2G Advice for Best Course of Action for 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

[Evolutionjuan]

Hi All,

I am working on my 1997 GST and looking for advice on best course of action to take for my situation. Read below for context.

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Context: Bought the car from a young guy who for some reason decided to begin to remove the drivers side motor mount and snapped the mounting bolts along with messing up the threads. The car was in running condition in his possession but from he says “started experience issues” and have a video of him attempting to start the vehicle which I can try to post. Bought the car due to the price for a complete car. Recently started working on it and was successful in removing the snapped bolt and discovered the threads were crap. I also noticed the belt needs to be replaced as the teeth are separating from the belt. I do not know the health of the motor. As of now I know the belt and mount that is one the engine itself needs to be replaced. So now I’m thinking it’s best to pull the motor and figure out what type of rebuild/repair is needed.

Before I pull the motor, I was thinking of doing a leak down and compression test. With this information along with the photos and videos, looking for advice from some experienced 2G DSM’ers. I am located in Sacramento, not the socials but let me know if your local and if there are any crews, clubs, meet ups.

I also posted this same post in the regional category, my apologies if double posting isn’t allowed, just looking to get some advice from some experienced folks. Included a video of what the engine sounded like the last time the previous owners tried to start it.

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[pauleyman]

If the motor is healthy why pull it? You can replace that mount and belt with the motor in the car.

 

[jesse12345]

I agree replace the belt and see how it runs. I wouldn't pull the engine yet. I definitely wouldn't try starting the car again until that belt is changed.

 

[Evolutionjuan]

If the motor is healthy why pull it? You can replace that mount and belt with the motor in the car.

Appreciate the opinion, I will assess. Did you get a chance to take a look and listen to the video I uploaded? Any idea of why it’s sounding like that?

I agree replace the belt and see how it runs. I wouldn't pull the engine yet. I definitely wouldn't try starting the car again until that belt is changed.

thank you for your opinion. Get a chance to view the video I uploaded?

 

[spyderdrifter]

My opinion is the engine doesn't sound healthy, but that's purely based on sound. Replace the belt, and see if anything changes. If it's worth it to you, maybe flush the oil and filter too, and inspect the old oil and filter for any debris. I only say if it's worth it to you since you're potentially removing the engine anyway, and this would be a waste of money.

 

[dwb]

thank you for your opinion. Get a chance to view the video I uploaded?

It's possible mechanical timing is off a tooth or two, but I wouldn't put much stock into this video. Get the timing and balance shaft belts replaced (don't forget the pulleys & water pump), do a full tune up - new fluids, new filters, plugs/wires - and see if/how she runs after that. Once you've replaced the timing belt, you could do a compression/leak down test to gauge the overall health.

 

[miliman13]

Just fyi you don’t need a new mount just find a bolt and nut to pass through the bored/ damaged hole

 

[pauleyman]

The running video could be anything. You have to take stuff apart anyway. You can remove valve cover and look for thrown rockers or rockers that don't sit right possibly In dictating a bent valve. I agree with others. Put a belt on it, test it and figure out what's wrong, if anything, with motor in the car. Even if you have to pull the head that just as easy with motor in the car and way less work.

 

[chrysler kid]

The video of it running sounds like an exhaust leak as if the turbo doesn’t have anything bolted to it.

I wouldn’t pull the motor unless you know for sure it’s knocking, and I can’t tell that from his video. I would for sure do a new timing belt kit and see how it runs once you check everything over.

Even if it’s knocking you can atleast try to drive it down the street to make sure the transmission isn’t broken and shifts into all the gears and the clutch isn’t slipping. It would suck to rebuild the motor and the first drive you learn the trans won’t shift into second gear or something stupid like that

 

[Evolutionjuan]

Just fyi you don’t need a new mount just find a bolt and nut to pass through the bored/ damaged hole

I’ll be looking to see which bolts I could use. Hopefully the head of the bolt doesn’t get close to any of the belts or anything else. Thanks for the advice.

 

[trogador2005]

Good on you for not being scared of a not running DSM! That attitude is what you need for these cars haha!

1. Do a heli-coil to fix the threads on the mount M10x1.25
2. Do a full timing belt job. if the belt looks like that, I'm sure the pulleys and tensioner are in equal shape. and if the engine needs to come out and have work done to it or worst case scenario, you'll still need the fresh timing components.
3.Do a compression test, if bad, do a leakdown and see where the issue is.
4. Report back!

 

[pauleyman]

I’ll be looking to see which bolts I could use. Hopefully the head of the bolt doesn’t get close to any of the belts or anything else. Thanks for the advice.

