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1G Balance Shaft Stub

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ANGELRAY

Proven Member
89
7
Jan 29, 2024
Lubbock, Texas
I was looking at this site for the balance shaft delete (Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install). I have a couple of questions.
1. Do I need to delete both
2. What all do I need to delete just the rear
I know it's a PITA to do it while the engine is in the bay, but I just wanna be completely sure my rear balance shaft is deleted, I completely forgot when the engine was out
[Edit- pic was when the engine was out]

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Some people do just the rear and are ok with it. For myself, I'm not ok with doing half the job, do it all or nothing. Without removing the front shaft it will still be bleeding off oil through the bearings even though it's not spinning. You're already pulling the front case off so you're 80% of the way there, but will it live fine with leaving it in? Sure, you choose.
 
Some people do just the rear and are ok with it. For myself, I'm not ok with doing half the job, do it all or nothing. Without removing the front shaft it will still be bleeding off oil through the bearings even though it's not spinning. You're already pulling the front case off so you're 80% of the way there, but will it live fine with leaving it in? Sure, you choose.
I get that, but all I plan on doing is the rear till I buy a new Oil Pump, so I can do both with everything new. I just need the rear done so I can get all the money for all that.:pray:
 
I get that, but all I plan on doing is the rear till I buy a new Oil Pump, so I can do both with everything new. I just need the rear done so I can get all the money for all that.:pray:
if you're doing an oil pump soon why bother doing the labor twice? Is there a problem?
 
1. Do I need to delete both
No, you don't need to but like Jason said above that it's up to you. If you would delete the RH shaft (exhaust side), you would have to block the oil feed ports.

2. What all do I need to delete just the rear
You meant the LH shaft the one connected to the oil pump (Intake side).
To delete that shaft, you would need to replace it with a stub shaft or a race shaft. Or cut the shaft and plug the oil passage hole inside the shaft. I would recommend to just replace with a stub shaft. If you go with a stub shaft, go with a Mitsubishi stub shaft (MD098626). Do not use a cheap aftermarket eBay shaft, you will 100% regret about that.

till I buy a new Oil Pump,
Why do you buy a new oil pump? And for whatever reason, can't you wait until you buy a new pump? So you can avoid double working.
 
if you're doing an oil pump soon why bother doing the labor twice? Is there a problem?
I’m not doing it anytime soon I’m doing it when I buy a new block and start a rebuild on it with new everything etc. sorry I didn’t mention that and phrased it wrong too

You meant the LH shaft the one connected to the oil pump (Intake side).
To delete that shaft, you would need to replace it with a stub shaft or a race shaft. Or cut the shaft and plug the oil passage hole inside the shaft. I would recommend to just replace with a stub shaft. If you go with a stub shaft, go with a Mitsubishi stub shaft (MD098626). Do not use a cheap aftermarket eBay shaft, you will 100% regret about that.
Yeah I wanna delete that one for the time being for when I get my other engine built and so I can have a car to drive around
 
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I’m not doing it anytime soon I’m doing it when I buy a new block and start a rebuild on it with new everything etc. sorry I didn’t mention that and phrased it wrong too
If there's no issue with the current pump, there's no need to change it. The only time to change it is if it's damaged. OEM are getting hard to find and I'd run a well used but still good oem pump over any of the aftermarket options any day other than the Frontline Fab pump.
 
If there's no issue with the current pump, there's no need to change it. The only time to change it is if it's damaged. OEM are getting hard to find and I'd run a well used but still good oem pump over any of the aftermarket options any day other than the Frontline Fab pump.
Yeah I get that but I’m not buying it for my current engine. I’m buying it for another one I’m building for my car. Like a full block rebuilt to the from the block to the heads. What I’m worried about right now the balance shaft [LH] to be removed or put the stub in.
 
