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Good to see a very involved water/meth injection person on this site. There are so many questions on setups that I am sure its hard...

DSMLink has a feature that is nitrous controlled, where you can operate it at certain rpms at more than percentage tps and it will basically provide power to the line. Would you recommend this or to use your controllers?

Since I will be looking at basically running washer fluid which is 20/25% meth, the rest water, what nozzle would you recommend for a 16g at 20-26 psi (some people have run up to 26 psi with water/meth)? I would really like this for safety during road racing, to keep the temps down, as I will always be battling temps. I would want a nozzle that could cooperate at 20-26, but also could be set to come on at as low as 16-18 psi for road racing...
 
O I am very interested in these questions, I can't wait for the response, and I hope you can elaborate on the dsmlink nos controller question also.
 
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Because my FMIC should cool the charge decently, I'm thinking about running 75% meth, 25% water. My limited research/knowledge leads me to believe water helps more in those cars with less than optimal I/C setups, thus the greater need for water's cooling ability, while meth is for those efficient (or overdone) FMIC setups which would benefit more from the octane properties in meth, while still benefiting somewhat from the 25% water.
meth atomizes better and offers a better intercooler property than water because it absorbes the heat "quicker" than h2o. However, h2o in the combstion chamber is where it shines!!! It slows the burn down (raises the effective octane) when it DOES begin to absorb the heat because it absorbs so MUCH heat. The point: the threshold if absorbtion is different, not just the percent absorbtion.

If you want the octane properties of meth then you need to mix it in the gasoline in your tank. I.E., run LOTS of it at the injector nozzle (much larger than the cc rating than your injectors).
 
UofACATS
I would start off with an m5 nozzle. in notes put you need a 3,5,7 so i can get you the 3 nozzles closest to what your going to need for tunning. I would start off with a 50/50 mix.

D_Eclipse9916 our controller is going to work nicer than most built in engine controls hardware. Some do have pwm outputs but can't provide a 10amp draw so a relay would be needed and relays are slow response time. With what your talking about its an on/off setup and it would function simlar to our base kit. I would run DSMLink to controll our system over our base kits switch. But our progressive kit will function nicer than both our base kit and DSMLink.

With progressive kits this even goes for other manufactures, you can usually have your alky come on around 4-5psi and have it ramp up to your max boost. With using what your talking about its going to be and on /off setup and will need to come on at the lowest 3/4 of your max boost. The progressive controllers are what allow for you to start cooling earlier. Its also easier to tune. We do have many dsm running our base kit and are happy with them.
 
I am battling a heatsoak issue and was wondering if one pre tb nozzle isn't enough could a second nozzle pre i/c be added to your base injection kit? Is is as simple as t-ing the second nozzle into the feed line for the tb one and run them both at the same time?

Thanks
 
I have a snow meth kit, and I'm having some troubles finding a 0-5v source for the kit to run off of.

When hooking the thing up directly to my GM MAF it seems to like to turn on at very low crusing speeds (1,500-2,000 rpms) This is with the 2 adjustment dials set to their max.

Anyone have any ideas... or anyone have a list of 0-5v sources that would be comprable turn-on sources?
 
DJ23GSX,
yes, you can add a 2nd nozzle simply as putting a tee in. But i highly recommend not putting a nozzle infront of the ic anyways. I think its best to only run 1 till about 500hp.

96gsdsm
gm maff sensors are freq based not voltage based. You need to run a 2 or 3 bar map sensor would be the most ideal. Only sensor in the car that is 0-5 v is your tps sensor.
 
Hmm, ok. I can live with that. Thanks. :thumb:
 
Just wanted to point out something interesting I found. The winter formula washer fluid from Walmart seems to be the favorite injection mix for most guys. Browsing the WI threads these last few days I have seen the meth amount consistently reported as being 49%.

I noticed a couple guys stated that it is actually only 25-33% meth. So I checked the MSDS. It appears that they are right. The Super Tech -20 washer fluid that Walmart sells is 30% methanol.

Here is the MSDS:

http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/35996_2.pdf
 
I have a couple questions on your kit I'm installing...
1st. I need about 3 more feet of hose. Where can I get that? I want to finishe my install tomorrow! :)
2nd. The ignition 12volt source, where do you recommend I get that some? Can't I just use the 12 volt off the battery again?

So far everthing is going well. The tap worked perfect between the two window washer motors.
 
I have a couple install questions as well. I ordered my Devilsown kit the other week & haven't received it yet (so this may be covered when I get the kit) but I was wondering if my tank is trunk mounted, will the pump work equally the same as both a pusher or puller? Basically can I mount the pump far away from the tank in the engine compartment or should the pump be mounted in the rear closer to the tank? My other question is about how far the nozzle should be away from the TB? I think mine basically has to go into my aftermarket TB elbow as the next section of pipe has the BOV mounted just past the coupler that attaches to the TB elbow. I was thinking its probably not a good idea to place the nozzle before my HKS BOV, as it may damage it?