Youre going to have it all apart anyway, I would consider replacing the mount. 10 min extra work. It will save you some future grief.

 

[Evolutionjuan]

Good on you for not being scared of a not running DSM! That attitude is what you need for these cars haha!

1. Do a heli-coil to fix the threads on the mount M10x1.25
2. Do a full timing belt job. if the belt looks like that, I'm sure the pulleys and tensioner are in equal shape. and if the engine needs to come out and have work done to it or worst case scenario, you'll still need the fresh timing components.
3.Do a compression test, if bad, do a leakdown and see where the issue is.
4. Report back!

Thank you, this is 1 of 4 eclipses I have. I have 2 GST’s and the one I’m working on is the roughest one of the fleet. The others 99 GS OZ Rally Edition and a GS Spyder. Definitely knew what I was getting myself into when I acquired these 2g’s.

I am really considering doing the heli coil. I had ordered stud replacements from STM few years back and tried to thread them in, 1 of them caught a few threads and that’s about it. I also took additional photos of the timing components since the previous owner removed the cover and found out the crank pulley was removed (didn’t come with the car) and the belt for the balance shaft was also removed. I’ll post some pics. Really confused as to what the previous owner was after when disassembling but

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[Jacob5se]

On top of what others said about doing timing, plugs etc. I'd definitely change the oil and thoroughly check old one before starting it. It's a quick job that can tell a lot about about the motor. I'd rather run it with cheaper oil and fresh filter than unknown condition oil/filter that can have some unwanted things in it.

 

[pauleyman]

Can't believe I missed that belt with a bunch of teeth missing. I will guess you have bent valves. You can put a belt on it and check but it might be faster to just look under the valve cover and see if anything looks out of place. You can remove cams also and see placement of rockers.

 

[Evolutionjuan]

Can't believe I missed that belt with a bunch of teeth missing. I will guess you have bent valves. You can put a belt on it and check but it might be faster to just look under the valve cover and see if anything looks out of place. You can remove cams also and see placement of rockers.

I will look under the valve cover first thing and post pics back. I had never seen bent valves but in sure I’d be able to tell when something looks way outta place. If all seems well, I will also change the oil out for cheaper oil just to fire it up after and if I proceed to swap out all the timing complements. I am just now getting the parts in. I am also waiting for the weather to get better, forecast shows rain daily. Thanks to all so far really appreciate you guys.

 

[Evolutionjuan]

Alright so I take pictures and a video after removing the valve cover, pictures of the piston heads and valves with a borescope. 2 of the 4 pistons seem be to have oil on them and as I checked some of the valves, I seen some oil on 1 or 2. Upon removing the valve cover I didn’t see anything out of place or concerning. One of the cam gears needs replacing but really needing your guys input on if you see anything else concerning to the point I shouldn’t proceed with going straight into replacing cam gear, timing belt, component kit, coolant, oil, and anything else needed along the way. Let me know what yall think, make sure you select the quality of the video at 1080P. I can maybe upload a higher quality video on YouTube myself.
@pauleyman @Jacob5se @trogador2005 @chrysler kid @miliman13 @dwb @jesse12345 @spyderdrifter

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[chrysler kid]

I can’t reallly tell anything from the video. It’s concerning the belt is that damaged. I can’t advise to do a compression test with the belt that bad. You’re going to need to replace the timing belt and make sure all the timing marks line up and do a compression test. It definitely could have jumped timing, but you’ll need to set the motor to top dead center and check all the timing marks

Again, this is an unknown low dollar project car. If this was a low mileage mint condition chassis you owned for years that just started running badly my advice would be different. Most likely with that timing belt damage one of the valves contacted the piston and the head needs to be pulled and taken to a machine shop. If I was going to put odds on this motor, I’d say you have an 80% probability that you probably do need to pull the motor and have it gone through and rebuilt. But there is still a 20% chance you could slap just a timing belt on it and avoid a 6 month down time and actually test this engine and transmission fully.

Change that belt ASAP. Make sure the timing marks line up. Compression test the motor

 

[Evolutionjuan]

Ok update: parts finally came in including the missing timing bottom cover. I am still sourcing an engine mount to the engine rather than doing a heli coil.

New Concern: I tried spinning the left side balance shaft that has the small belt and I couldn’t turn it by hand. I can turn it with a ratchet and socket. Should I risk running a belt on it or should I simply leave the belt off? If leaving the belt off is an option, do I position the cog to any certain direction?