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Awd to fwd how to

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Archer Fabrications

10+ Year Contributor
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May 9, 2011
Scottsdale, Arizona
Okay so i have looked around and nothing i have found answers my question, I'm going to the track tomorrow and my rear diff could blow, how can i make it fwd and have it be safe to drive home? Do i just remove the tcase and tie up the drive shaft?
 
you need a vce, Viscous Coupling Eliminator (VCE) | Sheptrans
, or else your vcu will burn and your center diff will wrek also, my advice : get a flat and get ready to get towed out of the track if your differential breakes.
 
If anything besides what has been listed here, remove the drive shaft. Why would you remove the t-case? If you do that, how is your driver side axle even gonna work.. it splines into the t-case you know. Do what has already been suggested and ensure you keep your car and the other person you're racing safe...
 
The driver side axle splines into the T-case. Therefore, if the OP removes the T-case as he suggested, there's no link to the driver side axle for it to be driven...
 
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Well i just did launches today and everything was fine i just have some quiet ticking comming from back there, i have a shep stage 3 and 4 spyder diff. I'm not going to the track to try and break parts, it works fine as is. I just wanted to know how the eff I'd get home if something did happen. Jeez u guys LOL

The t case has nothing to do with axels, have you ever removed a t case before? It's attached to an intermediate shaft in the transmission. I would have thought if the t case was removed or te drive shaft and t case were disconnected that the car would just act like fwd cause the rear wheels would not be driven by the trans anymore.

Granted the drive shaft would be spinning as the car moves if i tied up and moved it to the side. But it wouldn't be spinning the t-case or anything? So what harm could it do?

Both axels are splined into the center diff i beleve. Or the "final drive"
 
I would have thought if the t case was removed or te drive shaft and t case were disconnected that the car would just act like fwd cause the rear wheels would not be driven by the trans anymore.

your right, but the center diferential wound not last long ( i'm telling by experience LOL).
 
Hummmmm i wonder why? Doesnit just put extra stress on the diff? Why would it damage anything if the drive shaft was removed from the tcase? Just curious for knowledge sake.

I wouldnt think the center diff would be moving any differently? Or does it need the load of the rear gears on the center diff.
 
In AWD system in DSMs there is a viscous coupling that helps divert power to the rear and keep power evenly distributed among wheels. If drive shaft is removed, the coupling would "think" that back wheels are spinning on slippery road. It will react by locking up the transfer case. Doing so will put it under load for longer then it was designed to hold, thus damaging it.
 
Okay so i have looked around and nothing i have found answers my question, I'm going to the track tomorrow and my rear diff could blow, how can i make it fwd and have it be safe to drive home? Do i just remove the tcase and tie up the drive shaft?

I dont see how you made 392.6whp/329.1 lb-ft and flaunt it around like its your mobyDICK, and dont know about your center diff.
 
Flaunt it? It's just there cause thats what i made at the dyno u der shitty circumstances. I think those numbers are rather low. Ive never broken a rear diff (yet) and was curious of the just in case? You mad bro? Lol, ya havin a bad day?
I know you can't tow it unless it's on a flat bed because it would blown the center, but thats cause everything is connected, thought it might just be different if it was disconnected.
 
In AWD system in DSMs there is a viscous coupling that helps divert power to the rear and keep power evenly distributed among wheels. If drive shaft is removed, the coupling would "think" that back wheels are spinning on slippery road. It will react by locking up the transfer case. Doing so will put it under load for longer then it was designed to hold, thus damaging it.

Good info :thumb:
 
In AWD system in DSMs there is a viscous coupling that helps divert power to the rear and keep power evenly distributed among wheels. If drive shaft is removed, the coupling would "think" that back wheels are spinning on slippery road. It will react by locking up the transfer case. Doing so will put it under load for longer then it was designed to hold, thus damaging it.


I was just re reading this and noticed you said it locks up the t case this putting extra load on the center diff, what if the transfer case was completely removed? I have the t case out right now at magnus getting the bearing cover installed and i wanna move the car out of the garage to wash it and such, drive shaft is tied up, any harm that can be done?



I also found it funny those saying dont drive it if i think it's gonna break keep racers safe etc, because thats just the nature of racing, shit breaks, the point of the thread was a just in case,
Anyway I'm curious if it would still damage the trans in any way if the drive shaft is tied and t case removed completely, am i safe to move it back and fourth (in and out of garage 10 or so feet) without locking up the trans or center diff?

Again no VCE and no welded center. Jist a 4 spider center.

In neutral the trans shouldn't care about the t case or not correct?
 
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The driver side axle splines into the T-case. Therefore, if the OP removes the T-case as he suggested, there's no link to the driver side axle for it to be driven...

As you can see from this picture the transfer case has nothing to do with the driver axle spline. That doesn't mean you need to remove the transfer case to go FWD, still your statement doesn't make sense.
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We cleared that up with him last summer LOL. I updated this asking clarification on a post someone else made.

However i think the problem is if it's in gear and you try to move the car, not if in neutral and being pushed correct?

For instance say you broke your t case and you remove it and then someone wants to push you to another location (or onto a flat bed) are you gonna f up the trans by not habing the t case installed if you are in neutral?

Or the real scenario like i already posted LOL?
 
No, you wont damage anything by pushing the car without the t case installed. Ive broken some rear axles in my 1G back when I had 3 bolt rear ends (1G car only), and I can tell you that with a rear axle missing in the back, the car behaved as though the clutch was just slipping with any input from the accelerator, it just didnt want to move. Most dont understand how the VC really works, but there is a lot of info about them out there.
 
No, you wont damage anything by pushing the car without the t case installed. Ive broken some rear axles in my 1G back when I had 3 bolt rear ends (1G car only), and I can tell you that with a rear axle missing in the back, the car behaved as though the clutch was just slipping with any input from the accelerator, it just didnt want to move. Most dont understand how the VC really works, but there is a lot of info about them out there.

Are you trying to say that you can literally push the car with no axles in the rear, or actually drive it like that?
 
No, I meant as in pushing it off the track, or into a garage (very short distance) as was mentioned above. Of course, if you were to drive the thing, without rear axles in the diff housing, youd piss all the oil out the diff housing and damage the ring and pinion at the very least.

One thing I forgot to mention is many years ago, one of my cars was acting as though the clutch was just gone, it was very difficult to gain speed, but I was in the middle of nowhere and had no phone with me at the time and drove many miles like this. Once I finally got the car home, I went to pull the trans to inspect the clutch, and the damn t case wouldnt come free from the output shaft. I dropped both together, then opened the t case, and inside, all the teeth on both gears had sheared completely without a sound, or locking the thing up. It had gotten so hot, it took the teeth off the gears and seized to the output shaft and I had to cut it down on a lathe to get the shaft free. I had not even launched the car at any point at the time either.

Anyway, with the t case out of the loop, obviously no power was making it to the rear, and the center vc certainly wasnt helping the fronts put power down much. I changed that vc when I was ready to put everything back together cause I was fairly sure it was burned up, and if it wasnt before, it certainly was after driving the car that way for as many miles as I did to get it home.
 
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