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Basic MAFT Questions [merged] GM MAF Translator

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gotboost55

20+ Year Contributor
132
1
Jan 14, 2003
Basic MAFT Questions
What is it?
What does it do?
Where does it go?
Where does the xxxx color wire go?
Can I vent with a MAFT?
What MAF can I use?
Can I use a 2g MAFT with a 1g?
Can I use a 1g MAFT with a 2g?


Sorry guys !but am not really sure about this one.What does the MAFT really do and is it a good buy?thanks
 
I figured this is more of a basic newb question...

If i get a GM Maft setup, and put it inline, after the BOV, will i need to tune it at all, or can i just install it, and still have my car run normally? Im not sure how else to word this question.

Thanks

Rob
 
Every car is different, but it will probably need to be smoothed over. Do it right and get a logger to see whats going on, tune it out, and your car will thank you. Then you can change your settings after important mods you put on your car.
 
I know you guys have answered this a million times, sorry to ask again. I have searched before hand its just hard to wade through the mountains of info here. Anyways, here it is. I just got a 97 GST and I eventualy want to vent the BOV to the atmosphere. I plan on doing the staged upgrades as shown on this site. I am going to get the Dejon Tool 2-gQ Intake Pipe, and the UIP-2gD, the MAFT and GM MAF, and the HKS SSQ BOV. So anything else I will need?
Another thing, should I go with a 3" or 2.5" exhaust? I am open to suggestions, if my upgrade path seems flawed, let me know. I dont want to have to buy parts more than once. What turbo would you guys reccomend for hitting 400HP? Is that even possible while keeping the car running good on the street to? Don't be to harsh guys. I dont plan on upgrading the turbo til I get alll the other supporting mods done.
 
if you are going to be using a GM MAF, then you will need new intake pipe with just a filter, intercooler pipes to accomidate the MAF and of course the MAFT.

There is a list of what kind of hp people on here are making with what turbos: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dynosheets.php

I would go with a 3" exhaust and that way you wont think you need to upgrade in the future. I looked in your profile and you have everything listed as stock. I think the GM MAF will be a lot more useful once you have a modded car instead of a stock one, but go for it :thumb:
 
alex99gst said:
if you are going to be using a GM MAF, then you will need new intake pipe with just a filter, intercooler pipes to accomidate the MAF and of course the MAFT.

There is a list of what kind of hp people on here are making with what turbos: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dynosheets.php

I would go with a 3" exhaust and that way you wont think you need to upgrade in the future. I looked in your profile and you have everything listed as stock. I think the GM MAF will be a lot more useful once you have a modded car instead of a stock one, but go for it :thumb:

Ok I understand it will help out a lot better, but I am just starting on this car, and I figure I don't want to replace parts I have already upgraded. So Iam starting out with the intake pipe Dejon Tool CIP-2gQ, GMAF, GMAFT, UICP and the BOV, then Im puting in the aftermarket Boost Gauge, and then doing the exhaust. Does that sound like a good order to do the upgrades in? I might do the exhaust first though. Not sure yet. I want to do something to it, And I will have to buy the parts for the entire Intake system in order to get it to work. Just wondering what you guys would do if you were planning on upgrading from a bone stck car, and were planning on using the GMAF/T and using a blow through setup. What order would you buy things?
 
if your goal is to reach 400 hp, i would not buy the UIP...just get a front mount and like a 20G externally wastegated or forced performance has some really nice ones... like the green :thumb:
 
Thanks guys. So I will upgrade the boost gauge first, then the exhaust. Then I am going to work on the intake. What would you guys reccomend as far as logging goes? I was thinking dsmlink, but I know absolutely nothing about tuning a car, so I think that is a good way to screw it up. Anyways, Thanks guys, your opinions are really appreciated.

BTW, know where I can find a decent Boost gauge in PSI? I have been looking around, and I keep seeing these stupid BAR gauges.
 
Ok, for my 400 HP goal, will a Dejon Tool FMIC Street Kit, be a good enough IC, and will a Big 16G be enough for 400? I think I am going to have DSM link as my first real mod so I can tune each part as I get it.
 
yea... to be honest blo through is the only way to go if u don't wanna end up stahling ur car everytime u shift gears!
My friend made that mistake and whenever I drove his car, it would stahl in each gear :p
 
1. Definitely boost gauge and boost controller first as both BOV and exhaust will most likely change your boost level and characteristics.

