vanes or webs for cooling purposes.

As a side note....the new Vette has only one rotor type. They run one side one way the other side the wrong way. Boy does this the hard core guys in a tizzy!

 

[jfdid]

Thanks for clearing that up guys.

 

[ECTurboDSM]

Paul,

I was gonna ask what made you decide on the APs but I'm guessing your main reason was that they fit behind the spare. It seems like a lot of the high end race cars use almost exclusively AP hardware. I know some use others (the 333SP I've been up close to had Brembos). I'm just curious as to what makes a $2500 AP or Brembo GT kit better than the others that are around that use two piece rotors, 4 and 6 piston calipers and what not.

 

[paul s]

I chose the AP because I always liked them. You always get what you pay for, it is street friendly(dust caps on pistons) set-up that has been pruven over and over by many race teams. It is little overkill for the street but well worth it. When you're tuning your car in top of 4th its reasuring to know that you can stop as you like..