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ABS Delete

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cficare68

15+ Year Contributor
87
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Aug 29, 2010
Boise, Idaho
So I have done plenty of research on what is needed to complete this and have found a few donor cars at a locate junkyard so I am pretty sure that I am not going to have an issue getting the parts of of it. However one question that I have though its what do you need to have the Non - Abs brakes lines. Why can't you use a 2nd brake proportion valve and tie it into where the ABS Brake Porpotion valve is located as a bypass. If anyone could answer this I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advanced

Alan
 
Its mostly of a preference. I personally don't like ABS. Plus it takes up a lot of space in the engine bay. Mine also doesn't work right anyways so I figure if I gotta spend money to fix it. I am gonna fix it to the way I perfer it.
 
Call STM i think they just finished there abs delete kit for the 1g's.Its not on there site yet but i seen it on facebook.
 
The original lines for the front brakes and the master cylinder cannot be re-used. The lines from the master feed ABS unit, then the unit feeds back to the proportion valve for the front lines and the master cylinder.

I just did it this morning. Get the non ABS proportion valve, and both front brake system hard-lines AND the lines from the master cylinder to the proportion valve. Lines for the rear brakes are good no matter the system.

Then, disconnect all lines and yank out the lines you are replacing and the ABS unit. I went the extra step and replaced the spindles/hub for the fronts to red myself of the ABS ring and sensor mount. Then cut the sensor out.

Takes about 1 hour to remove and replace the ABS with non-ABS.
 
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The original lines for the front brakes and the master cylinder cannot be re-used. The lines from the master feed ABS unit, then the unit feeds back to the proportion valve for the front lines and the master cylinder.

I just did it this morning. Get the non ABS proportion valve, and both front brake system hard-lines AND the lines from the master cylinder to the proportion valve. Lines for the rear brakes are good no matter the system.

Then, disconnect all lines and yank out the lines you are replacing and the ABS unit. I went the extra step and replaced the spindles/hub for the fronts to red myself of the ABS ring and sensor mount. Then cut the sensor out.

Takes about 1 hour to remove and replace the ABS with non-ABS.

+1 This is the way to do it. I did it on my 1G and was really happy with the result...cleaned up the engine bay, lost some weight and got rid of a system that didn't really work anyways.
 
Awsome thanks guys that is a huge help. Very glad to hear that I can leave the rear lines alone. That was my biggest concern for the entire swap.
 
IMO get the prop valve and then just replace the two front lines with new green brake lines. They are infinite times easier to install and bend.

Also you can also remove the abs control unit, fuse box, trigger wheels on the hubs and sensors.
 
IMO get the prop valve and then just replace the two front lines with new green brake lines. They are infinite times easier to install and bend.

Also you can also remove the abs control unit, fuse box, trigger wheels on the hubs and sensors.


Right now I have a brake prop valve that a friend bought and didn't use for is honda civic. I'm still using the stock brake lines and the brakes seem to be working fine.
 
IMO get the prop valve and then just replace the two front lines with new green brake lines. They are infinite times easier to install and bend.

Also you can also remove the abs control unit, fuse box, trigger wheels on the hubs and sensors.
I think I can figure the wiring part out and trace the wires to the systems, however are there pics or writeups? Will my ABS light come on or trigger any issue I will not be able to overcome through DSMlink?
 
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