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a lot of problems

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gst96spyderman

15+ Year Contributor
829
0
Oct 22, 2008
H, North Carolina
Where to start? First off, the Alternator is bad on my car. $130 with a $70 core charge. Now, I have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from an oil return line. I'm not sure. Not that mechanically inclined. Also the car was smoking A LOT. As soon as I noticed this I turned car off and Checked oil. There was none. So I get some more oil in order to get back to my place. The whole time the car was steady smoking at stop lights and I'm not sure, but seemed to be leaking a considerable amount of oil from somwhere. Couldn't get out to see in the Pensacola stop and go traffic. I just moved here and am very short on money. I guess I'm looking for a diagnosis from one of you guys given the crappy info I have given. More details to come next week, since I now have no access to the internet except once a week and no vehicle. If anyone in the Pensacola area knows of a good DSM mechanic, drop a line and number. I'm a new man in a new city with a fairly new car and very new problem with the car. Help a man out if you can.

Also, while the car was smoking, the oil pressure was not high. I did also check the engine coolant level, and there was little to no coolant in there. Could this be the problem. Or part of it? I spoke to someone that has more knowledge on vehicles than myself and he said several things. From the engine needs rebuilding to the turbo needs rebuilding. The turbo will not spool up past about half way. I'm basing this on what comes from the factory gauge as well as the fact that there is the feeling of NO BOOST. WTF is going on with my baby? Any help is great help. Hoping the answer is not $2000. Thanks fellas (and any females) :dsm:
 
Almost sounds like a blown turbo. Hard to say over the web... Sounds like you need to find a GOOD mechanic.
 
+1 on the blown turbo - it would cause the massive smoke. You have to pull it out to test it though. However, with how many people that upgrade turbos you can probably pick up a used stocker for pretty cheap. Pull the turbo - the second you look at it you'll know if it's blown.
 
Sounds like the turbo, fix that leak though. I got a extra t25 that is in great shape and came off my car with only 68k on it....ill ship it to ya for 100 bucks. Check to see if the turbo has a lot of play, pull off the intake and try to feel the shaft moving. (DO NOT force it to move, it should move easily, most people create shaft play because they force it)
 
Check the exhuast for oil. I snapped the shaft on one of my old turbos and it dumped loads of oil into my exhaust. If there is oil in there it's most definitely your turbo.
 
Blown turbo. I have it at a shop here in Pensacola. The guy is recomending a EVO III 16g replacement as opposed to a T25 replacement. Not particularly for increasing HP, but for longevity and security. I found a 16g with fmic for about $350 on EBAY. Any suggestions on this as well as ebay? The mechanic I spoke with is very knowledgeable on DSM's. The guy owns like 9 1g DSMs. We spoke DSM's for about two hours. I'm no mechanic, but I know the extreme DSM basics, and this guy was dead on. Any reason not to go with what I've been recomended by the mechanic?

Oh yeah, The alternator is shot. $300 replaced via autozone.

Also the price quote for labor is $400 on the turbo and $108 for the alternator. Sounds reasonable. Just looking to see if I'm getting screwed on the labor on the turbo. Thanks

:dsm:
 
First off install them youself. I had no clue about these cars so i had a friend kind of walk me thru it, he just stood by to tell me if was doing something wrong and what not. It is really easy to put in a turbo, took me 2 hours only. I would sell you mine but i already did to someone else. I would recommend a small 16g if anything. It is a nice turbo and can keep the boost down and still be fun. It spools faster and can put up bigger numbers. I wouldn't go ebay on the turbo personally, but there is a used small 16g for sale in the classifieds right now for only $220! If i had the money i would buy it.
 
removing the turbo is pretty easy yuo could do it yourself. it will take you awhile the 1st time but after that it will be easy. and you will learn a bit about your car and save $400
 
I honestly wish I could do it myself. I just am not able to do so. I don't have the tools or resources to do so. I don't even have a floor jack. Just the stock jack. I really don't want to have to spen$400 of money that isn't even my own. I am in a new city and have next to no money to be spending on labor. I'm having to borrow money from my parents, because I start working tomorrow and am not exactly making 6 figures a year. Hopefully I get a big cut of that stimulus check so I can get this resolved asap. Thanks a lot on all the help. I'm going to try and get the small 16g. Also, I kinda am partial to having a new part as opposed to a used part. just for the sake of resale value.
 
I would not buy an EBAY 16g. They have been known to fail time and time again. The FMIC it comes with would probably be fine but the turbo is made in china and is a knock off of the real thing. I would go to SBR, Extremepsi, MAPerformance, STM, and other site vendors and price out a new E316g.

I would prefer you to do the work yourself and learn about your car. But, those prices he's given you are actually pretty reasonable for a professional shop to do the work. I would find yourself either a used Genuine MHI 16g or a new Genuine MHI 16g.

Also for a 2g you will need an installation kit for any 14b or 16g variant to fit your car the right way.
 
Man, I honestly would love to do this work myself for the simple fact I would learn so much. This is my dream car and had the option to purchase a newer model Eclipse but this is the car I wanted. Just am not in a position to do the work. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the small 16G turbo.

As far as the installation kit, where can I find one and how much do they cost?
 
