a lot of problems

[gst96spyderman]

Where to start? First off, the Alternator is bad on my car. $130 with a $70 core charge. Now, I have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from an oil return line. I'm not sure. Not that mechanically inclined. Also the car was smoking A LOT. As soon as I noticed this I turned car off and Checked oil. There was none. So I get some more oil in order to get back to my place. The whole time the car was steady smoking at stop lights and I'm not sure, but seemed to be leaking a considerable amount of oil from somwhere. Couldn't get out to see in the Pensacola stop and go traffic. I just moved here and am very short on money. I guess I'm looking for a diagnosis from one of you guys given the crappy info I have given. More details to come next week, since I now have no access to the internet except once a week and no vehicle. If anyone in the Pensacola area knows of a good DSM mechanic, drop a line and number. I'm a new man in a new city with a fairly new car and very new problem with the car. Help a man out if you can.

Also, while the car was smoking, the oil pressure was not high. I did also check the engine coolant level, and there was little to no coolant in there. Could this be the problem. Or part of it? I spoke to someone that has more knowledge on vehicles than myself and he said several things. From the engine needs rebuilding to the turbo needs rebuilding. The turbo will not spool up past about half way. I'm basing this on what comes from the factory gauge as well as the fact that there is the feeling of NO BOOST. WTF is going on with my baby? Any help is great help. Hoping the answer is not $2000. Thanks fellas (and any females)

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

What the hell do you use a breaker bar for?

I mean, unless you got to get down and dirty with some rusty bolts, it’s not necessary.

Also, your drain plug is only a 17mm, and for this job it would be nice to have 1/4" drives as well, but not a must. You can just about take apart this entire car with a 10, 12, 14 and 17mm.

Not sure how many times you have done this, but if this guy is looking to just try and get his car running with limited resources, not all of that will be necessary.

OP: If you still want some help, or an inquiry about the T-25 let me know. Don’t waste your money when you are in your particular situation. Good luck, let us know.

Well, my drain plug is a 14mm. It's aftermarket from oreilly's with a magnet on it. So, his could be any size under the moon if it's ever been replaced. But I agree with spydermanX98X about needing a 19mm. Especially for doing this turbo swap. The O2 housing to Downpipe nuts are a 19mm and you WILL have to take those off to get the turbo out of there.

Also, a cheap place to buy tools would be Harbor Freight. You can get some decent tools for a cheap price tag. You can even buy online at Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Look at starting out by getting a 3/8" and 1/2" drive metric socket sets. A lot of my tools are craftsman tools. I've used them for years and really have grown to like the feel and fitment of them. If you go with craftsman look into getting one of their premade kits that fall into your price range. They will generally include everything you will need.

Kind of like this:

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My main pet peeve is that I need a new toolbox. I carry all of my hand tools in a toolbag and throw it in the back of my car. That way I always have what I need, when I need it. The only problem is since it's a bag I have to dig through it to get to any of my tools.

I think it's time for something like this:

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[mikelv]

That's good and all guys, great write up. But have you read anything this kid has said?

This guy just moved to a new city, has barely any money for this, and someone is looking to rob him on a turbo job. I'm talking about something that he could do himself for under a 100 bucks.

I was offering advice for him getting a used T-25 because I had one for him dirt cheap (hell I'll give it to him for free) with about 35K on it. I've been in his position; inexperienced, and no one gives a shit.

If he just trades out the turbo, all he'll need is a cheap set of sockets and wrenches he could even get at Wal Mart for less than 20 bucks. Maybe a screw driver for the intake. That and a couple new gaskets, and be just fine until he can afford more, and get on his feet in a new place. Hell, he would even have to drain the oil! Just clean up the mess when you're done and top off the coolant and oil.
I'm pretty sure this guy doesn't have an aftermarket drain plug considering the situation. Hell, even if he did, it doesn’t matter he'll get a cheap wrench set that'll have both sizes.

If I can change an alternator on a DSM at 1am in the morning of the side of a highway during an ice storm with nothing more than a Gerber, 12mm wrench and a cell phone light, I'm sure we can get him a cheap replacement until he gets on his feet.

I know, understand and agree with everything you're both saying. Here is a great link to eliminate any more conversation about 16G swaps. I know and understand the proper way to do all these installations professionally, but sometimes man, with DSM's it just isn't so.