Still wondering, is there a problem? You seem to be in a rush to get this done? Why not just drive it as is?
Nothing wrong, I just wanna make sure the job was done right. I had this engine in when i got the car the last owner did things he didnt tell me about i just wanna make sure the engine has the right thing on it and if it do have a balance shaft on the [LH] i dont wanna turn on the car it that in it because there is no pulley and belt for the front and when i took my engine out i forgot to check if it had the stub or the full [LH] shaft.
(edit- pic was when the engine was out)
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Nothing wrong, I just wanna make sure the job was done right. I had this engine in when i got the car the last owner did things he didnt tell me about i just wanna make sure the engine has the right thing on it and if it do have a balance shaft on the [LH] i dont wanna turn on the car it that in it because there is no pulley and belt for the front and when i took my engine out i forgot to check if it had the stub or the full [LH] shaft.
(edit- pic was when the engine was out)
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You dont have to remove anything to check. Use the hole in the block that you're supposed to use to check phase.
 
You dont have to remove anything to check. Use the hole in the block that you're supposed to use to check phase.
But how would I know if they didn't use an eBay knockoff . I just wanna be sure that what I have in the engine will work and is from a reliable company.
Let's say there is no shaft, and they do have a stub on it. How would I know if the stub wasn't from eBay? That's the dilemma I'm having right now.
 
But how would I know if they didn't use an eBay knockoff . I just wanna be sure that what I have in the engine will work and is from a reliable company.
Let's say there is no shaft, and they do have a stub on it. How would I know if the stub wasn't from eBay? That's the dilemma I'm having right now.
Fair point. At least you can determine if it does or doesn't have a full balance shaft first. Then its up to you.
 
Do I need to take my oil out before unscrewing that bolt ? And what all do I need to do just the rear ?
No you dont have to remove the oil.
What do you have to do to remove a balance shaft in the rear???
Let's first determine if you have one. Procedures are quite different depending on if you do or don't have one if you intend to remove oil pump and make changes.
There are some unknowns here. Like why is the front belt missing? Did the previous owner have to or choose to?
 
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No you dont have to remove the oil.
What do yiu have to do to remove a balance shaft in the rear???
Let's first determine if you have one. Procedures are quite different depending on if you do or don't have one if you intend to remove oil pump and make changes.
There are some unknowns here. Like whybis the front belt missing? Did the previous owner have to or choose to?
I’m not sure on what the previous owner did I’ve tried to contact them and no reply. I’ll see if I have on shortly too.
 
No you dont have to remove the oil.
What do you have to do to remove a balance shaft in the rear???
Let's first determine if you have one. Procedures are quite different depending on if you do or don't have one if you intend to remove oil pump and make changes.
There are some unknowns here. Like why is the front belt missing? Did the previous owner have to or choose to?
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It would be this whole correct? I put a screw driver in it to see if it hits anything and it doesn’t
 

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It would be this whole correct? I put a screw driver in it to see if it hits anything and it doesn’t
You have to turn the motor over slowly. What supposed to happen. Is you out the oulleybin time and see if the screwdriver goes in or not. Turn the motor slowly by hand. If something hits you have a balance shaft. Obviously don't keep turning if you make contact.
 
Sounds like you need to pull the case and flip the bearings. An oem stub shaft will have an oil groove close to the shaft end where it bolts in the oil pump housing. It will be obvious once you see the two. Ones cheap with no groove. The other is oem with an oil groove.

Flipping the bearings in the car will be a major pain in the ass I’d say. Should pull the pan to get the shavings and debris out of there too if you are doing things “right”.

I use blue loctite and hold the stub shaft end with a box wrench when torquing it. Some will stick it in a vice but I’m not some. I also pack the oil pump with Vaseline if I disassemble it and will change the oil after a heat cycle.

-Daniel
 
Sounds like you need to pull the case and flip the bearings. An oem stub shaft will have an oil groove close to the shaft end where it bolts in the oil pump housing. It will be obvious once you see the two. Ones cheap with no groove. The other is oem with an oil groove.

Flipping the bearings in the car will be a major pain in the ass I’d say. Should pull the pan to get the shavings and debris out of there too if you are doing things “right”.

I use blue loctite and hold the stub shaft end with a box wrench when torquing it. Some will stick it in a vice but I’m not some. I also pack the oil pump with Vaseline if I disassemble it and will change the oil after a heat cycle.

-Daniel
I’m kinda confused on this ? What I plan on doing is just the rear balance shaft
 
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