My 6-bolt speed density build

[AlphaVision]

So,

I've started by 6-bolt build. What I am looking is to build a RELIABLE street car. With lag as little as possible, response - as high as possible. Looking for 450+ HP on a 93 fuel (here I can't get better fuel than that )


The block and head are disassembled and I have almost made up my mind. I rate myself as average in terms of engine building knowledge so any advice will be appreciated.

Here is the setup:
- FP68HTA Turbo (internally gated)
- Walbro 255 HP
- FIC 1050's
- Fuelab AFPR
- CX Racing FMIC 29x9x3 with 2.5" piping
- stock TB and IM
- speed density setup with Jackal used for tuning
- 8.5:1 forged pistons and rods (still in doubt what brand to use)
- Stock 1G BOV with the dodge garage mod
- ACL Race main and rod bearings
- ARP Head studs (not L19)
- revised lifters
- MLS Headgasket
- no springs upgrade at this point (keeping the stock rev limiter)
- adjustable cam gears
- 2.5" o2 housing, 3" turbo back exhaust

for now maybe I will try using the stock cams and some cams that I have from some old N/A 260/260 (9.5 lift) cams to see the results.

So, I am looking for your input.

 

[AlphaVision]

Well I gor myself in a serious doubt these days - 8.5:1 or 9:1 pistons...

what do you guyts think? really started to confuse myself with too much thinking...

 

[LiquidX]

So,

I've started by 6-bolt build. What I am looking is to build a RELIABLE street car. With lag as little as possible, response - as high as possible. Looking for 450+ HP on a 93 fuel (here I can't get better fuel than that )


The block and head are disassembled and I have almost made up my mind. I rate myself as average in terms of engine building knowledge so any advice will be appreciated.

Here is the setup:
- FP68HTA Turbo (internally gated)
- Walbro 255 HP
- FIC 1050's
- Fuelab AFPR
- CX Racing FMIC 29x9x3 with 2.5" piping
- stock TB and IM
- speed density setup with Jackal used for tuning
- 8.5:1 forged pistons and rods (still in doubt what brand to use)
- Stock 1G BOV with the dodge garage mod
- ACL Race main and rod bearings
- ARP Head studs (not L19)
- revised lifters
- MLS Headgasket
- no springs upgrade at this point (keeping the stock rev limiter)
- adjustable cam gears
- 2.5" o2 housing, 3" turbo back exhaust

for now maybe I will try using the stock cams and some cams that I have from some old N/A 260/260 (9.5 lift) cams to see the results.

So, I am looking for your input.

First off, I'm not too sure if you are able to use Jackal, I was under the impression it was only for 1g DSMs. However, you DO have a 99 ECU and can do your own flashing on it so that's a plus

In all honesty, I would hold off on the cam gears until you really need every last pony out of the engine unless you either already have them or are very cheap in price.

Not sure on cost difference, but check out the VRSF FMIC kit.

Being in Europe you'll have a better chance to find the "JDM" parts. Look for the Evo3/RVR intake manifold. It's a better/shorter IM that bolts right up to the 2g head. It also allows the use for the 1g TB (larger) but the RVR IM will need to be bored our a few mm to match. Great upgrade IMO.

Be sure to surface both the head and block to a mirror finish if you are going to use a MLS head gasket. If you still plan on using it, OEM is very nice.

What kind of boost are you trying to run and where is your wideband o2? Also, here is the start of the 450HP range from other members here Dyno Challenge

 

[AlphaVision]

Thanks for the reply.

I have 1G 6-bolt long block, 1G Engine harness and 1G ECU in my car. Everything that is mounted to the engine is 1G including intake manifold, throttle body, alternator, steering pump, etc...So when we talk about engine think of me as I was 1G DSM

I have Ostrich 2.0 installed and use Tunerpro to tune. I have already bought the SD setup and the IC. I wanted to keep my fog lights for now otherwise VRSF intercooler would be my first choice.

Do you think I can use 9:1 pistons with that setup?

 

[LiquidX]

Yes, 9:1 CR pistons will be fine. All that happens is you'll just need to tune for it like any other car. If you were planning on running higher boost then I'd say get a lower CR but it's all up to you really. The higher CR will just give you more umph pre turbo.