16G install in a 2G

Just this guy really can't afford this right now, so I'm sure he'd be willing to get out of this bind as cheap as possible.

Man what is with the Forums today? Nobody is getting what I'm trying to say.

 

[newtypedsm]

If I can change an alternator on a DSM at 1am in the morning of the side of a highway during an ice storm with nothing more than a Gerber, 12mm wrench and a cell phone light, I'm sure we can get him a cheap replacement until he gets on his feet.

...definitely a dsm owner

spyderman, too bad you dont live an hour closer to me. i would help you out with all this. i've done turbo installs about 4 times now. my engine bay has nothing but a bottom end and a tranny in it right now due to a broken timing belt... which brings me to agree with the others, dont buy cheap stuff off ebay. the timing belt was from there and it snapped about 2 months after installation. (it came with the component kit that had NSK bearings in the idlers and tensioners, i figured the belt would be good quality too).

 

[mikelv]

...definitely a dsm owner

Oh man, that sucks. I've never bought anything off Ebay man. Just my opinion. Certain things like water pumps, oil pumps, timing components, you just can do it.

But a T-25 for a T-25 too easy.

 

[newtypedsm]

well, i knew most high quality bearings are made in japan and the description said they were japan made, so i made a gamble. i never had good luck with slots...

if you're strapped for cash man, do the cheapest thing possible, a replacement t25 with less than 70K miles for cheap or even free...... that's a no brainer. i know you want the 16g, but as sooon as you get it, you'll want to up the boost, then you'll need a new fuel pump, then you have problems with fuel cut and need bigger injectors and a better fuel management system, and so on and so forth.... do the upgrades when you have steady income at least and can afford to buy the parts you'll need and accumulate them until you have the whole puzzle, instead of piecing your only means of transportation together

 

[spydermanX98X]

yes you're right, I knew I used a 19 but I couldn't remember where so I assumed drain plug, but removing the turbo oil line from the filter location is a 22, and getting the oxygen sensor out assuming you're replacing it is as well.

What the hell do I use a breaker bar for?

Breaking off rusty bolts. I dare you to find an 11 year old car without some seized bolts, and if you can't find one I'll let you come over and try to take somebolts off mine with a 3/8 ratchet.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Alright guys. Thank everyone for all the feedback on what and how to do it. As of right now I 'm looking for a replacement turbo. I've received funding for the turbo of my choice as long as its not a garret turbo or something like that. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with a 16g. So that is no longer an issue. My newest issue is finding a place that'll sell it to me on the spot over the internet. I've tried to contact the seller on this site about the small 16g, and he is not responding. I'm trying to get this part asap so I can be back driving at the end of this week. I'm going to try and overnight the part. Just need to locate a place that sells a used turbo onver the web. Any suggestions?

 

[gst96spyderman]

Alright, I've found a 16g @ cxracing.com: Turbocharger Anyone bought from this site? The only flaw I've seen is that there is no warranty with this priduct. I'm a little iffy on going through with the purchase because of that. But If the turbo is new, then why the hell not?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

That's the "Ebay" 16g everyone is always dissing... I would rather buy a blown genuine MHI 16g than bolt that up to my car.

What does your budget look like now that you have the funding for a turbo?

 

[gst96spyderman]

350 or cheaper

 

[george1904]

350 or cheaper

hey man well first of all dont buy a ebay one the previous owner i bought the car had a big 16g from ebay and iit has a lot of shaft play. and for 350 i would say look for one on craigs list or if you can get like another $170 forced perfomance has a sale on an EvoIII 16G for $524 including shipping i just ordered mine today and its a real MHI turbo not a knock off

 

[98GST6BOLT]

i can prob get you a 16g for like 300, almost new from a good friend of mine. let me know if your interested

 

[Bluefire16]

If you just want your car to run again dude look for a t25....thats all thats needed, take the old one out new one in...

Here a guy is selling his for 60 plus shipping t25

 

[gst96spyderman]

Well, fellas. I went with the EVOIII Big 16G from Extremepsi.com for 585. I'm going to keep it at stock boost untill I can afford to do all the proper upgrades. I'm not going to try and up the boost and cause more problems for my 13 year old bone stock dsm.

