2G Another DSM in time attack/road racing! Cooling ?s

[Wufei]

Thanks for all the continued great input guys! I upgraded to an Evo 9 oil filter housing and 8/9 oil cooler, and never saw temps above 210 this weekend at Buttonwillow, and that was only for a sec cuz I didn't even bother to turn the heat on Ran a 2:12 with literally no brake pad left ...

Thanks to the great research & writeup @snowborder714! The 8/9 stock oil cooler & lines fit without much work. The main thing was grinding/cutting the tabs off the banjo connectors so you can adjust the angle at which the lines connect to the housing & cooler.

Evo 9 OFH in 2g: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo-9-ofh-in-2g.393382/

Oil cooler line setup: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.298569/page-26#post-152527852

 

[tsiboosted]

Glad to hear everything worked out for you at the track, Wufei. Great to see fellow DSMers (like @snowborder714) continue to provide great insight and knowledge for those wanting to no more and improve their cars for not only track competition, but daily driving as well.

Kudos to everyone involved in this great community!!

 

[Wufei]

Thanks Eddie and likewise! Now I'm figuring out my brake setup...will track pads be enough for time attack w/the 2g AWD calipers or should I go Evo Brembo's?

 

[T2Small]

I quickly got sick of the factory calipers using them on track. It was getting old replacing burned out dust seals, stuck slider pins, and badly tapered pads. For a while I was happy with the Cobra style setup and 13" rotors. I haven't used EVO Brembos but I suspect they are a good choice. Personally I'm going bigger.

For a couple of laps you can make the factory stuff work with aggressive enough pads and some ducting. The issues I had were related to lack of ducting and after 3 to 4 sessions of 10 minutes of lapping time in a day I'd have to really work over the factory setup (fluid, pads, rotors, slider pins, and dust seals).

 

[tsiboosted]

The only problem I have commenting on brakes (especially) is that my setup and advice is based purely on a race prepped car, not a daily driven car. My car is much lighter than any DD on here so I can get away with different setups than most can.

Currently all I have as far as brakes is the GSX upgrade (2 piston calipers & rotors) with Hawk HP+ pads in the front and HPS pads in the rear. When more money comes in and we shake down the car here upcoming I'm sure an actual "big brake" kit will be on the shopping list.

I can say this ... I use to run that setup without changing anything for two events back in the day. Meaning full practice sessions on a Saturday (at least 4, 20 minute runs) then the race on Sunday (3, 20 minute runs) without having to change anything on my brake setup.

I run nothing but blank rotors I get from an auto parts store and the pad setup I mentioned above. Never had brake fluid boil, pad fading, etc. I would change pads all the way around and front rotors only every two events. Never once did I have any brake issues at all.

 

[snowborder714]

What was the car's weight last you remember?

 

[tsiboosted]

I could know for sure if I was at home and could see my last log books. I want to say it was some where around 2500-2600 fully fueled with me in it.

So if you figure this:

Driver: 240 lbs
Fuel: 60 lbs (10 gallons)
Totals: 300 lbs

The car by itself was probably around 2200-2300 lbs. You figure this car's curb weight was somewhere around 2800 lbs or so, that is a significant weight reduction, even after adding the cage after gutting the car.

Add the weight difference and the fact I was running lightweight wheels and pure racing slicks. The stopping ability of my car to a DD car are vastly different even if the DD car had the same setup as I did.

p.s. - Sorry to hijack the thread

 

[Wufei]

@tsiboosted not at all! You provided some great data. I'm assuming you're not running full interior? Do you have a post/thread that details all your weight reduction? I sure wouldn't mind lightening the car up

 

[tsiboosted]

Yeah, sorry ... I did not do any write up or do much other than rip stuff out

The only interior I have is the factory dash, which is also gutted. It has/had to be in due to the class rules I was running in. Still some more to get out and that will be done once the car is here with me in Orlando.

 

[Wufei]

@tsiboosted bummer haha. Any tips on what were the biggest bang for buck in weight reduction?

 

[TSiAWD666]

Doors. They are 87lbs each (including the glass, not including the interior door trim or speakers).

 

[Pipnorcali]

Doors n seats are big ones...All the interior bits add up too...I made a lexan sunroof when my oem one broke..so much wieght to take out of these piggys...

 

[Wufei]

Unfortunately in my TA class I need to run full interior, OEM glass, A/C, heater, and body-wise can only change the hood/trunk to non-OEM. Any other big ones?

 

[snowborder714]

Is all your HVAC stuff gone?

 

[Wufei]

Is all your HVAC stuff gone?

oop forgot to mention has to keep A/C & heater too. tho I don't mind that much given it's SoCal

 

[Wufei]

Just did a full day at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana in 110F weather...I'm DEFINITELY keeping the HVAC haha. Car ran great (keeping it 2 hot laps in a row or less), finally have some 255 tires!

Compression is now 115 tho...at least it's consistent across the board ?

Click & follow for more pics!

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[338vr4]

! Awesome dude. I hope you get everything figured out. I just built ducting for my radiator and a bunch of other stuff. Hopefully ill get out to Fontana in Nov. I would love to meet up

 

[Wufei]

@338vr4 thanks man! Definitely getting there, need to redo the spring rates (for road racing you do not want the front to have almost double the rates of the rear), some aero, and it'll be a beast! Should give the Evos a run for their money

 

[Apache]

@@338vr4 thanks man! Definitely getting there, need to redo the spring rates (for road racing you do not want the front to have almost double the rates of the rear), some aero, and it'll be a beast! Should give the Evos a run for their money

I do believe that that is indeed the ideal F:R balance for the 2G DSM from nearly everything that I've read, albeit every car is slightly different based on it's exact configuration. I'm curious as to what has led you to your conclusion.

 

[karlcho88]

The only problem I have commenting on brakes (especially) is that my setup and advice is based purely on a race prepped car, not a daily driven car. My car is much lighter than any DD on here so I can get away with different setups than most can.

Currently all I have as far as brakes is the GSX upgrade (2 piston calipers & rotors) with Hawk HP+ pads in the front and HPS pads in the rear. When more money comes in and we shake down the car here upcoming I'm sure an actual "big brake" kit will be on the shopping list.

I can say this ... I use to run that setup without changing anything for two events back in the day. Meaning full practice sessions on a Saturday (at least 4, 20 minute runs) then the race on Sunday (3, 20 minute runs) without having to change anything on my brake setup.

I run nothing but blank rotors I get from an auto parts store and the pad setup I mentioned above. Never had brake fluid boil, pad fading, etc. I would change pads all the way around and front rotors only every two events. Never once did I have any brake issues at all.

I ran the same setup with project mu HC800 pads and they ran well (93 Galant FWD)

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These were marginal on very hard braking tracks. Now I have evo brembos and can run much lower spec pads with no problems at all. I think the 276mm rotor is adequate, but going larger for me was more about saving cash on consumables.