Well buddy i had the same symptoms and it was a blown turbo, smoke was rediculous amounts and it happen out of nowhere but then again my turbo had been going dead for a while. Swapping a turbo is butter buy yourself a tool kit for like 20 bucks and do it yourself. I believe its 14mm bolts from the headers to turbo and the lines are all easy to come. TRUST do it yourself. I swapped mine without a jack car was on all 4 wheels. Even using your stock jack will be easy. It's an easy job.
 
I agree. With the money you save doing it yourself, get yourself some tools. Jacking the driver side of the car with the factory jack should do fine for taking the 3 connections loose and a couple bolts from the alternator and swapping it out. My first investment was a factory shop manual that I paid $10 for which can be downloaded for free if I'm not mistaken from a thread in this site. As far as the install kit I've seen new kits go for 150 which I think is ridiculous but you should be able to get pick one up for less than 100 if you look around. You could always just get another t-25 since you're bone stock and don't have much money. Read and learn and from the site and maybe get a boost gauge and then a bost controller first before upgrading the turbo. Just a thought.
 
Here is what you are going to need install kit, i personally just bought the jpipe and return line and reused my old lines, but i recommend you just get the kit, it will be a lot easier for you. So with this kit and turbo you are looking at only 220+160= 380. Now you will need 4 quarts oil, and well i would recommend a new jack and stands. So your going to be just over $450. Which isn't bad at all considering they wanted 400 alone for the install of the turbo plus you would need to get a turbo. This is an tech article on how to install a 14b (works the same with the 16g) with a homebrew install kit (like mine). Now you wont have to follow all of it but it will help you. Install
Ok so now you have all your stuff you might as well get some tools, get a decent sized tool kit, trust me you are going to need this more than ever owning a dsm. Its an investment, dont worry you will get your moneys worth. Hope this all helps.
 
Oh and read up on this article, it is all about turbos and what not so you can become familiar with them...the turbos
I hope all of this helps, best of luck. If you have questions shoot me a PM and i will try and help you out the best i can.
 
sounds like a blown turbo. a seal on my turbine side went out and i had the same problem.
Burned through a quart of oil in about 30 minutes of driving, that thing was leaking like a mother, left everyone in a cloud of smoke.
 
Message - DSM Classifieds

"There is little to no shaftplay"

I'm a little weary on purchasing a used turbo that has any shaft play. Did a little research on this guy selling, and he was running a pretty big setup. Like 350+hp. He did have all the parts needed to run @ this HP safely. Should this be a major concern?

I'm really sorry to hear about your luck. I feel you, I've been there before in a new place, and not knowing anything or anyone to help out. Never mind a place to work on the car. If you were closer, I'd say bring it to the house and we'll get it done.

Myself, and some other guys on here will help you out. You can do a turbo in your driveway with a scissor jack and a cheap socket set/ wrench set. Hell man, been there done that a number of times.

Let me pull up some links to get you started and we'll get it done, no worries. :thumb:
 
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Shaft play is normal, it happens to all turbos, i bought a 14b with little shaft play and it has hardly even moved at all. Its one of the things you have to accept if you want to buy a used turbos, just makes sure its not grinding or hitting the walls when it spins. But in the end, just because he had a big setup does not mean its bad for the turbo, there are guys that run more than that and turbos are fine. I think you will be ok if you go with it.
 
Also, a friend of mine just put a 16G on.

I can get you his stock T-25 dirt cheap for you. All you will need is a new turbo gasket, copper crush washers, and an oil gasket. It'll probably be 75-100 bucks for the whole job. No promises but I'll check for you. Hell you can probably do that with a 10mm socket, a couple wrenches, and enough jack to drain oil. (drain pan)

I'll see what he wants for it and let you know. Don't spend an ass load of money on this if you're just getting to a new place and trying to get on your feet. We'll work something out here man. :thumb:
 
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breaker bar, torgue wrench, 3/8 ratchet with multiple extensions, 14,12,10, and 22mm prob both in sockets and combination wrenches as well as a 19 for the drain plug and something to drain coolant and oil into. jack and jackstands are a must. probably some pb blaster and a propane torch to help bolts off or liquid wrench etc. I'm in the process of the job right now and thats about the list of tools that the t-25 to 16g switch involves.
 
breaker bar, torgue wrench, 3/8 ratchet with multiple extensions, 14,12,10, and 22mm prob both in sockets and combination wrenches as well as a 19 for the drain plug and something to drain coolant and oil into. jack and jackstands are a must. probably some pb blaster and a propane torch to help bolts off or liquid wrench etc. I'm in the process of the job right now and thats about the list of tools that the t-25 to 16g switch involves.



What the hell do you use a breaker bar for?

I mean, unless you got to get down and dirty with some rusty bolts, it’s not necessary.

Also, your drain plug is only a 17mm, and for this job it would be nice to have 1/4" drives as well, but not a must. You can just about take apart this entire car with a 10, 12, 14 and 17mm.

Not sure how many times you have done this, but if this guy is looking to just try and get his car running with limited resources, not all of that will be necessary.

OP: If you still want some help, or an inquiry about the T-25 let me know. Don’t waste your money when you are in your particular situation. Good luck, let us know.
 
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