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Balance Shaft Elimination Kit: Stubby Shaft.

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TOONAH

15+ Year Contributor
170
2
Jan 14, 2008
Madison, Wisconsin
I have read the suggested threads and have studied the VFAQS regarding the BS elimination stubby shaft, but because of its importance I think all future 4G63 builders need a clear answer to this question. The kits sold on EBay and by Parts Dinosaur are usually the PCI kit or one with the same non-grooved stubby shaft. The Mitsubishi stubby shaft duplicates the actual balance shaft oil pump gear end by machining a chamfered groove around the stubby shaft's circumference about three fifths of the distance back from the gear end. Now that groove is there either to fascilitate the flow of oil into the lateral hole inside the shaft that supplies oil to the bearing further back in the block or to actually permit more oil to lubricate the shaft at the gear end. Some posts I have read claim that the PCI type stubby shaft can sieze up due to lack of lubrication at high RPM's.
This is not good of course, the whole motor could be trashed. In the instructions I recieved
with my kit, it explicitly asks that the clearance of the shaft O.D. and the reciever hole in the pump be at least 5-6thousandths. This I assumed was to assure proper lubrication.
I could see no way of actually measuring the clearance. Could not plastigauge it, no feeler would fit into it. So I said to myself, "it spins freely and has a minute amount of play so its got to be OK". At that time I did not realize that the Mitsu stubby had a groove in it.
Now I am worried. Should I tear my motor (still on engine stand) back down, and replace it with the Mitsu stubby or not? This is my second 4G63 build but I still have not fired up my other 6 bolt engine yet either. I am rebuilding two DSM's. One for my kid and one for me!!!
If any of you have had problems with oil pump destruction due to stubby shafts please reply to this post. I have a wad of dough into these cars.
 
Good eye/brain to even catch this... I've only ever used the mirage stub shaft from mitsu and never had an issue. Do you have any pics of the 2 side by side so i can know for future reference?
 
Here are pictures of the two different types of stubby shaft. As you can see the genuine Mitsubishi one has the chamfered groove and the PCI one does not.
 

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I wouldn't risk it

Take it out and redo it. There have been many horror stories from that shaft, especially with non-oem side cases.
 
Dont use the stubby with no groove. I have personally seen two different cars with the none grooved stubby and both seized into the housing at idle. Get the oem mitsu stubby. Or cut your old balance shaft and weld the hole at the end shut. I never paid for any of my balance shaft eliminations.
 
Thanks guys,
Yeah, the design of the one with the groove looks like it facilitates oil lube to the shaft
more assuredly than the smooth shaft without it. I know you must red locktite the bolt that holds it in and torque it to 29 ft lbs. Think I'll go 35 ft lbs!!!
So I'll be tearing my motor down while all you gearheads are talking Turkey!!!
Seriously, you all have a GREAT TURKEY DAY and drive safe!!
 
Thanks guys,
Yeah, the design of the one with the groove looks like it facilitates oil lube to the shaft
more assuredly than the smooth shaft without it. I know you must red locktite the bolt that holds it in and torque it to 29 ft lbs. Think I'll go 35 ft lbs!!!
So I'll be tearing my motor down while all you gearheads are talking Turkey!!!
Seriously, you all have a GREAT TURKEY DAY and drive safe!!

If it says 29 do it with 29. Over torquing could crack the housing.
 
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