2G About to do engine repairs/maintenance. Please check over parts list.

[CtrlAltDestroy]

I have a 99 GST Spyder, automatic with 170k miles. I recently replaced the turbo (with tons of play) with another stock turbo with virtually no shaft play. I replaced the O2 sensor, too. A few weeks after that my head gasket finally gave out.

So I want to replace the head gasket and do the high mile engine service since the last one was done at 80k miles. Timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioner, head studs, valve cover gasket and anything else that I'm forgetting. Here's the list of parts that I've put together. Please look them over to see if I'm missing anything or if I should replace any parts with a different one.

Also, what's the best manual/guide for timing the engine? I've never timed an engine and doing my first one on an interference engine isn't ideal.


http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17034&cat=0&page=1

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22306&cat=0&page=1
(With OEM timing and balance shaft belts)

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=18475&cat=0&page=1
(for everything but the head gasket)

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17780&cat=0&page=1

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=23572&cat=1767&page=1

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20110&cat=1845&page=1
(Just because)

http://www.jayracing.com/timing-belt-tools-c-17_229/jay-racing-timing-belt-tools-kit-p-214.html

Anything to add or change? What else should I do since I'll have half of the engine apart and belts out of the way?

Thanks.

 

[Vestic]

Might as well eliminate the balance shaft while you've got everything torn down for reliabilities sake.

You can find plenty of links for the factory service manual - if you're looking for something else for a how to on timing http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html is always a solid choice.

 

[CtrlAltDestroy]

Might as well eliminate the balance shaft while you've got everything torn down for reliabilities sake.

You can find plenty of links for the factory service manual - if you're looking for something else for a how to on timing http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html is always a solid choice.

Any particular BSE kit would be recommend? How hard is it to do with the engine in the car?

Also, still, how does that part list look? I'll end up ordering everything by the middle of next week if I don't get any sayings to the contrary.

 

[Vestic]

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17650

Something like that or similar, STM, FFWD, RRE - Pick a company you like and any of them are probably up to the task.


Edit - And yes, beyond that your list looks like a pretty good start. I imagine like all projects once you get in there you'll break something or find something else in need of replacing but your list so far looks like a great starting point.

 

[Operate]

Extreme Psi has a great bse kit, I would get the oem spacer that eliminates the balance shaft pulley. That is a great list, I would only suggest to verify that the cylinder head AND block are not warped and within specification. I would not even leave it open to chance to just throw it back together and it is a very easy inspection.

Also disassemble the cylinder head and make sure the valves are sealing correctly and not leaking. There are valve stem seals that can become a problem at that mileage and it would be a shame not to replace them with some $14 Viton seals.

A machine shop can perform these inspections if you do not feel comfortable doing it.

And if the mileage is actually 170k I would seriously consider and actual engine overhaul.

You are pretty much half way there, for all you know you could just need a resurfaced head, valves lapped, and a crankshaft polished, followed by a cylinder hone. Some new rod and main bearings and piston rings. all of which would need to be the appropriate size as well.

I know it is a bit more expensive but man! What a waste not to! I would replace all the small coolant hoses as well.

Just my opinion.

 

[mercaholik]

^^^ I agree with the above post as well. I'm rebuilding my jdm (unknown mileage) 6 bolt and that's where I'm at, I'm going 2g piston 1g rod .20 over with new rings and bearings. It's necessary to have everything measured.

 

[93tsi6bolt]

I would read this before you decide on removing your bs. http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts . I have always removed them but my next build I might keep them. It's worth looking at.

 

[Operate]

I would read this before you decide on removing your bs. http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts . I have always removed them but my next build I might keep them. It's worth looking at.

That is very good information, anyone that daily's a dsm should really consider keeping them. On my first 1g back in 2002 I had 2g pistons on 1g rods machined and replaced bearings gaskets etc... essentially overhauled the engine, I kept my balance shafts and replaced the belts with oem parts. My other friends with dsms would ride in my car and freak out at how smooth it ran and how different it was than theirs, keep in mind I also had an act 2600 with the oem flywheel machined, while they all had balance shafts eliminated, and the lightest flywheels possible. I have seen a balance shaft belt torn and almost to the point it was caught in the timing belt itself, but this was completely due to the fact this vehicle was not maintained at all so there is a lot truth to what jacks transmission is saying that I have actually experienced myself. And back then I don't think there was a Kevlar balance shaft belt so that is a great option.

 

[Dark_Horse]

Any particular BSE kit would be recommend? How hard is it to do with the engine in the car?

If you decide to eliminate the balance shafts, my advice is to remove your engine entirely to install the BSEK. I did it with the engine still installed and it was a huge PITA! Such tight clearance to get the balance shafts out, and you're at awkward angles tapping the front bearings out and new ones in. In my opinion, it took me 2 or 3x longer to do the job with the engine still installed than if I'd pulled it.

Not to mention, if you're already replacing the head gasket, you'll have everything besides the block removed anyway so why not? Totally agree that you should also replace all coolant hoses including the ones that go to the heater core.

 

[c2ypt1c]

I did it with the engine still installed and it was a huge PITA!

That's because you did it the hard way. The other option is to leave the front shaft in and only replace the rear with a stubby. You don't have to worry about bearings, oil pressure, etc...took me all of 20min.

 

[mercaholik]

But I do think leaving only the front balance shaft would give an odd vibration. I know plenty of people have done it, but they might be sacrificing a smoother running street motor, for 11 horsepower. You do have the issue of it breaking but I like to replace my timing stuff before out needs to.