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Basic MAFT Questions [merged] GM MAF Translator

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gotboost55

20+ Year Contributor
132
1
Jan 14, 2003
Basic MAFT Questions
What is it?
What does it do?
Where does it go?
Where does the xxxx color wire go?
Can I vent with a MAFT?
What MAF can I use?
Can I use a 2g MAFT with a 1g?
Can I use a 1g MAFT with a 2g?


Sorry guys !but am not really sure about this one.What does the MAFT really do and is it a good buy?thanks
 
RipperXX said:
I have a 1990 AWD TSi,

My question is simple, do you HAVE to tap the CAS for the RPM signal (white wire) on the MAFT if your not going to tune with it (stock injectors) to get it to work correctly ???


Also wtf is the other wire for???

No, you do not need to hook up the rpm signal wire for the maft to work properly. I have been running mine without it (v2.02) for 6 months and have had no issues.

The white wire is for rpm signal and the purple(not pink) is for aux trigger. You do need to hook up the rpm wire for the aux to work because it is based off of rpm's.
 
Well I just installed the 190lph fuel pump, and I would like to comment on the "Winebro" thing... I sware it's quieter than the stock pump! Maybe that just apply's to the 255?


Anyway since I have no logger im not messing with the MAFT's settings, it's all zero'ed out. Just seems safer to rich than to lean you know.


Also Im afraid to run more boost because of the UICP upgreads. I mean it went from that tiny what 1 3/4" or something like that rubber hose to 2.5" manderal dejon UICP... thats alot high volume of air, so at the same pressure seems to me that 10psi is proably flowing like 14 or so on the stock....hose.


If I hear alot of people setup the same and no problems I might turn up the boost a lb or two, depends on how it pulls since I still need an air filter I haven't actualy put it on the road and made a pull yet. Just putted around the block. :rolleyes:
 
My main question about the GM MAFt setup is can you vent a stock BOV if you run it blow thru? I know you can vent aftermarket BOVs, but what about the stock 1g? Also, does anyone know how much to cut off the IC pipe in a Bushur FMIC kit to kit the MAS to fit? It is kind of hard to line up, and I would hate to cut it too short. Also do I need to flange the end of the pipe. I think I should, but will it work if I don't? I don't really think as tight as the piping fits in there that it could blow the coupler off the pipe, but maybe.
 
You can vent any bov as long as the mas is mounted between the bov and tb.

I dont know exactly how much to cut off of the pipe but you can figure it out after you get all the parts.

Yes, you need to bead the ends of the ic pipes. Just because it is a snug fit doesnt mean the pressure will not find a way to escape.
 
In a blow through setup, you can vent ANY BOV to the atmosphere. This includes the stock 1G and 2G BOV's. (although the 2G BOV is junk and needs to be burnt!) Just for clarification, you must have a GM 3" (or larger) MAF ran right before the throttle body, Ill show my setup for reference. You also must have a MAF Translator that connects to your stock MAF connector and converts the signal to Karmen so it works w/ our DSM's. One will not work w/out the other.

As for your other question. Youll probably have to cut off at least 6", or up to 10" of IC piping depending on the couplers you use. The GM MAF itself is aprox. 4" thick. So depending on the silcone conectors you get, youll just have to measure twice and cut once.

On another not, youll really notice a difference w/ the GM Maf and Translator setup. You'll be able to feel quicker spool up of the turbo, and unless your a completely built race setup, you'll never outflow the GM 3" MAF.

I have the setup in my car and absolutely love it, no messing arond w/ honeycomb mods.
 

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92awddsm said:
Yes, you need to bead the ends of the ic pipes. Just because it is a snug fit doesnt mean the pressure will not find a way to escape.

I will second this along with - if they aren't beaded they blow off much easier. Im even blowing beaded pipes off. If you dont have a maf-t setup for blow through and you blow an IC pipe your stuck till you get the pipe back on.
 
rowlex said:
I will second this along with - if they aren't beaded they blow off much easier. Im even blowing beaded pipes off. If you dont have a maf-t setup for blow through and you blow an IC pipe your stuck till you get the pipe back on.

Are you using T-bolt clamps? My pipes are beaded, and I run T-bolt clamps, along w/ 25 psi daily, and have never blown one off. If you are, try tightening more or possibly getting more of a taller bead on the pipes that blow off.

But yes, beading is a good thing to do. My pipes have bean beaded out w/ a machine and look very clean, however you can bead a pipe your self if you have a welder. Just take the pipe and weld a nice, even bead along the entire diameter of the pipe where the connector will be, or if you cant weld, have local welder do it, it shouldn't cost more than a few bucks.
 
Thanks for the replies and comments. I already have all of the parts needed. Another few ?s though. What do I hook the purple wire to, and what do I set my SAFC to. It is not Karmen Vortex any more correct.
 
turbotsi92 said:
Thanks for the replies and comments. I already have all of the parts needed. Another few ?s though. What do I hook the purple wire to, and what do I set my SAFC to. It is not Karmen Vortex any more correct.
Leave the purple wire unhooked. Its for nitrous/ aux controls for full throtlle activation. Yes, your S-AFC still needs to be set up to Karmen Vortex. The Translator is was converts teh signal back to karmen for our DSM's, If you read my post above, I explained this.