2. There is really no need for the maft, logger or dsmlink until you upgrade the injectors but I suspect the purpose of the maft is to vent your BOV. :(

3. I would do the BOV, boost gauge, mbc and exhaust first. Then Fuel pump, injectors and maft/logger => fmic and piping => turbo.
 
Well the BOV I want is the HKS SSQ. I was under the impression it wasnt meant to recirculate the air, unless I am mistaken. Another thing is I dont want to buy parts more than once. If I buy an UICP, I dont want to have to buy a different one later.

Another thing, you don't think it would be a good idea to get DSMLINK first so I can get max performance out of each part as I add it? You are correct on my reasons for getting the MAF/T. I want to vent, I like the sound, and I want to do it correctly. There is nothing wrong with that. To me the added benefits of the MAF/T are just the cherry on top.

Your upgard order sounds great though, I think I will do it that way with the exception of DSMLINK, I think I will get that first. If for no other reason than, i would rather mess up stock parts than upgraded parts. Your help is VERY much appreciated though, thanks.
 
snyper1982 said:
Well the BOV I want is the HKS SSQ. I was under the impression it wasnt meant to recirculate the air, unless I am mistaken. Another thing is I dont want to buy parts more than once. If I buy an UICP, I dont want to have to buy a different one later.
HKS SSQ can be re-circulated, I believe they sell a kit.

You are correct on my reasons for getting the MAF/T. I want to vent, I like the sound, and I want to do it correctly. There is nothing wrong with that. To me the added benefits of the MAF/T are just the cherry on top.
Most people fail to realize that re-circulation, even with blow through, will still help keep the turbo spooled in between shifts. With that said, it's your car your decision.

Another thing, you don't think it would be a good idea to get DSMLINK first so I can get max performance out of each part as I add it?
I'm saying without injectors, you shouldn't have to make any adjustments to either the maft or dsmlink. If logs tell you that you need to, it's usually is an indication that something isn't right. In other words, fix the boost leak instead of tuning it out. DSMLink is great to have later, with the price tag, money can be better spent for better gains.

Your help is VERY much appreciated though, thanks.
You're welcome.
 
You know, I know you more about this than I do. So I am going to follow your advice, in Your order. What parts would you reccomend as far as turbo and IC for 400 HP? What sort of supporting mods as well for the turbo. Or do you think 400 is to much to keep the car streetable?

I know I dont know a whole lot, but wont recirc increase air temp? Just curious, not trying to sound like a smart ass.

Thanks again for taking your time to help a newb like me. I just want to make sure I do everything right the FIRST time, I'm not to big on wasting money.
 
I have a 1990 AWD TSi,

My question is simple, do you HAVE to tap the CAS for the RPM signal (white wire) on the MAFT if your not going to tune with it (stock injectors) to get it to work correctly ???


Also wtf is the other wire for???
 
Yes you have to tap the CAS for a RPM signal for it. It will not work properly without an RPM signal. Also the extra wire which I belive is pink, does not need to be hooked up, it is for secondary injection system such as propane. The MAFT will work fine without it hooked up. Had one on my car and was paranoid about the same wire, you'll be fine leaving it un-hooked up just make sure the MAFT sees a RPM signal form anywhere but the CAS is the easiest and closest one to splice into.
 
Ok, after I thought about it I figured it must have been for the aux remote switch.


But yea even though I didn't really want to I got lazy and just did as the directions said and spliced into the CAS for the RPM signal.

I love it :D new intake & UICP pipe + the GM MAFT hehe, man does it make a diference in responsiveness.

Although I haven't installed my 190lph pump yet so with the new pipes I haven't even got on it. Just 3-4psi.


I also noticed the exhaust now burns my eyes and nose to smell it, where as before it didn't. Is this lean or rich?

I should also say I didn't reset the ECU like the instructions said to. :coy: I think I found out why (stalls alot at first) I guess that is a huge diference after the pipes and the MAFT. I'll reset it when I install the pump tomarrow. I'm thinking since I dont have a logger though and im otherwise on a stock fuel system it would be wise to stay at 10psi so I tuck the MBC off and just ran a stright line to the actuator.


So pissed that for the next yr it's going to sit here only be hammered on by my dad once in a while (err old man has a heavy foot which I dont care but it's my car!) untill I get back from Iraq.

By then she's REALLY going to need a new coat of paint, clear's already pealing bad. :(
 
you can run 15-16 psi on stock injectors.when i first started mine,i had the startup enrichment switch on and it was sending unburnt gas out the exhaust,just like your describing.smells bad and all.get the logger hooked up and see whats going on.but you NEED a logger of some sort to tune it.
 
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