Asking for advice/thoughts on my build

[WhiteVoid]

Ok so now that I have a steady job again and all the backed up bills are paid, I'm ready to start plotting a list of parts and saving up for and buying said parts. I'm hoping to make about 450whp. I'll be running pump gas which sadly for me means 91 octane. Here's the list of parts I have planned out right now, any thoughts or advice on the set up will be greatly appreciated.

Hard Intake pipe with K&N filter
VRSF 2G Intercooler
JMF Street intake manifold
HKS SSQV
Hallman pro MBC
VRS 3'' turbo back exhaust
Rewired Walbro 255lph fuel pump
FIC 1000CC injectors
FIC Fuel rail
STM -6AN Tank to rail kit
Fuel Lab AFPR
Some kind of Water/Meth injection
Spark Tech Coil on plug ignition
264/264 cams
Koni Yellows
ACT 2600 with street disc
Clutch Masters Billet aluminum flywheel
Driveshaft shop 650 HP aluminum drive shaft
Driveshaft shop 650 HP front and rear axles
Garret GTX3076 .63 AR turbo
Punishment racing twin scroll manifold
44MM Tial MV-S waste gates
Jacks Transmissions Stage 0 engine rebuild
Jacks Transmissions Stage 2.1 Ultimate Synchro transmission rebuild
DSMlink V3
AEM Uego Wideband O2

That's my list so far. As I said above any feedback is appreciated. Let me know if Overkill/underkill or recommendations for different parts or any parts that I missed. I didn't list gauges because I haven't decided which ones I'm going with.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Ditch the tank to rail kit, aluminum driveshaft, upgraded axles, and the coil on plug setup.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I agree with what boomdeeze says, and I think you should take the money you saved on that to upgrade to a water/air intercooler, and a twin disk clutch.

 

[Boomdeeze]

A twin disk still may be overkill for 450whp, I would just get a nice single and call it good. Water /air is also nice but a little spendy compared to a fmic setup. I also use the VRSF fmic and haven't had any issues with it and I'm near 600whp.

 

[crash89]

You also wont need that fuel rail. Stock rails are still being used on 800+ hp applications. Its pointless. I also think a twin disc and air/water IC arent really necessary. The 2600 will be alright, again my buddy had one with his hx40 and was making 640whp on a mustang dyno.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

How about an ETS Front mount intercooler? holiday sale pricing.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Dyno numbers are all fine and dandy, but if you want to run consistent 1/4 mile times, a twin disk works wonders.
The reason for a water to air is that 91 octane fuel is not very high octane. You can buy a whole water to air setup for around $500-$600; not much more than a quality FMIC.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

^ Link please? I think that a water air fmic would work wonders on pump gas, not sure if methanol would be as needed with one of those. Ive heard good things about garrets gtx line.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

Water/air works great on a drag car but is this going to be a street car?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Water/air works great on a drag car but is this going to be a street car?

My daily driver is a drag car thats why i ask .... Ya I'm one of those.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

I wouldn't recommend a water/air for any car that is regular street driven. We can build a custom water/air setup though.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

^ Link please? I think that a water air fmic would work wonders on pump gas, not sure if methanol would be as needed with one of those. Ive heard good things about garrets gtx line.

My mistake. The 600HP kit is only $299./ It's the 1200HP kit that's almost $500.

Water to Air Intercooler

If water to air doesn't work on the street, then a bunch of factory stock F-150 Lightning, and Cobalt SS drivers are in for some bad news.

Heck I should sell my used Precision FMIC before I bash it into the pavement too many times, and use the money to buy this. Anyone want a 600HP precision FMIC for $299? Pretty sure it was $500-$600 new.

I'm sick of charging 5+ feet of pipe anyway.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

I wouldn't recommend a water/air for any car that is regular street driven.

Who said it wouldn't work? I said I wouldn't recommend it. Since when is the factory setup ever been the best possible choice anyway?

 

[WhiteVoid]

My bad, i forgot to say that this will be a daily driven car. I appreciate the input, especially regarding the fuel set up saved me quite a bit of money. The fact that its a daily driver is the main reason i was going to go with the new axles and driveshaft, cut down on rotating weight to help recoup some of the gas mileage I'm going to lose with all the performance upgrades. One question though, why would a water to air intercooler not be ideal for a street car?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Ok, you're right, you didn't say it wouldn't work.