One other thing you mentioned above most tune to the 12-12.5 range with meth injection. I wanted to keep my tune on the safe side (bought the kit so I can run abit more boost on pump & add some timing back in) & didn't plan on leaning the air/fuel mixture. I was planning on running ~11 to 1, so I know obviously the richer air/fuel ratio won't net as much power as if I tuned it leaner but my question is with running this richer air/fuel ratio with a 50/50 meth/water mix, will it still give me the same performance as if I ran the same setup on straight pump? (with all other variables being the same) I was planning on having 2 tunes, the DD "safe" tune which is basically running a couple more psi, slightly leaner air/fuel & adding timing back in where it had to be removed to run my current 20 psi on pump. And then a "race/track" tune where I would run the leaner ~ 12 to 1 air/fuel & add more timing to the stock curve if possible, while running a few more psi as well.
 
From what I have seen the nozzle should be after the BOV and before the elbow. I have seen this on about three different kits. I thinks for your other question you are looking at this too conservatively. The methanol will put your octane rating high enough to run 27psi and some sources say up to 30. If you are only bumping it up a couple I think it will hurt you more than help. I guess this matters on what your fuel and engine control look like too but my opinion is you are running a little too safe. Adam at Devotuning told that the octane rating should be as follows : 0-20psi=93 octane, 21-25=100 octane, 26-32=110 octane, 32+=C16. I know there are a few octane ratings inbetween but this is what is available in my area so that is what I used. This also my fluctuate a bit if you have a AEM EMS or Autronic or can tune DSM Link well.
 
I just got my kit with the 150psi black pump from Cooling Mist and have a question. I am mounting the pump in the trunk and using the stock bottle, but the boost switch is attached to the pump. Am I going to have to run a vacuum line all the way to the trunk? How is it going to stay attached to the boost switch since it's just a small plastic nipple? Any ideas where I should tap for the vacuum / boost to the switch?

It looks like all the other kits I see have a boost switch that you can mount where you want, as opposed to being attached to the pump.
 
Why not mount your pump in the engine bay. Having the reservior in the trunk is a good idea and has shown good results. But, as long as the pump is lower than the reservior (to issure the lines before pump ar primed always), why bother:confused: ?
 
Well, I wasn't quite sure about that. The washer bottle is in the trunk and no one had Daren's question about the pump pulling as well as it pushed. Every installation I have seen on the 2g's involve mounting the pump next to the washer bottle. Also, there really isn't much room in under the hood. Mitsubishi has everything jammed in there pretty good.
 
True. I keep forgeting that you're a 2g. The bay seams a bit more cozy. FWIW, I've been running all my water injection setups w/ sureflo pumps and have the resevoir in the trunk/hatch and the pump in the cab or engine bay. I don't know whether these pumps push better than they pull. But I havn't personally noted a flow problem w/ long lines from the reservoir when the pump is below the reservoir.
 
I'm just not sure I would be able to get the pump lower than the washer bottle, since the bottle is so low in the car.

Does anyone see a problem running a vacuum line all the way to the trunk? I'm not even sure where I would tap. Normally I would go for the FPR, but I'm afraid that the long run might change the pressure going to the FPR and therefore change the way it increases with boost.
 
truwarrior

Sorry i did not see i had pending questions.

Send me an email with your addy and i can get some to you.

No, it needs to be ignition on, so its not always on, try using a cig lighter power wire is a good source in most cars.


daren_p
\
The pump works better as a pushing that pulling so its best to keep the pump close to the tank as possable.

Before the BOV can cause the alcohol mix to vent when the bov opens. I would put it after it.
Its probley not going to be a noticable differnce when your running it that way.

spyderturbo007
With there setup you will need to run the vaccum hose to your trunk. Any vaccum line that is 1/8" or bigger willl do. We usta sell that style of boost sensor and you will be best off since its plastic to leave it in the trunk.

dsm-onster
as long as there is a good gravity feed it works good doing that.

spyderturbo007
Your not going to have a lag with a long boost/ vaccum line.
 
Well my kits here, looks like I hopefully be installing it this weekend. I think I'm going to use the factory resevoir & mount the pump in the spare tire well. I was thinking instead of running another power line all the way to the battery, I'll just tap into the power line for my fuel pump rewire. Does anyone see an issue with this? Its a 10 awg wire direct from the battery & has a 30 amp inline fuse I believe. I guess I could probably tap into the switched 12 volts source at my pump rewire as well?
 
It means exactly what is said. . .:confused:

Water/alky injection raises the effective octane in the combustion chamber to race gas levels. It slows the burn down to the rates of slow burnign race gas. It allows race gas timing and A/F ratio curves. And higher ("race gas level") boost. It allows one to get away w/ a smaller intercooler, but still achieve the same results as a much larger one. It is divine and should be addressed w/ reverance and any personification of such should be pictured w/ a halo:D .
 
UofACATS I would start off with an m5 nozzle. in notes put you need a 3,5,7 so i can get you the 3 nozzles closest to what your going to need for tunning. I would start off with a 50/50 mix.

:thumb: Thank you sir. Placed my order today.
 
Thanks, When you get your kit can you get some pics ###. So people know what there getting into...

Yes sir, will do. Kit arrived today.

Hit the track tonight for "before" times/datalogging. Back to the track again in two weeks for some meth-injected results.


:)
 
Do you have a DSM specific install instructions for the progressive kit? I received "universal, base kit" instructions. I've notified the vendor who I purchased the unit from, but thought to ask the source directly as well.

Thanks
 
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