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Accidently bought a 2g head, have a 1g block.

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Wagamos

Probationary Member
11
0
Dec 23, 2010
Hudsonville, Michigan
Ok I was told it was a 1g head and had the guy ship it to me. I'm new to dsm's and didnt catch the difference in port sizes until the guy at the shop called me and was like, hey the ports are way different on this new head. Now looking at the pics i can clearly see that this must be a 2g head.:banghead:

This is my winter car, im not here to figure out what will give me better performance, I just need to know what all swaps over from 1g to 2g if anything. I have a 1g head with bent valves. Its a 6 bolt turbo 1g head. The new head came with just valves and springs, no cams or rockers. Do the rockers swap over or what? Also curious if cams and everything will bolt in with no problem. I already know about the head bolt difference (thought this was a 7 bolt head) and was gonna have the holes enlarged to accomodate the larger 12 mm bolts.

Thanks guys. I wish i had looked at port size but just happy with the price and inexperienced with the differences that I took the guy at his word. I know im an idiot for this but im hoping i can make this work. Really dont wanna be spending $$$ to get a winter beater back on the road if I dont have to.
 
The thermostat housings and water pipes are different on the two heads but not a big deal to swap out. I even made an adapter plate for my 1g head to put my 2g thermo housing and water pipe on.
 
I just install a 2g block and head with a 1g Water Pipe, with just BOLT ON.

So, there is no modifications to swap the 1g Water Pipe.

Which thermostat housing did you use? 1G?
That will work if your putting a 1g Tstat on a 2g head but if you try to go the other way 1g head 2g Tstat It has a couple extra bolts on the 2g Tstat.
 
Ok, do I need to do some porting of the intake to gasket match or screw it? Do you guys know if the rockers switch over?

So i should be able to reuse my cam sensor and just get a different thermostat housing and cooling pipe? What about valve cover and gasket? Just curious since i ordered a 1g top end set.
 
Ok, do I need to do some porting of the intake to gasket match or screw it? Do you guys know if the rockers switch over?

So i should be able to reuse my cam sensor and just get a different thermostat housing and cooling pipe? What about valve cover and gasket? Just curious since i ordered a 1g top end set.

No. You do not need a different thermostat Housing, Nor a cooling pipe.

You are using a 1g Staff, so you don't need anything.

Just swap everything from the 1g to the 2g head.
 
All your 1g stuff should bolt right on. I would consider getting a 2g intake because of the port size difference. I wouldn't port match the 2g head to a 1g intake or just slap a 1g intake on.
 
Ok, can do that, What should i do about the large difference in intake port size? I still just have my 1g intake manifold. I would assume that would cause some major turbulence and some possible problems?

Thanks for your help btw.

EDIT, musta just missed your post. What kinda work is involved with using the 2g intake?

I wouldnt mind power, but im not building this engine up for power. The purpose of this was to just get the car back on the road and outta the garage. I have other problems that I need to fix on the car besides the head, but that would be a different thread.
 
6 bolt block + unported 2g head = combo with great potential (when you plan to do more upgrades in the future)

be sure to do the following before putting the head to the block:

1) check the head surface for flatness and warpage (shave if necessary, but after doing steps 2 and 3)
2) machine the head to use 12mm head bolts
3) mod the oil port of the head for better oil flow

after that, everything from your 1g head can be carried over to the 2g head. be sure to use the 2g intake manifold and the 1g throttle body. you'll need to port the plenum of the 2g intake manifold to match the 1g throttle body's stock 60mm port. after that, it's all a matter of just reassembling everything. and oh, be sure to retorque the head studs after the engine's 1st warm up.



hope this sums up everything,
ochi ;)
 
All your 1g stuff should bolt right on. I would consider getting a 2g intake because of the port size difference. I wouldn't port match the 2g head to a 1g intake or just slap a 1g intake on.
A 2G intake manifold would be mandatory unless drastic head porting is being done.

I installed a 1G intake manifold on a 2G head used on a non-turbo 4G63 once, and it is still running great to this day....but in that case the engine is always drawing vacuum so the irregularity in the manifold flanges goes unnoticed. I would not recommend doing this on a forced-induction application.
 
Ok so I need to locate a 2g intake manifold then. Im assuming then that fuel rail will still fit, will I need to do anything to make the coil pack fit? Also im hoping that all this will require no tuning? Would like to just get her back on the road. Not familiar with factory turbocharged cars, all my experience is with aftermarket systems.
 
I built my motor for 1G block with 2G head.

1.) Yes the head stud holes need to be drilled out. Make sure there is enough room for oil to pass
2.) Port the oil galley on the head
3.) a 1G thermo housing will bolt right up without any issues. I did it on mine.
4.) Get yourself an Evo 3 intake manifold
5.) do NOT port the intake ports. Maybe have the casting marks smoothed out at the very most but don't port the thing

A 2G intake manifold would be mandatory unless drastic head porting is being done.

An Evo III intake manifold will work as well, and is less bulky. That's what I have and am happy with it.
 
Last edited:
I'm sure many dsm'rs like myself have used 2g intake manifold lying around that we would practically give away. You could check the classifieds or even give dsmgraveyard or SIM (they are in Kalamazoo) a call since they are both located in Michigan. They may have one taken off a customers car laying around.
 
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