Why wouldn't you recommend it for the street. A friend of mine has an F-150 Lightning, and it seems to work fine on the street.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

Here is a better example of what could happen.

water/air vs air/air

So its just a matter of if he is driving on the street and on it then he could heat soak the system. Not to mention it requires a heat exchanger anyway.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

No, here's a better example:
Water to Air Intercoolers at FROZENBOOST.COM

Here's a quote from the linked page:
"Bugatti Veyron.
The Bugatti Veyron is equipped with a water to air intercooler. 1,001 horsepower, 250 MPH cars might be somewhat common at the drag strip, but that's not what the Veyron is about. The Veyron is an all-around car, not just a top-speed monster. That's the reason it is the most expensive car in the world and they still lose money on every one. Bugatti chose a water to air intercooler for this car because it is absolutely the best system available. The Ford GT and Ariel Atom also use water to air, for a more real-world example."

The heat exchanger it requires, is not as massive as what you need for FMIC applications.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

Still have the extra weight of the water system. the front mounted heat ex-changer and the water/air intercooler it self. Plus making room for all of this in a street driven car? not my idea of practical. How many cars out there are running water/air intercoolers on daily drivers? what if a hose comes loose you dump all the water in the system out and heat soak the intercooler without knowing it? its just more to go wrong. on a DSM do you really need MORE things to go wrong? what if the pump fails? are you going to know? to many variables for me to ever put one on my daily driver.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Still have the extra weight of the water system. the front mounted heat ex-changer and the water/air intercooler it self. Plus making room for all of this in a street driven car? not my idea of practical. How many cars out there are running water/air intercoolers on daily drivers? what if a hose comes loose you dump all the water in the system out and heat soak the intercooler without knowing it? its just more to go wrong. on a DSM do you really need MORE things to go wrong? what if the pump fails? are you going to know? to many variables for me to ever put one on my daily driver.

I understand that they are plagued with all these inherrent problems, but they run fine on millions of factory built cars, so it can't be all that bad. I rarely hear of anyone having any of these failures you speak of. My buddy's Lightning has a ton of miles on it, and the coolant still looks new, and the bosch pump has never failed.

It'a also been moded, and dynos 650 at the rear wheels. All stock intercooling system.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

I'm not doubting they can't make power. they DO make better power. Just a quick question though. What kind of intercooler do you run personally on your car?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

As I said in post #12, I run a Precision FMIC.

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I think it's exactly this one. It's big and get's in the way sometimes. It also requires several feet of pipe.

If I hadn't scored it for a scant $75, I would be running a water/air setup by now. I will admit it's infinitely better than the JDM sport FMIC I had before. That thing didn't cool my air charge at all, and was restrictive even with a 16g.

 

[PrimerPLus]

I would ditch the C.O.P setup, aluminum driveshaft, the aluminum flywheel(better option is ACT Streetlite)
Tank to rail not needed unless yours is trashed. FIC fuel rail ditch it your stock one is just fine, you can always clean it up and make it look nice paint it.
I would look into upgrading your springs and possibly valves, for cams I would go with 272/272 hks cams,
PR FMIC

What springs you getting with the koni yellows?

 

[WhiteVoid]

I would ditch the C.O.P setup, aluminum driveshaft, the aluminum flywheel(better option is ACT Streetlite)
Tank to rail not needed unless yours is trashed. FIC fuel rail ditch it your stock one is just fine, you can always clean it up and make it look nice paint it.
I would look into upgrading your springs and possibly valves, for cams I would go with 272/272 hks cams,
PR FMIC

What springs you getting with the koni yellows?

I have no idea what springs to run. I was going to go with eibach prokits but I read somewhere on here that they are actually softer than our stock springs. I'm open to suggestions.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Ground Control coil overs DO eet!
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=52/CA=26

 

[WhiteVoid]

I like those ground control springs. The adjustable height would be really nice since this car will be a street/strip hybrid. I also somehow forgot to mention that i will be getting carbon fiber hood, fenders and hatch to help ditch some of the weight. I also forgot to mention my goal time wise in the quarter mile, I would really like to get it into the mid 10's but i would settle for the low 11's. Again this will be on 91 octane which is the main reason I've added water/meth.