Set your S-AFC to Karmen, and set it to 2 cylinder, if you set it to 4 cylinder, your monitors will be off.
 
Project_tsi,how do you like that slowboy mbc?i was thinking about getting that one but havent found others using it.
 
mkspriggs said:
Project_tsi,how do you like that slowboy mbc?i was thinking about getting that one but havent found others using it.
Its fine. It works fine. No problems. I had a homeade MBC on there and it worked fine too. The reason I have the SBR unit is becouse when I spend $2000 w/ them, they sent it too me for free! In the future, I may be upgrading to a Electronic 2 stage boost controller.
 
mkspriggs said:
Project_tsi,how do you like that slowboy mbc?i was thinking about getting that one but havent found others using it.

I have one and it works fine too.. would buy it again if I had to.
 
project_tsi said:
Are you using T-bolt clamps? My pipes are beaded, and I run T-bolt clamps, along w/ 25 psi daily, and have never blown one off. If you are, try tightening more or possibly getting more of a taller bead on the pipes that blow off.

No, i'm not using any t-bolt clamps. The one that popped off was one that was leaving my turbo expanding from 2" to 2.25". I'll tighten the hell out of it and if it pops off again will t-bolt it :)
 
rowlex said:
No, i'm not using any t-bolt clamps. The one that popped off was one that was leaving my turbo expanding from 2" to 2.25". I'll tighten the hell out of it and if it pops off again will t-bolt it :)

Well there is your problem. Those hose clamps suck ass. You can actually overtighten them and strip them out, I did. Get your self some T bolt clamps and ill bet youll be all set. you can get them at NAPA.
 
project_tsi said:
Well there is your problem. Those hose clamps suck ass. You can actually overtighten them and strip them out, I did. Get your self some T bolt clamps and ill bet youll be all set. you can get them at NAPA.


Yep, I can get them anywhere around here. My buddies shop even carries them but they are damn expensive even with a discount. I have never overtightened/stripped mine. On my old turbo I had even pressure tested it to 30PSI and they all held. I may atleast get a single t-bolt clamp for this connection since It might be necessary.

However I do understand t-bolt clamps are the best thing to use :) If you want to splurge on them it's a good idea. I however drive my tsi awd VERY little, like maybe 1k-1.5K a year so it is not going to get any more expensive parts as I have changed my interest to wanting/saving for a motorcycle.
 
Spray hair spray on your couplers before you torque them down. It makes them harder to blow off. Between hair spray and beading the ends, you should be able to get away with regular hose clamps. Of course if you wanted bulletproof pipes, go with beaded ends, hair spray in the couplers, and t-bolt clamps. Thats what i have and ive gone to 25psi easily.


I also have a question about the blow-thru method. if i were to get the 3" gm maf and translator, do i just plug in the translator? My buddy tuned his car using hte translator and i dont want to tune mine with the translator, my settings are in my AFC, so can i just plug this in and my car will still run perfect along with the added quicker spool?
 
DSMhelex said:
I also have a question about the blow-thru method. if i were to get the 3" gm maf and translator, do i just plug in the translator? My buddy tuned his car using hte translator and i dont want to tune mine with the translator, my settings are in my AFC, so can i just plug this in and my car will still run perfect along with the added quicker spool?

Yes, just plug in the translator and set the dip switches as specified in the instruction. You dont need to hook up the white wire to a tach output unless you are going to use the translator for tuning based on rpm. The purple wire is also left unhooked unless you plan to use it to trigger nitrous or water injection, and in that case, you would need to hook up the white wire also because the trigger is based off of a user programmed rpm point.
 
just got my gm 3" mas today i am awaiting my MAFT. What is the best way to set this up? Does anyone have a list of parts or a diagram? i have a general idea but definitely need some help with setup. Thanks for the help! :talon:
 
i second this post.... im going to be getting mine soon and need to know how to set it up too. any help would be appreciated. :dsm:
 
I hope both of you have considered the MAFTPro as well -- www.maftpro.com It is a LOT better then the GM maft setup.

As far as installation goes it's pretty straight forward depending on your piping.

If you want to set it up in blow-through style, get the neccessary reducers, pick a spot and cut the needed slice out of your upper intercooler piping inbetween the BOV and throttle body.

here's a crappy pic of mine:
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You can also set it up in draw through style, to set it up like this you put it in the same spot as your stock MAS is in, you may have to buy a reducer/expander for it. The nice part about setting itup like this is that if you dont want it to cost you anything it wont-- the pipe is not charged, so you can either do a nice job (reducer/new intake pipe) or just duct tape the hell out of it :)

Good luck guys -- keep in mind the airflow values for the GM MAFT ROUGHLY mimminc the stock 2g mas. I wanted to see how far mine was off and calibrate it, at some points im pulling over 15% of airflow because it reads too much. Unless you are overrunning your stock MAS it would probably be better to keep it until you have some real tuning tools. Its quite possible the performance of your car will drop slightly because of the GM MAFT (until you calibrate it).
 
well is it worth the possible performance draw backs if its pretty much only for the sound? i want to get the 1g, greddy type s or rs BOV with the MAF MAFT setup from extreme psi, exhaust, maybe a 14b turbo, mbc, gauges, maybe intake. not looking to race, just drive a little fast and have a little show-off to it.
 
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