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Balance Shaft Removal Questions

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Dred

15+ Year Contributor
187
1
Apr 20, 2005
toronto,
I'm a bit confused about to things in the two methods of the removal.
First being the VFaq removal method using mitsu's parts, why are block-off bearings needed for the oil-pump shaft when it will still need to be lubed?(or will it?)

For the second method, it is the one with the 1.25inch screw. I'm guessing the longer screw blocks the hole in the shaft previously used for lubing. The part I dont like about huafist's method is the part where he uses the old balance shaft sprocket. If you ask me, I wouldn't like to see a sprocket hanging out there just doing nothing.


So I want to do the following (correct me if I make mistakes):
Rotate the front balance shaft bearings so that they block the oiling holes and install a frost plug + jb weld. Then make a longer thread for the rear (oil pump) shaft as huafist's method suggests, cut shaft off, smooth out the dings and dents and make the stubby even. Leave the old oil-pump bearings installed and reinstall the stubby back into place w/o the balance shaft.

If there's something wrong with my method, please point it out. If there isn't, please tell me also, I don't want to be stuck at this stage for too longs as I need to get going with the rebuild of my 6bold

Thnx ahead.
 
First I havent used the method in the tech article listed on this site so i wont comment on that. However i did use the vfaq article method. In that method you don't block any of the rear BS bearings at all because the shaft is self lubricating. The only bearings you block are the front shaft bearings after you remove the bs bearing.

When i did mine i just bought the mitsu parts off ebay (~$40) and it came with the stubby shaft so all i did was take the rear bs out and put the little stubby shaft in and that method uses the old sprocket as well. Then you block both front shaft oiling holes with the block off bearings. Im not sure what the point of the screw is but the bearings in the rear bs don't have oiling holes as the shaft is self lubricating.

hope that helps :thumb:
 
Dred said:
I'm a bit confused about to things in the two methods of the removal.
First being the VFaq removal method using mitsu's parts, why are block-off bearings needed for the oil-pump shaft when it will still need to be lubed?(or will it?)

For the second method, it is the one with the 1.25inch screw. I'm guessing the longer screw blocks the hole in the shaft previously used for lubing. The part I dont like about huafist's method is the part where he uses the old balance shaft sprocket. If you ask me, I wouldn't like to see a sprocket hanging out there just doing nothing.


So I want to do the following (correct me if I make mistakes):
Rotate the front balance shaft bearings so that they block the oiling holes and install a frost plug + jb weld. Then make a longer thread for the rear (oil pump) shaft as huafist's method suggests, cut shaft off, smooth out the dings and dents and make the stubby even. Leave the old oil-pump bearings installed and reinstall the stubby back into place w/o the balance shaft.

If there's something wrong with my method, please point it out. If there isn't, please tell me also, I don't want to be stuck at this stage for too longs as I need to get going with the rebuild of my 6bold

Thnx ahead.

I am not sure what is "confusing" here really.. :|

If you tap out your old bearings (front) carefully, you can rotate and re-use them to block the oiling holes. You do not "need" to do anything with the rear bearings since they do not have oiling holes through them like the front. All you need to do is install the stubby shaft (it's not hollow like the stocker you are eliminating) to the oil pump driven gear and install the "cap" to block the hole in the block where the front BShaft came through & attached the front Bshaft sprocket. Finitoo!! :boring:
 
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