Asking for advice/thoughts on my build

[WhiteVoid]

Ok so now that I have a steady job again and all the backed up bills are paid, I'm ready to start plotting a list of parts and saving up for and buying said parts. I'm hoping to make about 450whp. I'll be running pump gas which sadly for me means 91 octane. Here's the list of parts I have planned out right now, any thoughts or advice on the set up will be greatly appreciated.

Hard Intake pipe with K&N filter
VRSF 2G Intercooler
JMF Street intake manifold
HKS SSQV
Hallman pro MBC
VRS 3'' turbo back exhaust
Rewired Walbro 255lph fuel pump
FIC 1000CC injectors
FIC Fuel rail
STM -6AN Tank to rail kit
Fuel Lab AFPR
Some kind of Water/Meth injection
Spark Tech Coil on plug ignition
264/264 cams
Koni Yellows
ACT 2600 with street disc
Clutch Masters Billet aluminum flywheel
Driveshaft shop 650 HP aluminum drive shaft
Driveshaft shop 650 HP front and rear axles
Garret GTX3076 .63 AR turbo
Punishment racing twin scroll manifold
44MM Tial MV-S waste gates
Jacks Transmissions Stage 0 engine rebuild
Jacks Transmissions Stage 2.1 Ultimate Synchro transmission rebuild
DSMlink V3
AEM Uego Wideband O2

That's my list so far. As I said above any feedback is appreciated. Let me know if Overkill/underkill or recommendations for different parts or any parts that I missed. I didn't list gauges because I haven't decided which ones I'm going with.

 

[WhiteVoid]

another quick question I want to ask is how street-able is a twin disc clutch? I know the ACT 2600 will make the pedal a little heavier but what about the twin disc? I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of comfort for more power but I don't want to have to strain my leg just to shift the thing.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

My twin disk is a lot easier to push than my single disk with the Clutchmasters PP, and engagement is a lot smoother than the 6 puck sprung disk I had.

The only drawback I've seen is a rattle when the pedal is depressed. Frankly it feels as close to stock as I can buy, in a clutch that will hold my power level.

 

[WhiteVoid]

My twin disk is a lot easier to push than my single disk with the Clutchmasters PP, and engagement is a lot smoother than the 6 puck sprung disk I had.

The only drawback I've seen is a rattle when the pedal is depressed. Frankly it feels as close to stock as I can buy, in a clutch that will hold my power level.

That's good to hear. I may very well use the money I'm saving on not buying the axle's/driveshaft to invest in a twin disc. So does anybody think it's possible to hit my ten second goal on 91 octane or am I just dreaming?

 

[gorf]

another quick question I want to ask is how street-able is a twin disc clutch? I know the ACT 2600 will make the pedal a little heavier but what about the twin disc? I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of comfort for more power but I don't want to have to strain my leg just to shift the thing.

Do about a lot of reading about twin disks before going that way. I put a quartermaster in my car and am not happy with it. Great clutch, it takes some getting used to for a daily driver. It is GRABBY, anyone I let drive the car stalls it half a dozen times. My biggest complaint - it is noisy. Push the clutch in and it rattles. Down shift and it rattles worse.

 

[greydelta38]

This is something absolutely trivial for what you're doing, but I would run with 93 octane as opposed to 91, especially with a full Garrett.

On a different note, that build sounds wicked. Good luck to you.

Just my two cents.

 

[WhiteVoid]

If I had access to 93 octane I would. The highest grade you can get around here is 91. I have toyed with the idea of running octane booster full time as a way to help balance out the fact that I don't have access to "true" premium gas.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

AEM Uego Wideband O2
DSMlink V3
Rewired Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Hard Intake pipe with K&N filter
VRSF 2G Intercooler
JMF Street intake manifold
HKS SSQV
Hallman pro MBC
VRS 3'' turbo back exhaust
FIC 1000CC injectors
FIC Fuel rail
Fuel Lab AFPR
264/264 cams
Koni Yellows
ACT 2600 with street disc
Clutch Masters Billet aluminum flywheel
Garret GTX3076 .63 AR turbo
Punishment racing twin scroll manifold
44MM Tial MV-S waste gates
Jacks Transmissions Stage 2.1 Ultimate Synchro transmission rebuild


this is the order me personally would do this mods list.. basically I'm guessing your DSM is near stock, so the important thing to do first is wideband, and then DSMlink so that when you start throwing parts on it, you can change settings early on before you get a bedrock tune. Also, I moved your Fuel pump and other supporting mods up to the top of the list, because if you start throwing turbo system stuff at it without the supporting mods, you will need a new engine before you know it. Its very important to remember when your doing a complete upgrade tree like this, to take your time. There's only about 6,000 things that can go wrong with installing any of those components, so just take your time, do your research here, and if you still have questions, (research first) then ask! the wise-men on this site are the ultimate source of knowledge and most of them are more than willing to help you, as are the mods. Just take your time, do it right the first time and you will love the set up you create Good luck man

 

[WhiteVoid]

I was actually going to take care of all the intake come this income tax. The previous owner of the car put a turboxs bov on it and kind of ghetto rigged it into the stock 2g bov flange with a rubber coupling and rtv. Plust im pretty sure my stock hosing is leaking in various spots. I was going to get the intercooler, ssqv, boost gauge a mbc and swap it from the t25 to a 14b since i have access to one. And just keep the mbc at about 14 psi.