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6 bolt build advice...

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JDMTransfer

10+ Year Contributor
71
0
Dec 3, 2009
So.Royalton, Vermont
ok guys just lookin for some advice. i have a stock 6 bolt and all of the internals. im lookin to build 600+ hp from it and im lookin for advice from u all on what internals to use and whats better. also im need some advice on stroker kits, is it easier to buy the kit or just build one from scratch?
 
i recenly built a stroker kit with eagle rods and wiseco pistons it has benn a great engine and have had no probs with it
 
I know that Eagle rods are rated up to 700hp. Any piston should work really. I will say to get all ARP internals, L19 head studs and consider the Kiggly main girdle. Felpro mls headgasket has some very high ratings. Consider checking out what other people are running and get an idea from their builds.
 
This is my SAAG 2.3 6bolt recipe.
__________^
____(Subtle As A Gun)

100mm Eagle Crankshaft
Groden 150mm Aluminum Rods (forget steel)
Wiseco Stroker Pistons .020 over
Standard ARP Head Studs (85 LBS)
Kiggly Main Girdle
ARP Main Studs (60 LBS)
Copper Head Gasket

Piston to Wall = .004
Top Ring Gap = .018
Bottom Ring Gap = .019
Piston to Head = .055 (AL rods stretch slightly more than steel rods)

If you use Groden AL rods the "suitcase handle" main caps need a small amount of material removed for rod clearance, the bottom of the cylinder bores also need to be "notched" to accommodate the thicker rods.

Make the machine shop use a torque plate when boring the block, the Head Gasket
and the Head Studs should also be with the torque plate. Make sure that you know what torque sequence is used to secure the torque plate and use the same sequence when installing the head!

If you have the money buy the Wiseco HD pistons and use L19 head studs.
 
If you have a good 6 bolt block. I would personally buy all the parts and have a shop do it so you know its good done your way with your parts and you can see it. and have it all done to the specs you desire.

when you say 600+hp thats kinda generic.
If you mean 600+ meaning as high as 650-700 then thats a different set up then 600+ meaning 600-1000.
completely different

And it depends on stroker or no stroker?
what stroke?
turbo?
Daily driver or track whore car.


Other things like trans, awd/fwd etc etc the list goes on and on.

If you could be more specific about ## goals more like a turbo/motor/better closer hp goal then the help would be alot more clear and direct to you.

Don't listen to the guy above telling you to buy aluminum gorden rods. those rods are the highest HP rated rods you can buy but you have to do ALOT machine work to the block and they will only last you 1 year at the track or less before your replacing those rods.

If you plan on going over 30psi on any turbo you need to go with the L19 arp head studs but if not then the reg. arps are fine. Wiseco HD pistons are also over kill they are designed for motors 1000hp which probably isn't your goal.

I would just go with a simple wiseco normal forged pistons and eagle H-beam rods, a good stock crank can handle almost anything you throw at it. and that bottom end will get you safely to 600-700hp safely with the right tune.

Remember the higher your goals I.E. HP and 1/4 times the more things are gonna break the more your gonna be rebuilding and the more things your gonna need I.E. better clutch better tires better injectors. and the more the whole things is gonna cost.

Let me know what your plan is in better detail
 
ok well thanks for all the info, im lookin to run between 600 and 725 hp wise. i know i know thats a lot of over kill but im sick of punk kids runnin honda and vw`s thinkin there fast. as far as turbos go in a new guy to that and thats why im lookin for advice. and for stroker kits...i was tryin to find out exactley what car(year and model) i had to pull a crank from to make the ol 2.4 stroker.thanks
 
I would just forget about building a "600+hp motor, if punk kids, honda's and vw's is the reason for this!
 
I would just forget about building a "600+hp motor, if punk kids, honda's and vw's is the reason for this!

A lot of people underestimate and talk bad about those Hondas.
Those Honda with the stock single cam are trash BUT
THOSE HONDAS with k series in them and only 10g's in parts are running 9's with all motor setups.

I hate Honda just as much as the next guy, but I respect them.
 
A lot of people underestimate and talk bad about those Hondas.
Those Honda with the stock single cam are trash BUT
THOSE HONDAS with k series in them and only 10g's in parts are running 9's with all motor setups.

I hate Honda just as much as the next guy, but I respect them.


They need engine swaps to go fast.
 
and why would i forget about building the 4g63 when my car is a nt? i have the turbo motor?

oh and what reason should i have for building a fast car? other peoples junk not enough reason...
 
Regardless of the reason behind your desire, 600+ on a fwd is not going to be much faster than 350 would. It isnt going to be much fun, and when one of those 'honda punks' annoys you enough you wont think about your lack of traction past half throttle. If you arent doing the build for the love of speed, cars, or just the rush, then your frustration will get the better of you and it will be like throwing that money in the trash
 
this thread is a waste of time its about building a motor not, not why or the reasons behind it....and for ## info i have a junk gsx with all the AWD parts i need...and ive seen plenty of 500 600 700hp fwd cars at the track not lose power after there launch
 
You would be better off crushing your NT and tossing the built motor in the AWD.
If you have a Turbo car already pop the hood and LOOK at the motors side by side and then come back and tell us you think you can make the 4g63/64 work in your N/T.
I almost want to sell my car after coming on tuners. Makes me sick listing to all this BS. Why does EVERY noob want 600hp? My FWD DSM had 350ish and was useless. 14sec fast while my 250 hp AWD did 13.8.

I hope you build a $10,000 motor so I can buy it off you for $2500 after you get pissed off you cant fit it in your POS N/T FWD.
 
Wel, if that is the attitude you have about it, I would just go with what spoonman suggested. Even though it is a little overbuild and sounds more like full race engine.

If you are going to do the AWD swap, then that is another story all together, and I would think you should have posted that info to begin with. And, if you are planning to do the awd swap, I would recommend you do that first and leave everything else alone until you know that you have everything solid.
 
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