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Basic MAFT Questions [merged] GM MAF Translator

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gotboost55

20+ Year Contributor
132
1
Jan 14, 2003
Basic MAFT Questions
What is it?
What does it do?
Where does it go?
Where does the xxxx color wire go?
Can I vent with a MAFT?
What MAF can I use?
Can I use a 2g MAFT with a 1g?
Can I use a 1g MAFT with a 2g?


Sorry guys !but am not really sure about this one.What does the MAFT really do and is it a good buy?thanks
 
Let me know when you do for sure. What did you use, MS or AEM (i doubt since you said it's comparable to the cost of maft)?

Zero restricted airflow sounds freekin sweet, and sooo much cleaner than a maf set up of some kind.
 
http://ds-map.net - "FREE" speed density setup, you buy the sensors and install them, the tuning software is free.

I don't understand why people would rather pay very high prices for things like dsmlink when you can just go learn

how to do everything the dsmlink does on your own with a little reading. Don't believe me, check out the dsm-ecu discussion

group on yahoo.

Oh, and I apologize for not adding something on topic, I would recommend against the maf-t, my friend just got rid of his because

he hated how it was too difficult to get his car to idle/run correctly. Don't get me wrong, the car hauled ass, but he didn't think

it was perfect and couldn't be fine tuned enough for his liking without a LOT of trouble.... so long story short, leave the gm maf

to the domestic car boys.
 
I don't like that the car can throw cel's and not give the code, thats a big downfall.

This was my problem w/ it too. DSMLink has many more perks than DSMap. But still for the price, waht you get is tremendous.

It's plenty fine for running things like 1000cc injectors and is relatively easy to tune from what I see. It even has a startup flash that will get you at least running rather quickly. It probably would be just fine for a daily driver. I see others doing this.
 
This was my problem w/ it too. DSMLink has many more perks than DSMap. But still for the price, waht you get is tremendous.

It's plenty fine for running things like 1000cc injectors and is relatively easy to tune from what I see. It even has a startup flash that will get you at least running rather quickly. It probably would be just fine for a daily driver. I see others doing this.

Wit the base maps my car stated right up and drove almost like stock. A wideband is a must but tuning is pretty easy. I run 20 psi with no knock and 18 dergrees of timing on pump.
 
I looked in the FAQ but nothing of this was mentioned. I've got a buddy that I can grab a maft translator and sensor from for dirt cheap. The thing is, it was used on a 1g. Are they the same, or is there a difference between a 1g and 2g translator??

:confused:
 
I believe its the same thing, just wires up a little differantly...there are some threads on here about how to wire it on a 2g (i think).
 
3" is plenty. Not much of a difference, but I can't see upgrading to the 3.5" unless you're making really big numbers. And remember that the coupler for a 3: MAF is going to be 3.25" not 3".
 
I recently bought a 1G eclipse. I decided that I wanted to install a blow-thru setup on it. I attempted to install it today, but I'm having some issues, aside from me going out to get a datalogger.

My main concern at the moment is fuel cut. I bought a setup with no tubes on the intake pipe. I took off all of the hoses from the intake, plugged everything off that needed to be, T'd off of the BOV line for the boost solenoid. After all the parts were installed, I took it out for a test run. I didn't give it a lot of gas, but seemingly almost immediately when it started boosting, the car hit fuel cut (or so I think). My friend and I had decided after that, after a lot of deliberation as to what may be wrong, we should try plugging the solenoid into the lower intercooler piping, since it was the only place with a tube. Same effect. Just an aside, I have yet to test for boost leaks.

Is there an issue with me T-ing off of the BOV line or plugging directly into the lower piping?
 
Should'nt be any issues with teeing off bov line. You need to get that logger to check your tune. Maft setups are generally not just turn the dials to match your injector size. Many people have had the dials set to + or - 100cc's of their actual injector size. You may also want to check for boost leaks after the maf. If it is fuel cut your hitting it is probably just a matter of tuneing the car.
 
Dont run anything off the bov line. You can run your boost controller off the outlet nipple or the p port on the throttle body. I never had fuel cut with my old maft, but like what was said, probably just a tuning issue.
 
Alright, so I finally got around to getting datalogging equippment (pocketLOGGER), and found practically nothing. I fixed my idle and that's about it. I don't know what the problem is, but I've got a sound byte.

The sound byte (that I'll upload as soon as I can get to my own PC and convert the file to wav) is me just mashing on the gas pedal to WOT. I'm not creating the fluctuation in the revs. It just does it on its own at about 3k RPM. If I press the gas without boosting enough to get it past 3k, then mash on the gas, it generally does the reving noise once and then goes up normally. Strange. Please help me if you can!
 
Hi all, I have a little question i am looking to get around 400 whp of the SBR 50 Trim. I have all the supporting mod's i think, mod's are in profile. I would like to know if i will need the MAFT or will i be fine with the 2g MAS for the power i am looking to get
 
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