I was also directed to goto forcedperformance.com, but when I went there the price went up to around 600.

I really didn't want to get another t-25, because I want to eventually have about 300-350 hp. Thats plenty for a fwd. And this is like a year or so down the road before I can ante up the cash for this project.

to bluefire, mikelv, projectgs and the rest of you motorheads. I'll keep you posted on status of car

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Good call on getting a Genuine MHI turbo. The E316G is a great turbo and will take you to your goal. Good Luck and keep us up to date. Take some pics along the way too. Always fun to see someone else's build/fixes.

 

[Bluefire16]

Please tell me you put it in yourself though.....

 

[gst96spyderman]

Turbo is installed. No. Didn't do it myself... Let me catch hell. I don't care. EVO IIIBig 16G spools up much much quicker than the pos t-25 still @ stock boost. no desire to change it till I get the setup right.

Any comment on first upgrades? need some help on that path. Sorry to disappoint on not being a true dsmer and getting the work done professionally. Need was greater the want

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Either a fuel pump rewire on the stock pump or replace the pump with a Walbro 190 or 255 and rewire it. Either way you should rewire the fuel pump.
K&N FIPK
1g BOV
MBC
Exhaust
Larger Injectors and a way to compensate for them. <650's = SAFC or Chip >650's = Chip or DSMlink
Either replace your Upper IC pipe because the stock one sucks or get a FMIC kit.

There's much more but you'll probably also need a clutch after some of these mods are done.

 

[Bluefire16]

^^ agreed with everything, but get a pocket logger first before anything. (I wish i did) Then do the normal upgrades and just follow the path guide.

 

[gst96spyderman]

I now have about 150 miles under the new turbo and assume the break in period is complete. I've now started playing with the turbo. I notice that it spools up much quicker and is harder to hear the the T-25. Not a biggie to me. Just kind of expecting it to be a little louder. Any ways, there is only two problems I have since the install.

First is that the AC is no longer working as well as it did before. Screw it. Might just need a freon recharge. Not that concerned.

Second is that I have very little oil pressure when not boosting. Not a clue what this could be. I check my oil regularly, and I haven't burnt a drop of oil since getting the car back a couple of weeks ago now. When the turbo is engaged, the oil pressure builds up to normal levels, but once at a stop light or something, the pressure drops back down.

Any Ideas? I guess I should look this up. But why not hit two birds with one stone. Thanks fellas. Oh yeah. Slaughtered a modded GS-R today leaving the house. He pulls up to the light dry reving his engine, and I have no badges on my car. So the light changes green and he spins out in 1st. So I easily catch him starting out in second. 3rd gear pull, he was about 3 car legnths behind @ 90-95. LOVE THIS NEW TURBO!!!!!

 

[Bluefire16]

Glad your having fun, take a picture of you oil pressure gauge so we can see where the oil is sitting. I found that the oil pressure gauge is very faulty. Mine was at the first line at the H, so it was saying i had high oil pressure but still under "normal driving." However, this scared me seeing it this high, ### normally it should sit in the middle, so i ordered a new gauge and i sit at 65 on the highway cruising 75mph. So needless to say the stock gauge is rubbish. The ac, is completely random and i dont have a clue, just pull it out and save 40 pounds.

 

[gst96spyderman]

I have no camera right now. I'll have one ina month. Pics will be taken and shown as soon as possible. I'm 99% sure it's like you said about the gauge. Just a peice of crap. I guess guages will be the first buy I get. Boost and oil. I'll have some fun fabricating those into the car somewhere. I love doing thins like that.

Agree on the ac. I'm going to see if a freon boost will help, and if not, its coming out.

I now have a new problem. The steering wheel squeels everytime I turn the wheel. So I was thinking that it was just a little low on power steering fluid. I goto autozone and replace. Nope. Still squeeking. The guy there told me to make sure the belt was on tight. No clue on how to check or fix that. Could it possibly be the power steering pump? I don't really care about power steering. I would rather that damn thing just stop working as long as it doesn't effect the car except for the ease of turning the wheel at a dead stop. I've drivin cars w/o power steering and is no a difference to me unless stopped.

Anyways, pics will be here in about a month. Thanks again to you guys and escecially rbwtrans. The guy who intalled my turbo. Love his setup by the way. One of the best looking 1g DSM's I've ever seen