Batt. Relocation wiring?

[Got Boooost]

Hey guys, I’ve relocated my battery to my trunk and I’m wondering if some one can critique me on the way I’ve don’t it.
From the battery in the trunk I’ve got a short 2guage positive cable going to a master shut off
From the shut off, the positive cable goes into a 130amp anl fuse then all the way up to the front of the car where I have a power distribution block.
from the distribution block I’ve got one wire going to the starter (6 or 8 gauge cant remember), one 2 gauge wire going to the alternator with a 100amp fuse 6in from the alt., and then 3 or 4 wires going to the fuse box.

The 2 cables that originally bolted to the alternator, I’ve tapped them up with electrical tape and moved them aside and out of the way. Am I suppose to still have these 2 cable hooked up?
I’ve looked at this wiring diagram and it shows that the 2 cables goes from the alt. to the fuse box, but with my current set up I’ve eliminated them. Since I’ve done the relocation and rebuild I’m getting a DTC code of 1500 generator MF malfunction, so I’m wondering if this might be my problem?

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Thanks for the help

Vern

 

[Kris_TM]

I'm pretty sure you need to have the other wires from the alt. hooked up also. Someone else can step in and correct me though, as im not positive.

 

[DGajre777]

Cut the wires going from the alternator to the fusebox but leave the 100 AMP alternator fuse in the fuse box.

This is my entire wiring schematic. I haven't put the 150A fuse on the ground yet...

 

[the1cov]

There is no need to put a fuse on the ground.

 

[DGajre777]

There is no need to put a fuse on the ground.

I'm very well aware that there's no "need" for a fuse on ground, but since I have an extra fuse holder I figured I might as well use it... unless you want to buy a 0g stinger fuse holder from me?

 

[Black'95]

What do you guys think of putting a capacitor in to stabilize voltage to a distribution block that would feed the ecu, wideband, etc.? Worth it? Maybe a voltage regulator?