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Additional Clutch Adjustment Suggestions

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ClassicalBor

15+ Year Contributor
158
1
Feb 9, 2006
Baltimore, Maryland
Heyo,

I've done plenty of research, forum searching, and we've all seen the wonderful Jack's Transmissions clutch pedal adjustment video which is a very helpful video, but I am still having minor problems with my clutch engagement.

Reverse still drops into gear pretty rough, and 25% of the time 1st gear will grind and I have hear those syncros, they arent happy. When I do put it in 1st or 2nd gear at a stand still with the clutch pedal in, my car does creep a bit and I can feel the vibration of my clutch catching just the slightest bit.

I've adjusted my clutch like Jack's Trans video says, if I go another half turn clockwise inward on my master cylinder rod, the clutch pedal is too tight and will start to do the 2G Pedal Pump-up thing we all hate. If I go counter-clockwise a few more turns, the pedal just gets softer, less pressure, and 1st/reverse will still grind a bit.

Any "FINE TUNING" suggestions anyone has for me I should try?
 
My Pedal doesnt go all the way to the wall anyways, at least not as if the wall is preventing it from going any further.

:confused:

Sounds like your pedal adjustment is messed up, but you do have a 2g, and you mentioned jack's video, so you sound like you know what you're talking about.
 
I've adjusted my clutch like Jack's Trans video says, if I go another half turn clockwise inward on my master cylinder rod, the clutch pedal is too tight and will start to do the 2G Pedal Pump-up thing we all hate. If I go counter-clockwise a few more turns, the pedal just gets softer, less pressure, and 1st/reverse will still grind a bit.


Are you checking the slave cylinder or just goin by pedal feel? Once you get to the spot the slave gets solid then back out a half a turn. Slight adjustments go along way.
 
I had the master/slave done about a month ago at a local NAPA auto place. They used their Napa replacement parts for my vehicle, the nearest Mitsubishi dealer didnt have their parts in stock.

I have never done any sort of changes to the pedal assembly itself, or any welding etc, it's completely stock and never been replaced as far as I know.

Last couple days testing I havent lifted the car up and I have been going by feel. But last weekend I jacked the car up and did it by looking at the slave. I have to be honest though... I dont feel like my slave piston ever got completely "stiff" or completely "Soft" I feel like I could push the piston in with my finger only about half way into the boot, is it supposed to go all the way in once its moveable?

Thanks for the help gents
 
sounds like air in the line to me or a loose bleeder, and also check that spongy rubber clutch line for dryrot.
 
If your not hitting the bleeder in your master cylinder it sounds like your going to be needing an oem master and slave. That is if you dont have any leaks what so ever. I got mine from extremepsi. Its either that or your assembly is going out. Press down on the pedal and let it return. After that pull up from the bottom of the pedal. If it moves any, there is free play. Look at going to shep racing for the fix.
 
Press down on the pedal and let it return. After that pull up from the bottom of the pedal. If it moves any, there is free play. Look at going to shep racing for the fix.

Note that if your clutch pedal stop isn't all the way up this will show you nothing, cause you'll just be pulling it up against your pedal stop.

Also I recently forked out $160 for an oem master and slave and it did nothing whatsoever for my problem, which is similar to yours.
 
try ordering a slave extension rod, I was having similar issues after putting in an exedy stage 2 clutch, also had grinding issues under acceleration, I ordered a rod extension off ebay for $5, its 1/4" longer than oem, and I popped the old one out, put new one in and it solved all issues, worth a try for $5 I think...
 
try ordering a slave extension rod, I was having similar issues after putting in an exedy stage 2 clutch, also had grinding issues under acceleration, I ordered a rod extension off ebay for $5, its 1/4" longer than oem, and I popped the old one out, put new one in and it solved all issues, worth a try for $5 I think...

Do not do this. It is just a bandaid and will wear out your TOB very quickly.


You need to tell us if you have a 1g or a 2g. Assuming your profile says you have a 98 please confirm you are talking about the same car.
 
Yes it is a 2G 1998 GST,

I am hitting the bleeder valve in my master cylinder obviously because its not pumping up, if i tighten the rod clockwise anymore than it is right now, it will close off the valve and it will slowly pump up over the course of driving, probably 15-20 minutes before i really feel it.

I do believe that I could back my upper stop switch (cruise control) up further, I'll have to get out there and check, it will eventually thread backwards far enough that the pedal will NOT touch, at that point ive gone too far, correct?
 
okay ill do that. see whats up with it, ### i dont think i threaded it back far enough to begin with.

I threaded back the upper stop as far as it seems like it can go, the pedal is touching it but touching it less than before. Got kind of hard to turn backwards with the stupid wiring harness on it.

But then it got too dark to do the rest of the adjustment under the car with the slave. Will have to wait til tomorrow. Pedal is softer at this point, but reverse is still grinding.. 1st gear not so much.
 
i just want to make my pedal a little higher my engage point is at the floor how do i change this? i kno a little but am by far a licensed mechainc backyard boy,?? any help i just want it to be easier to drive LOL, to start i have to be in the floor, i looked in VFAQ cant find what im looking for,
 
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